Suzy Query

[Gremlin68]

I have an 85 Suzuki DT85, this motor has been a total pig now for 3 months, resisting all efforts to run, so started from top Replaced stator trigger power pack one coil, carbs rebuilt 3 times, after a thorough wiring check I found a couple crossed wires and the cow actually started, she had the wrong plugs so changed to what it should have, we did the impeller, it has no thermostat the old one had the guts knocked out of it, on the muffs do these creatures have a tell tale, the little rectangular hole just u der the lower cowl on the leg is this it? Coz ain’t nothing com8ng out of it, I have over the years dropped clr down the stat opening generally it’s ok, Coke works too, im trying to avoid knocking the head off it, this motor was used 8n the sea all its life, don’t want to cook it. Likely causes?

[Gremlin68]

Ok so I took the thermostat top off shove the hose down there plenty water out the prop
little bit coming out the hole in upper look, stick the hose in the front hole plenty out the prop but should it throw water out the top? On the side of the gear case bullet just behind the bearing case flange was some serious corrosion, I plugged this with metal epoxy putty thereblack sooty stuff slowly trickling, I just painted the motor in white so all these things stick out, maybe the box better come off, send it off see if the corrosion can be welded up,
what do I do guys, I think the head is flowing ok, I have a feeling the inside of the leg is filling with water, ive had a gutfull of this friggin motor but come too far now to give up

[Gremlin68]

At idle she’s belching grey smoke and 2 stroke oil dripping from prop, is this normal, bare in mind this motor hasn’t run in over two years

[Gremlin68]

I had to do a conversion on the control box, this boat is my mates first boatim the dumb shit what’s gotta get it going, so original control box missing the fast idle lever, had nothing in it, has omc cables adapted, I had an aftermarket twin stick throttle n gear shift I adapted it in got that working, replaced kill switch it now works! Stops starts etc, he bought it dirt cheap of a shiester who said I hadn’t used in two seasons but ran fine, man was a chronic masturbator, everything about it was dodger, it came with a siezed 87 dt85 as a spare so I’ve switched everything over, I mean everything, his 2 years was more likely 5 or 10 years, anyways I’ve got it running uptop! Now to sort cooling issues! I think this thing has a problem with water, I thinks down stairs, the water pipe to pump might be dislodged. I’m gonna dump the box to oz and suss it all out.

[Gremlin68]

The ski boat shifter

[Solarman]

Try to use one thread for all your problems. It is hard enough reading multiple threads for the same motor and, most of all the problems relate together, to tell a full story about a motor. Also, we don't always answer different threads.

Thanks.

[Gremlin68]

How do you shift a stuck bearing cage in the gearbox, the prop seals shot and the case needs a repair, the bugger is just not playing the game, im heating it , beating it as much as I dare, I don’t have a puller, 8ve done them before by tapping a chisel around the edge until they break free

[Solarman]

I'm not sure what you are trying to work on? Are you trying to free the prop seal, to remove the gear assy, or free the shift rod to change gears?

Good luck ,post back when able .

[Gremlin68]

Ok Solarman it’s like this, the bullet of the gearbox has a crack from the bearing cage flange to about 5 inches along the centre line of the bullet. This has to be tig welded, I wanted to remove the bearing cage for the following reason
the shaft seal needs doing.
the repair is easier with cage out.
id like to wash out and clean the case out.

The water pump impeller somehow has spat the key , it’s only a new impeller. So I have stripped scrubbed all the bits related to the pump, the entire gear box will be scrubbed with kero later today, I’ll rod out all the little vent holes that dot the Zuki gear case, the plastic inlet under the anti cav plate won’t come out the screw is solidly stuck , I’ll reverse flush some clr down it and the intakes on the bullet have been cleaned out, vents pulled off, this leg is gonna be cleaned like no other leg in Suzuki history lol, if I could fit it in the dish washer I would, might fit if the shafts were taken out first.

[Gremlin68]

Heres the damage

[Gremlin68]

I’ve degreased it inside out, poked all the vent holes clear, I’ll have to make a gizmo to try pull the cage out using my puller I guess maybe some threaded rod, see how that goes, I can change the prop shaft seal with the cage in, the crack on the bullet at most it’s only exhaust that might blow out, the gear oil was clean, I’ll try some plumbers solder using MAP gas instead of butane, if that will do the job it might work, ive told the owner the box is salty and will need replacing sooner or later, if I can get it pumping water and shifting gears he can use it this year and we will find another gearbox next year, im over this motor and the boat.

[Solarman]

That crack should be heli-arc welded. Yes it is probably only into exhaust channel, but if having to remove prop seal-housing, then spend the extra few dollars for proper weld repair. You do need to use a puller for that housing, because those seals are tight and old/stuck. Do not remove the prop shaft for the welding, just the prop shaft seal-housing. If there isn't any metal shavings, particles, pieces in the gear lube of significant size (just normal wear size), leave the transmission (shaft and gears) in. Check if shifter/ clutch rod will move? If still not moving, you may have to pull the driveshaft housing plate (under water pump) to free up clutch rod? Do this work before removing prop seal-housing and welding. Otherwise the entire transmission may have to be removed/rebuilt/replaced?

Once crack is welded, and ground properly, use new seals, o'rings, any other worn parts in seal-housing, then reinstall.

Good luck, post back when able to let us know how it went.