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My 2005 stroke DF140 stalls after I Bring it down to Idle after cruising. The overheat alerts which makes sense since the stall stops water circulation. I can start up and after fast idling the overheat alarm goes off. My thoughts are that this is not an over heat issue but a stalling issue. Can anyone point me in the right direction. This is an intermittent issue, I cannot reproduce issue every time.
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I've been searching for someone else having the same issue. I hope someone here can help me find the answer. I too am having this intermittent issue on an '07 DF140. I've found that it tends to happen more frequently if I come out of cruising down to idle too quickly. If I ease it down, it doesn't happen.
Mine does the same...down to idle, engine cuts, steady overtemp alarm and a steady temp light on the tachometer. All I have to do is turn the key off, give a couple of potatoes and it cranks right back up, no problems. It's so infrequent that I haven't really been able to think anything of it other than it being an anomaly. Moreso, I'd just like to know if it's pointing to a future bigger problem.
EDIT: I've already swapped the plug on the engine holder with an aluminum plug. I found out this was an issue that day after I bought the boat. Fortunately, I had no corrosion. -
Hi guys
That certainly is a strange issue.
Look, it might be a long shot, but my regular fishing buddy has a US made boat and a year or two ago his DF300 started doing something similar, except no overheating. Cruise along, pull back to idle, and it would stall.
We did some digging and someone pointed us to the anti-syphon valve on the fuel tank. Apparently a well known issue. The valve partially fails and restricts fuel flow, at revs the engines fuel pump overcomes it but at idle it simply closes up and starves out the motor of fuel and it stalls almost immediately.
We solved the issue by simply removing the valve (part of the fuel hose barb which is the outlet from the tank), and took it to the workbench and punched out the tiny ball, seat and spring inside it that makes up the valve.
Then we reinstalled the barb to the top of the tank, reconnected the fuel hose and all was good.
This may not be your problem, but ..... Its a easy and inexpensive thing to do, if it doesnt solve the problem nothing has been lost. The anti-syphon valve is only a requirement for inboard powered boats, but not for outboards so isnt needed anyway. US built boats seem to be fitted with them as standard.
Good luck!Last edited by Moonlighter; 05-05-2016, 05:10 AM.Comment
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As Joseph said above, I think the overheat issue is due to the key still being in the on position when the engine stalls. Typically, mine will stall out abruptly and then I get the overheat light and alarm a couple seconds later. Otherwise, the engine idles fine and seems to be pumping water fine, in the water and on the hose. I've noticed mine only stalling when I come out of cruise to neutral or idle too quickly.
It happened twice yesterday, both times when I came out of cruise too quickly.Comment
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DF 140 Stalls
First thing to check is the IAC solenoid, in short one of its duties is to prevent the engine from stalling when decelerating.The ECM controls the duty cycle signal of the IAC valve to regulate a portion of the intake air flow to the intake manifoldComment
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Through further research on this site and others, that was going to be the first thing I was going to check. The part is pretty expensive but I also read some places that it just might need to be cleaned. Any ideas on what to use to clean it? Brake or Carb cleaner or something less abrasive?Comment
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There was a similar thread not too long ago on this subject
There is nothing in the book for recommended cleaner
However my thought is a cleaner that leaves no residue this is an air passage
You don't want to leave behind something that will gum it up
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DF 140 Stalls
I went to my local Suzuki Auto wrecker, and took one off a 2.0 liter suzuki sierra for $50. Still going strong.Comment
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