Suzuki oil filter

[Moonlighter]

Let us know what you find.

BTW i was not suggesting filling the filter before reinstalling, I was simply stating that running the motor AFTER changing the filter and refilling the engine with oil is normal practice - the new filter gets pumped full of oil in that process and you then recheck the oil levels to make sure they are correct.

[ChrigelKarrer]

Well,
i just changed oils and filters of my DF200 and twin DF300AP.
The original Suzuki oil filter is part N°16510-96J00 and has no anti drain back valve.
Also in the minutes between draining the oil, screwing on the oil plug and unscrewing the oil filter, the filter was completely empty.

This comes handy as there is virtually no spill and putting a terry towel or a absorbent paper below ther is no mess with oil spilled everywhere.
Theoretically it would be better if a electric driven oil pump will first inject oil on the to lubricate and after a delay of +/- 5 seconds the engine would crank whe all places are flooded with oil,
but i am not really sure if this would prolong the engines life considrable.

As Suzukis are known for engines they last (at least) long as other ones i believe that it is ok like this.

Chris

[Lostsoul58]

Well,
i just changed oils and filters of my DF200 and twin DF300AP.
The original Suzuki oil filter is part N°16510-96J00 and has no anti drain back valve.
Also in the minutes between draining the oil, screwing on the oil plug and unscrewing the oil filter, the filter was completely empty.

This comes handy as there is virtually no spill and putting a terry towel or a absorbent paper below ther is no mess with oil spilled everywhere.
Theoretically it would be better if a electric driven oil pump will first inject oil on the to lubricate and after a delay of +/- 5 seconds the engine would crank whe all places are flooded with oil,
but i am not really sure if this would prolong the engines life considrable.

As Suzukis are known for engines they last (at least) long as other ones i believe that it is ok like this.

Chris

I'm dealing with the oil light issue. Used a NAPA (Wix)7145 filter. I think it has a nitril drain back valve. Maybe that's my pressure problem. Ordering Suzuki filters now!

[Moonlighter]

Be extremely careful using after-market oil filters!

We have seen several cases of aftermarket filters designed for cars having catastrophic issues when used on Suzuki outboards.

The biggest proven issue is a very slightly different shape in the filter case where the filter attaches to the engine. This causes the rim of the filter to ground out on the engine block before the seal on the filter mates firmly enough with the mating surface on the engine.

The result is that the filter "feels" like it has been properly tightened onto the engine when it in fact it hasn't been.

As a result several filters have spun off under pressure or the seal has developed a sudden major leakage. All the oil in the engine is very rapidly pumped out of the engine. Alarms of course are triggered but by the time you back off the throttle, most of the oil is gone. Then you are stuck miles from home with an engine with no oil in it.

Most cases the failsafe systems in the engine saves the day by preventing a major detonation, but it isnt good for the engine or environment.

I stick with the OEM filters.

[bigdude2468]

Well,
i just changed oils and filters of my DF200 and twin DF300AP.
The original Suzuki oil filter is part N°16510-96J00 and has no anti drain back valve.
Also in the minutes between draining the oil, screwing on the oil plug and unscrewing the oil filter, the filter was completely empty.

This comes handy as there is virtually no spill and putting a terry towel or a absorbent paper below ther is no mess with oil spilled everywhere.
Theoretically it would be better if a electric driven oil pump will first inject oil on the to lubricate and after a delay of +/- 5 seconds the engine would crank whe all places are flooded with oil,
but i am not really sure if this would prolong the engines life considrable.

As Suzukis are known for engines they last (at least) long as other ones i believe that it is ok like this.

Chris

I don't buy it. The "mess" created by oil in the Suzuki filter is not any worse than when changing oil on my vehicles. I am unaware of any automotive filter that does not have an anti-drainback valve. If it did not have any benefit why do all of the filters have them?

[ChrigelKarrer]

As far i remember Yamaha, Honda outboards don't have any visible (i never cut them open) drain-back valves either.
I worked for years in a ship yard where we did also some cars during wintertime and i can't remeber that oil filters had anti drain-back valves, but that was in 1996-2004.

Chris

[bigdude2468]

As I said if you go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" and their filter tab every filter imaginable gets cut open, they all have ADBV's. I also do not think this is anything new. I just checked a Mobil 1 filter on my shelf and they have it as does a K&N I have. The K&N came in an oil & filter special, I would never buy a K&N filter on its own.

[Auburn02]

Also in the minutes between draining the oil, screwing on the oil plug and unscrewing the oil filter, the filter was completely empty.

Can't say this has ever been my experience. After running the engine to warm the oil, then draining for 5-10 minutes, I have always had a mess on my hands when I remove the (Suzuki) filter. Not only dripping down from the filter being horizontal, but after removing I place the filter inverted on my drain pan and a significant amount continues to drain from the filter.

Mysterious.

[ChrigelKarrer]

After running the engine to warm the oil, then draining for 5-10 minutes, I have always had a mess on my hands when I remove the (Suzuki) filter.

That is the reason that i wait for 30 minutes after the engine was running to let the oil drain back in the oil pan and to not burn my with hot oil.
I prefer to winterize my engines with new oil in it and for this reason i first change the oil and filter and then i run them in a drum of fresh water.

To be honest, in the places i live and my boats are, it's not necessary to run the engine before changing oil as the outside temperatures are above 80° and this makes the oil enough fluid to drain reasonable fast.

As I said if you go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" and their filter tab every filter imaginable gets cut open

As i could not find the FILTERS Tab, did they cut open also Yamaha, Honda, Mercury and Suzuki outboard filters?

Chris

[Auburn02]

That is the reason that i wait for 30 minutes after the engine was running to let the oil drain back in the oil pan and to not burn my with hot oil.

Ah, I gotcha. You had said "in the minutes between draining the oil, screwing on the oil plug and unscrewing the oil filter, the filter was completely empty" so I was equating that to the 5-10 minutes it typically takes to drain out the oil, but can't say I've ever allowed it to sit for 30 before pulling the filter. Had I done that I might have experienced the dry filter. Next time I'll test that.

[ChrigelKarrer]

Exactly!
Warm the engine up if necessary, stop it and wait to cool down and that the oil drains back in the pan and THEN unscrew the oil filter.
You will experience much less mess!
Chris

[bigdude2468]

Fram has oil filters for my DF 115 with an ADBV, that is going to be what I use in the future.

[Harper]

I've used Amsoil synthetic lubes and filters since the mid-70s on everything I own. Their EA15K09 is the filter listed for the DF150. Here's what they claim on their website:

"AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters are made with premium-grade full-synthetic media.

The strictly controlled processing of this media ensures accurate filter construction and is what allows Ea Oil Filters to deliver higher capacity and efficiency along with better durability.

Ea Oil Filters' full-synthetic media technology is resin-free to resist degradation from hot oil. It uses a wire screen backing that is pleated with the media for superior strength. Ea Oil Filters are constructed with HNBR gaskets that are fully tested to extreme distances in numerous severe environments. They feature fully tucked seams, a molded element seal, roll-formed threads and a long-lasting, premium-grade silicone anti-drainback valve."


I do make a mess removing the filter.

[ChrigelKarrer]

I changed yesterday the oil and filtetr on my DF200.
There was a non Suzuki oil filter mounted and when i unscrewed it there where 10 drops coming out.
Afther this tread i checked the presence of a anti drain-back valve and surprisingly there was a black rubber valve inside.
I haven't run the engines for 3 days and the filter was empty what basically means that this particular valve is not working and leaves me the doubth that the others don't work as suggested and the oil will drain slowly and empty the filter after some days.

Thinking the last days about this problem i got some toughts:

- i am not sure if the 8 liter of oil is all stored in the oil pan or if some of this amount of oil raises and fills also the oil filter.
- I believe that the filters don't have a anty drain-back valve to avoid to make a mess while changing the filters just after running the engine.
Car engine filters are mostly in a position where you put a drain pan below and the oil drom the filter drains in there, while on a outboard the oil filter is nestled inside the engine and cowling.

If someone here would like to do a test regarding this matter i suggest to do two tests:

1° unscrew the oil filter a bit without having the oil drained to see where the oillevel is. If no oil is flowing out then the oil level is lower and this also means that the filter could be changed without draining the oil.
2° unscrew the antis drain-back valve equiped oilfilter after 2 or 3 days to see if there is still oil in it to verify if the anti drain-back valve works and does his job.

Chris