Many problems related to waterpump with my DF15 year 2009

[pmaru77]

I've melted several waterpumps due to improper water cooling when flushing. I think once my biggest booboo was not taking off the ducttape from the horizontal inlet. Also trying to get ducttape to stick well enuf to use the flush fitting. One time out in the water, I did not check the pisser until it was too late and the motor overheated pretty badly. Luckily I had company and they towed me in. Since that first "meltdown" and I mean meltdown, I've had several waterpumps seize up or melt and not function properly. That horizontal inlet is just killing me. I'm going to try to make a clamping system that will plug the inlet so I can flush with the hose fitting. Putting the whole bottom end of the motor in a tank is just wasting too much water here in Calif. and in Baja. I tried to flush in a 5 gallon bucket where the cavitation plate was covered with water about 2 or 3 inches up from the plate and that failed to draw water in and melted another waterpump. It only takes a few seconds to ruin an impeller. Not only that, the cup and housing has to be relpaced. Anyone know what I'm going through?

[artdf175]

paying attention to details would be helpful

you should have water out the pee hole within 20 seconds
never run faster than an idle on a hose and there is a good chance the water flow is not sufficient

you should go to a dealer and get the proper muffs to use for your engine. in some cases it is not a “one size fits all”

when you replace the impellor buy the whole kit and gaskets.

do you have the service manual for your engine? very important to follow the step by step directions on replacing parts

do you have any fresh water lakes/rivers/ponds nearby ??? good places to run and flush motors

no longer than 30 seconds without water out the pee tube
Art

[pmaru77]

[QUOTE=artdf175;n49265]paying attention to details would be helpful

I'm not sure where you are going with that comment.

you should have water out the pee hole within 20 seconds
never run faster than an idle on a hose and there is a good chance the water flow is not sufficient

20 seconds seems like way too long.

you should go to a dealer and get the proper muffs to use for your engine. in some cases it is not a “one size fits all”

last time I checked, they had no "muffs" for that type of inlet. They had a fitting that I bought and followed directions "using duct tape" to cover the cooling inlet

when you replace the impellor buy the whole kit and gaskets.

I do that, but I feel it is not necessary if gaskets are in fine condition

do you have the service manual for your engine? very important to follow the step by step directions on replacing parts

You seem to imply that I am not re-assembling the parts correctly.


do you have any fresh water lakes/rivers/ponds nearby ??? good places to run and flush motors

I would think that filling a 15 gallon barrel with water would be much easier than going to a lake every time.

no longer than 30 seconds without water out the pee tube

I still think that is too long a time to wait.


I'm looking for someone that has the same cooling design that my Suzi has. A horizontal inlet DF15 or other

What do you have Art?

I personally think it's somewhat ridiculous that the mfgr would tell the owner to put duck tape on to cover the cooling inlet while flushing with their special hose fitting.

[artdf175]

where is this “hose fitting” located on you motor? and are you running the engine while using this water flushing port?
attach a photo

[Solarman]

If you're flushing through the hose fitting at the powerhead, you should not run the motor"." The manufacturer installed those fittings to flush powerheads without running motor (if your motor has this?), use this if available.

You could use a taller container (13 gallon kitchen trash can), might be perfect size, but don't use forward or reverse gears.

I try to tell everyone, that these impellers must be wet anytime the motor is turned over, by starter or pull cord. It only takes a few seconds to ruin the impeller if dry.

Do what you must to flush.

Good luck, post back when able to let us know what you do.

[Murray]

Very clear in my owners manual that you are not to run the engine when using the garden hose connectors.

[pmaru77]

I'm going to quote what is in my SUZUKI DF15 Owner's Manual...........

page 52

1. Shift into "NEUTRAL" and remove the propeller.
2. Remove flush plug and install the flushing attachment. Plug the water intake hole with a piece of duct tape.
3. Connect a garden hose to the flushing attachment and turn the water on to obtain a good water flow.
4. Start the motor and let it idle for about five minutes. This will clean the salt water out of the cooling system.
5. Stop the motor and then turn off the water. Be sure to stop the motor first.
6. reinstall the flush plug and remove the duct tape from the water inlet hole.
7. Clean the motor surface and apply a coat of automotive wax on the external finish of the motor.

There it is, right out of my manual.
First off, why take off the prop? You are in neutral. Also who the f wants to take a prop off every trip?
Also no7 clean and wax the motor finish, nice addition but nothing to do with flushing.
When they say intake hole, the refer to the horizontal intake grill under the cavitation plate. Also the flushing attachment is a threaded fitting (male) that screws into the motor and has a tube with a hose fitting.

Let me add that I'm on my 4th boat, the previous 3 were Yamaha motors 25 hp, 115 hp, and 200 hp and never had to replace the impeller, but did once.

[Murray]

Pulling the prop. off is Suzuki’s way of covering their a$$. If Suzuki didn’t call for prop. removal and you cut your foot off you can’t come back on Suzuki and sue them. Sound like your following the manual but you shouldn’t be burning out impellers like you are, something else going on with your water pump, maybe the base plate is not 100% flat?? Are you changing just the impeller or the entire water punp assembly?
To me the water intake is on your lower unit below the cavitation plate, it will have a grate/screen to prevent debris getting in. The flush port has threads that will accommodate a standard garden hose. On my engine both flush ports are ABOVE the water intake. I can’t see how I can lubricate the impeller trying to force water against the direction that it is designed to flow.
The wax is to help with corrosion and make your Suzuki look pretty.

[Moonlighter]

Your own evidence strongly suggests that something is not being done right, and it is likely to be contributing to burnt out impellers.

Perhaps not enough water pressure?

When you flush using the manual’s method, do you get a good strong flow from the pee tube almost instantly when engine is started? Like in this video??

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RaeiAmyOZtw

As an alternative, I would try flushing (and is usually easy on a small 10hp motor,) I would put the leg in a drum of water so it is submerged at least 4” above the anti-vent plate.

[pmaru77]

Your own evidence strongly suggests that something is not being done right, and it is likely to be contributing to burnt out impellers.

Perhaps not enough water pressure?

When you flush using the manual’s method, do you get a good strong flow from the pee tube almost instantly when engine is started? Like in this video??

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RaeiAmyOZtw

As an alternative, I would try flushing (and is usually easy on a small 10hp motor,) I would put the leg in a drum of water so it is submerged at least 4” above the anti-vent plate.

You are correct sir. Unless I completely shut off the inlet on the bottom of the cavitation plate, the hose/fitting just does not work. Any leakage on that inlet vent does not allow the hose water to do the job.
also I have come to the conclusion that the best and only way to flush without any danger is to use a tank (which I do when home) and fill it high enuf that the cavitation plate is well covered, but I use the water pump location to ensure that the tank is filled so that the water pump is fully submerged. Doing that it pisses like a teenager.

The main reason for making this post is to see if anyone with this water pump/inlet port design has experienced the same problems, or if they were smart enuf to get it right the first time and last and anywhere in between. The duct tape over the inlet vent just seems like a shoddy way of doing business. When I did do the tape trick, it really never stuck good enuf and leaked too much. Besides, I mentioned that I forgot to take the tape off one time, as you cannot see it unless you are laying on the ground.

My only way I will flush now is with a tank and the pump submerged. But I have to take off the Dolfin wings to get the bottom end in the tank I have. And I do not want to use even a larger tank.

My future goal is to figure out a contraption that seals the cooling inlet and is useable when the fins are on the cav. plate. If I can seal it 100% then I feel that the hose flush will work properly. In actuality I believe the pisser will show flow by just turning on the hose without starting the motor.

So I need to design a clamping system with a rubber seal to shut down the cooling inlet. Wish someone had already done that.

Am I crazy to think that a mfgr is wrong to tell people to use duct tape on the inlet while flushing?

[Solarman]

Why not just flush using the hose fitting for the powerhead - not running motor, and don't worry about the rest of the motor those times, and when at home use the tank to flush the rest. The critical flush area is the powerhead, and exhaust exit areas, which the hose fitting works good for. The hose fitting will do a good enough job, and once every 6-12 months, run it in the tank with a little vinegar.

Good luck, post back when able.

[pmaru77]

Ok, so I initially posted this situation to see if anyone had a DF15 or similar Suzi that has the water intake horizontally and under the anti ventilation plate (cavitation plate), and I guess the answer is no.
I've decided to flush with a 15 gallon barrel of water and then use the water to irrigate the yard. I do have to take off the "wings" fro the cav plate in order to fit the prop etc into the barrel. This assures that the pump is getting water, as the pump is fully submerged. It take about 4 to 6 inches of water above the plate to feel safe.

I've been testing mileage on my rig, as I plan a long range trip where I need to know how far I can get before needing gas. The last two trips I have taken locally are about 25 miles, and I burned less than 2 gallons of gas. The last trip I put the wings back on and ended up going 26 miles on 1.75 gallons. that is with a bunch of ice and a 230 lb passanger, (not my wife) so I'm pretty happy about that. that's about 14 mpg. and the sea was ruff.

FYI: I should have been concerned right from the start that when a mfgr tells you to put duct tape over the water inlet when flushing the motor, when using the flush fitting (right next to the water pump). Duct tape? really?