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I'll try and be as detailed as I can. About 2 years ago my engine stalled out of the blue. It started right back up but kept stalling shortly there after until it ran great the rest of the weekend. Nearly every time since then it would do the exact same thing. I researched on line forums and most led me to fuel line and vacuum problems. I replaced all the fuel lines, filters and squeeze ball and also hooked up a temporary tank with fresh gas to rule that out. Didn't fix the problem. I didn't want to take an intermittent issue to a dealer just so they couldn't replicate the problem. So I continued to deal with the issue, as it has always started right back up until earlier this summer. One time I couldn't get it started for about a half hour. I would turn the key and everything turned over as normal, it just wouldn't start. After that half hour I heard fuel (after turning the key, not all the way) being, sent to what I think is the Cylinder head. (about a 3 second short burst of fuel, being injected or sent). It started up and ran fine the rest of the day. These same scenarios happen just about every time I take the boat out.I do want to add, normally when the key is turned prior to starting , I get the usual 2 to 3 second beep) then I start it.. One time, after stalling and the engine not starting back up, I got a very short beep and it wouldn't turn over. I found a 60amp slow blow fuse that was blown and replaced it with the spare that was fortunately there. As soon as I replaced the fuse I hear the fuel again being drawn into the cylinder head? Again it started right up. Now this past weekend the same thing happened except the fuse wasn't blown, but what I did do is remover the fuse and jump it out (with out trying to start it) as soon as I touched the 2 terminals, I again heard gas being pumped. I put the fuse back in and it ran fine until I got back to the dock. I know this is a lot, but does anyone have any idea what could possibly be going on. Unfortunately, there aren't any Suzuki marine service shops near me and Id hate to drive to one, and the problem doesn't happen.
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Mick
here are a couple of things your comments bring to mind
replacing the fuel lines and fuel bulb eliminate many problems - go back and make sure all connections are tight
water/fuel filter? replaced every 100 hours/yearly?
checked the inline fuel filter pre low pressure fuel pump? make sure it is clean
when you start the engine - make sure you wait until the beeps stop 3-4 seconds
what you hear is the high pressure fuel pump pressurizing the fuel rail
have you checked the high pressure fuel filter?
and would suggest getting a copy of the full service manual
and replace the spare fuse just in case it blows again
Art
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Art - is this possibly sounding like a white wire issue to you? No power to ecu = no fuel pump pressuring up when key is turned on?? And the main fuse blowing. - points to electrical problem?Originally posted by artdf175 View Post
May be worthComment
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Solarman maybe
Mick you said:
One time I couldn't get it started for about a half hour. I would turn the key and everything turned over as normal, it just wouldn't start. After that half hour I heard fuel (after turning the key, not all the way) being, sent to what I think is the Cylinder head. (about a 3 second
you turn the key on -assume you did not hear the beeps and fuel pump kicking in- but the engine turned over but would not start
has the engine starter ever failed to turn it over?
does any of the electronics fail to turn on when you put the key on the -on- position?
the other thing I am thinking about is the ignition key itself failing
Art
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Art,
The time it wouldn't start for a half hour, it did turn over, just wouldn't start. That was the day I noticed the high pressure fuel pump pressurizing. It started right after that. Since then, sometimes it starts right after stalling and other times I have to wait until I hear it pressurizing. Basically, sometimes it pressurizes(right after stalling) and sometimes it doesn't (takes a bit of time). But the new thing that happened was turning the key and getting a very short beep, then nothing happens when I turn the key, which led me to finding the main fuse blown. Last time out I ran into the same problem but the fuse wasn't blown. I did take it out and just bypass the fuse for a moment and heard gas being moved, But it didn't sound like the high pressure end, more on the low. I did put the fuse back in and it started up again and ran fine until I got back to the ramp. Can't stand intermittent problems, frustrated the living heck out of me!!Comment
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read the sticky I did on the “white wire” problem
this wire powers the ECM and any interruption in power shuts everything down
The ECM needs full voltage
make sure your batteries are good and fully charged if they are getting close to the end of their life span replace them
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Thanks again Art. I replaced the batteries earlier this year , thinking they could be part of the problem, but to no avail. But I did start tracing the white wire for corrosion at the bullet connector and all other connections. I did notice on all my terminals to the batter that there was some corrosion. Cleaned off all the terminals on both batteries. I'll continue to look for any other wires that may have corrosion or are not connected properly. I'll get the boat out this weekend on the water and see if this helped. I do believe I have a bad ground somewhere, because my fuel gauge has been reading empty for a long time as well. Not sure if these two problems are related. The resistance on the float is within spec. so I know it's not that. Anyway, like I said, I'll spend the afternoon tracing all my wires and try to tighten up anything I find bad. I'll let ya know how it went after I get her out.
MickComment
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for your tach - check the power to the dash
it should be getting power from a common power source for your instruments
grounding - yes that can be difficult - I found a corroded up bar last year for the first time hidden under the shelf holding the battery mind you I have had the boat for over 10 years
if you start chasing the ground wires you should run across it
ArtComment
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Good Afternoon,
I need to ask if this condition was ever resolved as i presently have a similar condition with a 2011 DF 150 with less than 200 hrs.
Engine starts and runs fine for 10 mins or so at say 4000 rpm then stalls. It will sometimes start right back up only to stall again thereafter. If it doesn't start, turning the key on doesn't give the full start up sequence with the multi gauge lights, hour indication, or the fuel pump pressurizing like normal. Letting the engine sit for 30 mins usually allows the engine to return to normal and start up without issue
Please let me know if you were able to resolve
Thanks
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So i took a leap of faith and bought a electric fuel pump to allow me to rule out vapor lock issues with the motor, which it did. A small Carter pump kept the primer bulb fully charged, yet at about 20 mins of 3500 - 4000 rpm boating, a single warning light/buzzer as the engine quit. Engine started right back up so i decided to coast in at about 2000 rpm in lieu of the kicker.
Will start my own post but what had been described in the original post is too similar not to discount that it seems to be the same problemComment
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Any resolutions, Blackhull?Comment
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Corrosion in white wire, then it gets hot the longer its running....Originally posted by blackhull View Post
I would be looking at that white wire, and/or at the main harness from engine to dash/controls more generally. A damaged wire from rubbing or corrosion in a plug or join perhaps.Comment
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I have a similar problem 2003 DF115. First stalled while trolling. Started up again without issue. did it about 4 times over a couple days of fishing . Then noticed I could use inline primer bulb when I heard the engine starting to sputter.and it would "perk up again. An "expert " suggested getting rid of the primer bulb thinking that it may be creating my issues.which when I did, noticed that it had a small leak.. Fast forward to yesterday thinking I had solved the problem it first died at a low idle speed. Restarted fine . Then died at a higher rpm and wouldn't restart. thankfully had a primer bulb on another line that I could take off and use up stream of my main filter and pumped until firm (lots) and the engine started fine and got us back to port. Thinking it may be the low pressure fuel pump?? Would appreciate some feed back?? I have 2 fuel tanks and didn't seem to make a difference which one I was drawing out of.Last edited by saddlemaker; 07-15-2020, 10:34 AM.Comment
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hopefully found my issue... A leak in the fuel line close to the filter under the injector rail.Comment
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OK Guys I'm Back. I"m still having problems with the engine cutting off out of nowhere. No specific RPMs, it happens anytime. But something new happened the last two times out. The engine still shuts off out of the blue. I turn the key and get a short beep, and if I leave the key in that position eventually I get the normal longer beep which lets me know I can start. Also, (this is the new part) I'm now sometimes getting a short beep but when the longer beep starts, it's very broken and sometimes revert back to a shorter one. Like I have a bad connection somewhere. But after time, it goes right back to normal. I"m not running in rough water and sometimes I'm at a stand still. I messed around with the starter wires, but they are encapsulated and checked the kill switch wires as well, just shaking them to see if the connection was bad there as well. Sat in the water for about 30 minutes, contemplating a call to Seat tow, then low and behold, I god a steady long beep the engine kept running and I was off to the dock without a problem. I"m still afraid to take it to a shop knowing full well the damn problem wont happen when they look at it, and unfortunately the drive to the closest shop is an hour and a half away. FRUSTRATING!!!!!!!!!Comment
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