Suzuki DF 150 running in,help

[ri_biker]

Hello everybody

Recently I became proud Suzuki DF 150 owner. The engine is brand new and I’m awaiting boat to come. After the engine will be mounted on the boat I will have to do running in as per owners manual. Procedure is well explained.
Here my doubt is starting. Which oil to use?
Manual is clearly stating that oil of 10W40 should be used for that engine. Part which is not clear is should we use mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic oil?
Advantages of synthetic over mineral oils are very clear.
But, if you go deeper in any 4-stroke engine running in procedure you will find that all engine manufacturers recommend to use mineral instead of synthetic oil for that running in time. Synthetic oils are more “lubricant”, which is not good during running in period and piston rings/cylinder liner adjustment.
It might seem to some people that I’m overreacting, but on the other hand first couple of hours/miles is most important for life and performance of all engines.
Somebody has any experience?
Please advice and thanks in advance.

[briscoe]

no substitute for synthetic

My goodness you'll see that running under 3500 rpm's (?) for the first ten hours (where you can't plane) is much more difficult than choosing oils.

I use Mobil 1 10W40 extra mileage (fully synthetic), which is the only M1 that is 10Wx40. It Exceeds all Suzuki requirements for motor oil

Your concern should be for the lower unit, where you should not use anything under 85W90 in a GL5, not just any synthetic here. And Stay Away from AMSOIL! Their 75W90 is supposed to be GL5. Oh no grasshopper, it burned up my lower unit in about 40 hours.

Now I use the Lucas Oil 85W90 GL5 fully synthetic in my lower unit.

[ri_biker]

Thanks for the answer.
The problem is not those first 10-20 running hours,problemas will appear in the future if you don't follow running in procedure or you use incorect oil.
Engine power will drop,oil consumption will increase...
Advice for lower part (gear box) oil is appreciated.

[JUST-IN-TIME]

no synth oil if you troll a lot

[Calbak65]

Any more info on this?? I have a DF150 with 400hrs on and have been using fully synthetic, I have been told I should have been using Semi as I may get glazed cylinders form using full synth. Next service I think I will go back to Suzuki Motul oil which I believe is a Semi.

[Murray]

While it's under warranty I'd use genuine Suzuki lubricants, they cost more but should the engine/lower unit fail Suzuki can't come back at you and claim that since you weren't using their lubricants warranty is void.

[Harper]

Suzuki had their own oil for a long time. It was semi-synth. And used during the break-in period.

If I were you, I would use dino oil for the break in period. Not for just the first ten hours, but for the first 50. Then switch to a good marine full synth. I have used Amsoil for years in everything, including my DF150. In the gearcase, too.

[Moonlighter]

Suzuki here in Australia still supply the Suzuki/Motul semi syn oil 10W-30 and thats what my local dealer uses in all 4 strokes, from new.

That is what I would use. It would be the safest choice.

[artdf175]

My goodness you'll see that running under 3500 rpm's (?) for the first ten hours (where you can't plane) is much more difficult than choosing oils.

I use Mobil 1 10W40 extra mileage (fully synthetic), which is the only M1 that is 10Wx40. It Exceeds all Suzuki requirements for motor oil

Your concern should be for the lower unit, where you should not use anything under 85W90 in a GL5, not just any synthetic here. And Stay Away from AMSOIL! Their 75W90 is supposed to be GL5. Oh no grasshopper, it burned up my lower unit in about 40 hours.

Now I use the Lucas Oil 85W90 GL5 fully synthetic in my lower unit.

Mobil 1 is a great oil. but from all that I have been told and have read is not to use oil formulated for autos ln outboard motors...

Art

[Harper]

My goodness you'll see that running under 3500 rpm's (?) for the first ten hours (where you can't plane) is much more difficult than choosing oils.

I use Mobil 1 10W40 extra mileage (fully synthetic), which is the only M1 that is 10Wx40. It Exceeds all Suzuki requirements for motor oil

Your concern should be for the lower unit, where you should not use anything under 85W90 in a GL5, not just any synthetic here. And Stay Away from AMSOIL! Their 75W90 is supposed to be GL5. Oh no grasshopper, it burned up my lower unit in about 40 hours.

Now I use the Lucas Oil 85W90 GL5 fully synthetic in my lower unit.

Yes everyone has his opinion. Mobil One doesn't make a marine oil. I know a lot of people use it with "no problems," but I wouldn't. The comment about Amsoil gear lube is just wrong. Whatever happened wasn't due to Amsoil Marine Gear Lube. It's been in my DF150 gearcase for 10 years with no sign of wear, no color change, no signs of burning. It meets Suzuki's requirements as well as those of other popular outboard manufacturers. It does meet specs of API, GL-4, and GL-5. And again, Lucas doesn't make a marine gear lube.

All-in-all, there are going to be many opinions, sometimes even heated arguments about Class III vs Class IV synthetics, and so on and what is best, what is junk, whose marketing technique is BS, etc. Just follow your recommended change intervals, make sure you are aware of particular problems that may be unique to marine applications, such as water intrusion (don't ignore a fishing line tangled in your prop, for instance) and you should be fine.

[wilbur1]

Not to hijack a thread, but I have a new 115 with about45hrs on it. When I picked up from the dealer he put Castrol GTX 10/30 in it. That is what I been using. Only changed it once at 20 hrs. Should I use something different.?

[Harper]

I would use something different, yes. Preferably something formulated for outboards, and preferably at least semi-synthetic. The thing about using automotive oils is that cars run a lot hotter than your outboard ever will. The oils made for your car are formulated for hot running. In an outboard that never really heats up like a car, you should use an oil that can keep some of the contaminants that would burn off in a car from being harmful to your cooler running outboard. The other factor is load. Outboards run under a lot more load than autmotive engines and at a higher RPM. The marine oils are formulated with such things in mind.

I do realize that a lot of folks run automotive oils of all sorts in their outboards, and seem to do so without problems. I'm the kind of guy that drives the same car or truck for 20+ years, do all my own work on it, and it runs like new for as long as I own it. So far, in the past 8+ years, my boat and motor have been no different. I intend to keep it that way.

[Hoosmatroos]

We can have a long discussion about what oil to use. So many people, so many opinions.

Back to the basics, if you troll a lot with your engine then there is no benefit to use synthetic oil. But for high load and revs then it could be a bit better.

I think that changing oil and filter does a lot more then using oil for a long period of time. So use a cheaper mineral oil (within specs!) and change it twice as much. Fresh mineral oil is always better than polluted synthetic. But that's just my opinion.

As far as 10W30 or 10W40, if you read about the difference than it's not much more than the viscosity when the oil is warm. In a cold environment you can even use a 5W40. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold, the second one when the oil is warm (very basic). As I said, much to read about it on the net