checked the relays and everything. the trim motor gets power, but doesn't move. Brand new one is about $500. Are there any other options or places that repair them?
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2011 df175 power trim motor bad
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I had the exact same problem with a 2011 175DF trim motor (still have engine/boat/motor). When I was replacing it with an aftermarket I found for $200 (which literally looked identical in every way) I was starting to take it off and I it it with a rubber mallet and the dang thing started working. Did not work well but it would trim down (not up). I replaced it with the new one and took the original apart which is really easy. Inside, the thing was "pristine"... but when I pulled the motor from the housing I noticed that one of the "brushes" was stuck. For whatever reason the spring could not push the brush out etc. I pulled it out easily with a small screw driver, hosed it down with corrosion X (did not have corrosion, just to clean it out completely)... but it back together... and the dang thing worked perfectly.
So... I would take that baby off (4 screws that are a PITA to get out) and 2 wires. Bench test it on a battery. If does not move, take her apart and see if there is a brush that is stuck. If you can pull out, clean, and put back together I think you will get "years" more life out if it. Wish I had done the bench testing and inspection before I bought the new one.
Hope this helps.
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Originally posted by captaingrubby View PostI had the exact same problem with a 2011 175DF trim motor (still have engine/boat/motor). When I was replacing it with an aftermarket I found for $200 (which literally looked identical in every way) I was starting to take it off and I it it with a rubber mallet and the dang thing started working. Did not work well but it would trim down (not up). I replaced it with the new one and took the original apart which is really easy. Inside, the thing was "pristine"... but when I pulled the motor from the housing I noticed that one of the "brushes" was stuck. For whatever reason the spring could not push the brush out etc. I pulled it out easily with a small screw driver, hosed it down with corrosion X (did not have corrosion, just to clean it out completely)... but it back together... and the dang thing worked perfectly.
So... I would take that baby off (4 screws that are a PITA to get out) and 2 wires. Bench test it on a battery. If does not move, take her apart and see if there is a brush that is stuck. If you can pull out, clean, and put back together I think you will get "years" more life out if it. Wish I had done the bench testing and inspection before I bought the new one.
Hope this helps.
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just a suggestion if you get to a point you need a trim unit: I bought a 175 DF with a totally corroded to useless T/T unit. I didn't want to spend the $3200 for a new one. I looked at the T/T unit on my blown up Evinrude, it looked the same. I measured it and everything on it was identical except the wire ends and the top tilt ram hole diameter. I changed the wire ends, went to a scrap yard, found a stainless table leg .050 thick the same i.d. as the Suzuki pin, and cut a length off and use it for a bushing. Total cost, about $10.00.
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