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2011 df175 power trim motor bad

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  • 2011 df175 power trim motor bad

    checked the relays and everything. the trim motor gets power, but doesn't move. Brand new one is about $500. Are there any other options or places that repair them?

  • #2
    A place that rebuilds starters and alternators.

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    • #3
      I had the exact same problem with a 2011 175DF trim motor (still have engine/boat/motor). When I was replacing it with an aftermarket I found for $200 (which literally looked identical in every way) I was starting to take it off and I it it with a rubber mallet and the dang thing started working. Did not work well but it would trim down (not up). I replaced it with the new one and took the original apart which is really easy. Inside, the thing was "pristine"... but when I pulled the motor from the housing I noticed that one of the "brushes" was stuck. For whatever reason the spring could not push the brush out etc. I pulled it out easily with a small screw driver, hosed it down with corrosion X (did not have corrosion, just to clean it out completely)... but it back together... and the dang thing worked perfectly.

      So... I would take that baby off (4 screws that are a PITA to get out) and 2 wires. Bench test it on a battery. If does not move, take her apart and see if there is a brush that is stuck. If you can pull out, clean, and put back together I think you will get "years" more life out if it. Wish I had done the bench testing and inspection before I bought the new one.

      Hope this helps.

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      • #4
        yep, one of my brushes was stuck also. I am going to test it tomorrow

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        • #5
          Originally posted by captaingrubby View Post
          I had the exact same problem with a 2011 175DF trim motor (still have engine/boat/motor). When I was replacing it with an aftermarket I found for $200 (which literally looked identical in every way) I was starting to take it off and I it it with a rubber mallet and the dang thing started working. Did not work well but it would trim down (not up). I replaced it with the new one and took the original apart which is really easy. Inside, the thing was "pristine"... but when I pulled the motor from the housing I noticed that one of the "brushes" was stuck. For whatever reason the spring could not push the brush out etc. I pulled it out easily with a small screw driver, hosed it down with corrosion X (did not have corrosion, just to clean it out completely)... but it back together... and the dang thing worked perfectly.

          So... I would take that baby off (4 screws that are a PITA to get out) and 2 wires. Bench test it on a battery. If does not move, take her apart and see if there is a brush that is stuck. If you can pull out, clean, and put back together I think you will get "years" more life out if it. Wish I had done the bench testing and inspection before I bought the new one.

          Hope this helps.
          how did you connect the aftermarket one to the relay? My aftermarket one has different wire terminals, and I'm trying to find the ones that go into the plug that plugs into the relay.

          Comment


          • #6
            just a suggestion if you get to a point you need a trim unit: I bought a 175 DF with a totally corroded to useless T/T unit. I didn't want to spend the $3200 for a new one. I looked at the T/T unit on my blown up Evinrude, it looked the same. I measured it and everything on it was identical except the wire ends and the top tilt ram hole diameter. I changed the wire ends, went to a scrap yard, found a stainless table leg .050 thick the same i.d. as the Suzuki pin, and cut a length off and use it for a bushing. Total cost, about $10.00.

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