Valve Tappet Clearance write-up?

[LPowers]

If anyone is doing this anytime soon, can you please post a write-up of the process? Service manual doesn't specify how to turn the crank or if it should be at a TDC setting. Also, is there a shim kit to buy or would I have to purchase individual shims after I get the measurements and wait for shipment?

[jHydroman]

The valve that you are measuring the clearance on is in the correct position to measure when the camshaft lobe is pointed180 degrees from the tappet, The flywheel wheel should be marked for top dead center for number one cylinder, you can place an index card on the flywheel and accurately locate top dead center of the other cylinders.

The cost to purchase a kit that includes all of the different shim thicknesses would be cost prohibitive. Once you take the clearance on each valve you have to remove the original shim to determine the wear, you may find that it may be used on one of the other valves. I hope I find that that I only need a few new shims at $7 each since I have twin engines.

From researching the subject, it appears that you will find that most clearances will be found within tolerance. I'm hope that's the case in my situation.

I have been wondering if you can reuse the valve cover gasket, what's you thought on this?

Jim

[LPowers]

Another newb question but Tappet Clearance part of manual says to turn crankshaft but no instructions on how to do that. Do I also have to take the ring gear cover off and there is a bolt I can turn (LH) to advance the crankshaft?

[jHydroman]

The ring gear (flywheel) cover is only secured by one Phillips head machine screw and 2 rubber grommets, once the bolt is removed you just pop the cover off.

The crankshaft turns relatively easy with the spark plugs removed, just remember to turn only in the direction that is shown on the flywheel.

Jim

[Harper]

jHydroman is correct, flywheel turns easily by hand, even without removing the sparkplugs on my DF150. I did reuse the gasket, twice, once when I measured all the clearances and catalogued the shims, and again when replacing the shims. Well over half of my valves were out of spec at the first 200 hour check, all too tight. Most numbers were readable on the shims, but some were not. So I checked them with a micrometer, and ordered what I needed. And as was pointed out, some clearances could be corrected with shims from other valves, instead of new shims.

My DF150 has four bolts holding the flywheel cover down.

[redlowrey]

Another newb question but Tappet Clearance part of manual says to turn crankshaft but no instructions on how to do that. Do I also have to take the ring gear cover off and there is a bolt I can turn (LH) to advance the crankshaft?

''''''''''''' By the sounds of it you have limited knowledge of how to check and adjust the shim clearance, it is easy when you can fit a feeler gauge between the shim and the cam lobe, but what are you going to do when you come across a valve that has no clearance at all and the valve might be off its seat a few thou, and if it is a df 150 or 175 there would be a good chance of that. That is why you have to have a shim kit, other wise you are going to be in a world of hurt with down time.

[wilbur1]

The valve that you are measuring the clearance on is in the correct position to measure when the camshaft lobe is pointed180 degrees from the tappet, The flywheel wheel should be marked for top dead center for number one cylinder, you can place an index card on the flywheel and accurately locate top dead center of the other cylinders.

The cost to purchase a kit that includes all of the different shim thicknesses would be cost prohibitive. Once you take the clearance on each valve you have to remove the original shim to determine the wear, you may find that it may be used on one of the other valves. I hope I find that that I only need a few new shims at $7 each since I have twin engines.

From researching the subject, it appears that you will find that most clearances will be found within tolerance. I'm hope that's the case in my situation.

I have been wondering if you can reuse the valve cover gasket, what's you thought on this?

Jim

Can you explain this index card on the flywheel a little further.? Thanks

[jHydroman]

I was planning on using the index card to insure that I was on TDC is each cylinder other than #1 cylinder.(flywheel is only marked for TDC for #1 cylinder).

After checking clearances on one of my engines yesterday I found that I didn't need the index card. It was easy to position the cam in correct positions for each valve by aligning the highest point of the cam lobe 180 degrees from the tappet.

I placed socket on flywheel bolt and flywheel turned freely with sparkplugs in place.

My engine (DF 140) has 500 hrs on it and it was the first time that the valve clearance had been checked. I found 4 valves at .009" and the other 12 at a loose .008". I choose not to make any adjustments at this time even thought they were out of spec.

You might want to know why I waited so long before checking the clearances. It was based on information provided by my Suzuki dealer that it was rare that ever found a need to make adjustments before 500 hours. I also considered the use of my engines' that majority of the hours were at trolling speeds at less than 1000 RPM's. My dealer is a very respected dealer with many awards and I chose to take his advice. My choice might not fit everyone's needs, but in my case it worked out.

Jim

[wilbur1]

Please explain how you find TDC with an Index card.

[jHydroman]

Us the TDC mark on the flywheel to find TDC #1 cylinder (you will have to do this before removing the flywheel cover because the pointer to align the mark on the flywheel in part of the cover.

After you have completed taking reading on #1 cylinder valves rotate the flywheel 180 degrees as shown on Index Card, continue to rotate flywheel 180 degrees between taking valve clearances on each cylinder.

Jim

[wilbur1]

I gotch ya your using a degree wheel. I thought you meant a regular index card that would go in a file box. Sorry

[jHydroman]

Sorry for the confusion, you can find a degree wheel on line and print it.

Jim

[artdf175]

I was planning on using the index card to insure that I#1 cylinder.(flywheel is only maTDC for #1 cylinder

You might want to know why I waited so long before checking the clearances. It was based on information provided by my Suzuki dealer that it was rare that ever found a need to make adjustments before 500 hours. I also considered the use of my engines' that majority of the hours were at trolling speeds at less than 1000 RPM's. My dealer is a very respected dealer with many awards and I chose to take his advice. My choice might not fit everyone's needs, but in my case it worked out.

Jim

Jim sounds like you have a good dealer but he is taking a lot of risk with with your engine not following the protocol Suzuki, I believe, requires for regular engine maintainence
There is a reason behind checking the clearances long before you get to 500 hours
I have one such engine. so had it in to a dealer I THOUGHT was a good dealer .. Engine was using a fair amount of oil .. .at 200 hours service they should have checked it, they didn’t ..
At 400 some hours I was having major oil consumption now I am having compression problems leak down tests that failed
and ultimately had to find a “real” mechanic and had to rebuild the engine, replacing all the valves as half of them were bad from being out of adjustment. a $5000 plus bill that could have maybe been mitigated if the dealer had followed simple routine maintainence guidelines.
Art

[artdf175]

does this work?

[artdf175]

looks like it posted ok
This was made from a 6 inch open end wrench(?) that was for one of my grinders
took a lot of heating to bend it without the metal breaking
when centered it allows you to depress the collar that holds the shims in place on both of valves.
Art