Removing cylinder head anode covers - DF140

[macedonia]

I just replaced the anodes located at the rectifier cover no problem.

But I'm having trouble removing the anode covers located on the cylinder head. The bolts come out fine but the covers have as yet not come loose.

Any ideas on the best safe way to remove these - I certainly don't want to break something.

An image of the anode covers is attached.

Thanks,
Nick

[jHydroman]

I used a small soft blow hammer and tapped to rotate the anode holder until I saw some separation from the block and used screw driver to pry loose. Make sure you have new gaskets.

Jim

[artdf175]

The proper way
insert and turning a 10 mm bolt will function as s screw jack
Art

[macedonia]

I tried the 10 mm bolt method today. It seemed to be taking a good bit of force with no movement. I also tried pulling on the 10mm bolt but the cover did not budged.

When using the bolt as a jack, just how much force can be used? If too much force could the smaller internal threads get damaged? Does the 10 mm bolt need to be stainless?

Thanks,
Nick

[artdf175]

I would go with stainless neon a bit softer metal if something gives it should be the bolt
It's holiday only be the gasket material that is stuck
Try penetrating oil overnight
As you torque the 10 mm bolt try tapping it lightly
It will come loose

[redlowrey]

I tried the 10 mm bolt method today. It seemed to be taking a good bit of force with no movement. I also tried pulling on the 10mm bolt but the cover did not budged.

When using the bolt as a jack, just how much force can be used? If too much force could the smaller internal threads get damaged? Does the 10 mm bolt need to be stainless?

Thanks,
Nick

You shouldn't need too much effort to break the seal unless there is a salt build up inside, make sure the bolt you are using is the right thread pitch eg 10x1.25 or 10x1.5 and you not are forcing the bolt into the thread. Make sure you replace the orings and use some oring lube, and Use a vacuum cleaner to suck the salt out of the port when you get it apart.

[macedonia]

The bolt I'm using is a 10mm x 1.25 x 20 (but not stainless. I'd need to order one).

I have the Suzuki specific o rings (as well as the anodes and gaskets).

Thank you for all the help. I'm new to this (obviously) so all the help is great.

More questions:

1. Could marine grease be used as the o ring lube or does it require something more specific?

2. I applied marine grease to the threads of the anode retaining bolt and anode cover bolts of the anodes on the rectifier cover. Is this an ok thing to do or should I remove it? I torqued the bolts per the Suzuki Service manual - 4.5 lbs

3. Should some sort of sealant be used on the gaskets used for the anode covers on the rectifier?

Thanks,
Nick

[artdf175]

Nick
There is probably a better O-ring lubricant than grease
Something better a lot of petroleum products are not good for rubber O-rings
The manual I have is silent on lubing the O-ring
It does recommend a silicon sealant on the outside of the securing bolt
Like Redlowery mentioned -clean out the opening good with a vacuum

A small amount of grease on the threads will not hurt anything
However #3
No would not recommend any sealant on the gaskets if you ever want to get them apart again

Art