If you do get an overheat alarm, it kicks in before any damage is done. Just turn off immediately and allow to cool.
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DF50 2009 - pee-hole output intermittent and sometimes stops
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Hello everyone I have a 2006 Suzuki DF40 had the same problem hardly peeing out of the pilot water hole. I back fleshed it change the thermostat, the water pump. It still was hardly peeing so I kept doing research found this form and thanks to y’all I found the pressure relief valve. It had junk in it keeping it open a little bit I just went ahead and replaced it since I was right there and now its peeing really good. Before it would hardly pee no matter what you did it could be in the pond or on bunny ears it would hardly pee. Here’s a picture of it now and again I wanna thank everyone on here because if it wasn’t for this form I wouldn’t never of found that valve.
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Derek1153, I think I'm having issues with my water pressure relief valve as well on my 2002 DF40. I'm having an overheat alarm at idle after a few minutes and my tell tale stream is very weak at idle but strong at higher rpms. I can run wide open and have no issues but within 30 seconds of stopping and idling, I get a temp overheat alarm. I've replaced the water pump and thermostat, but I can't figure out how to get to the water pressure relief valve to inspect it without taking the block off (per manual). Did you have to take your engine apart to get to your water pressure relief valve or do you know of another way? The other thing I've thought about is trying the vinegar flush as referenced in this thread.
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I finally got mine figured out this past Sunday evening. I had actually given up and took it to a mechanic who told me he’d never seen a problem with the water pressure valve, said my engine was probably filled with corrosion and wasn’t worth fixing, wouldn’t even keep it to look at, and tried to sell me a new motor. He did try to tell me to drill 4-5 holes in my thermostat flange, but whatever... I decided to try one more thing last week and I took the lower unit off and was going to try flushing out the water passages by circulating a vinegar/dawn dish detergent solution; however, I had read on another thread that you could see the water pressure valve once the lower unit was off. Sure enough, after some searching I finally spotted it and saw that it was indeed stuck open, but not because of corrosion, but there was a small piece of rubber tubing that had gotten stuck and kept it from closing. I took a long screwdriver and simply knocked the rubber piece free and the valve snapped closed. Problem solved. Took it to the lake Tuesday and it runs like a sewing machine. There’s pics attached that show what happened.
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Sorry everyone it’s so late. But no I didn’t take the top of engine apart at all. I drop the lower unit and took the mid drive shaft cover off the Pressure release valve is right there on the bottom of the water holding tank witch is mounted to the bottom of the oil pan.
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Sounds great, I'll be dropping my lower Unit again today and hoping to be able to either drop the valve or clean it from there, I did a 10 gallon vinegar and CLR flush over the course of about 10 hours and got quite a bit of garbage out. Previous owner claimed to have taken care of the motor and flushed it regularly-definite
ly not accurate.
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