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SMIS LMF-400 MFD internal re: Surface/Flush Mount install

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  • SMIS LMF-400 MFD internal re: Surface/Flush Mount install

    I have a "vintage" aluminum boat with remote steering and aluminum dashboard. I've installed an SMIS 4" gauge, but didn't want to cut a 3.5-in hole in my dash, so I built a "gauge cup" to install it on the deck of the boat. What I've REALLY wanted to do all along is "surface mount" the gauge to the dash of my boat without cutting a new hole. There are several small holes available in the dash for switches, etc. But no big holes.

    When I bought my gauge, I wondered what was in the cup. My suspicion was that it would have a single circuit board/display and a lot of emptry space in the cup - providing a legacy fit for existing gauge holes. I made a feeble attempt to open the cup to see what's inside, but since I'd paid over $200 for the gauge, I didn't want to destroy it, so I quit before succeeding to open the cup.

    Initially, I had built a deck mount for my gauge using some spare PVC plumbing and electrical parts from the local h/w store, with a small RAM mount. After a couple months and getting the gauge working right, I decided to up my game, and I build a new cup from a stainless martini shaker and a boat cleat - at which point I bought the optional "chrome" bezel for the gauge. I include a few photos of these two installations.

    My curiosity finally got the best of me, and I bought a "non-working" SMIS gauge on eBay for under $20. At that price, I figured I could destroy the gauge and not feel bad about it. Last night I did the deed, and my "best-case" scenario proved true - the working parts of the gauge are about 1-inch (25mm) deep, followed by about 2 inches (50mm) of empty cup.

    Given that I was not able to find any info about the gauge internals when I wanted it, I'm going to post some photos here of the disassembled gauge for the benefit of any others who may want to know. Pictures are better than words, so I'll explain only a couple things which may not be clear in the photos.

    (1) The glass cover panel (which also contains the button switchpads) is fastened to the cup using what appears to be a circular double-sided adhesive foam gasket, which I point to with a red arrow in one photo. I dug that gasket out using the edge of a small screwdriver blade. It came out cleanly, but now I'm faced with the dilemma of how to re-attach the faceplate when I want to re-assemble the gauge. I'll probably try using silicon...

    (2) The gauge is a stack of 3 pieces: the glass coverplate, a middle plate containing the LCD display, and a back plate which I assume is the brain. The three pieces are held together with plastic clips around the perimeter, so they can be separated and re-assembled as needed. You see ribbon cables connecting the three plates.

    My goal is not to modify anything... I just want to eliminate the 2 inches of empty depth in the cup, and replace the two mounting studs with a single bolt that I can to surface-mount the gauge to my dash through an existing switch hole.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
    Attached Files

  • #2
    There is a 5-photo limit per post, so I'm following up with some additional photos.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Nicely done. Should mount up nicely now.

      Were you able to see anything obvious as to why the broken gauge wasn't working?

      Comment


      • #4
        No, I haven't been able to look at the gauge. Unfortunately this gauge came with the blue N2K connector (is that "mini"?) My boat is rigged with red/black connectors (are those "micro"?) So I'm not able to connect the gauge! I have an adapter cable, but it's the wrong *** to fit the gauge. So I think I will probably cut the red end off my adapter cable (which I don't need anyway and was planning to sell), and splice it onto the gauge. The gauge cables are epoxied into the cup, so I don't believe I can use them anyway. My other option is to buy a new micro cable and splice it - but I think I would end up paying more for that cable than I paid for the gauge.

        The seller's description of the gauge was not clear on what is wrong with it. It said something like "Display does not work 100% correctly". Could mean anything, including wrong s/w, right? I'll proceed to see if can get the cup the way I want it, then see if the gauge works. If not, then I'll probably tear into my working gauge and use the same cup mods. Though it would be real nice to get this new gauge rigged up the way I want, then sell the original one and get my $$ back! Too good to be true...

        I learned early on with my original gauge, that the 3 3/8 OD of the gauge is a very near fit to a 3" PVC female pipe fitting - which is nice and cheap. So I'm going to start by cutting up a 3" pipe cap and see how it fits the flange on the gauge...

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        • #5
          Tonight I cut the cable on my $20 SMIS "not 100% correct" gauge and applied 12VDC power to the red & black wires on the gauge connector. The backlight comes on, but the gauge doesn't boot. No big S, no nothing. As I recall, the gauge should boot up with only power, correct? It should not be necessary to connect anything else to the network, should it?

          I have the shallow cup prepared as I want it, so I guess I'll pull the guts from my good gauge next.

          Comment


          • #6
            Today I got my modified low-profile SMIS gauge mounted on my dash. Everything is working fine so far. The weakest part of the installation IMHO is that I did not re-seal the display onto the front of the plastic cup. I found a 3M double-sided adhesive foam that appears to be identical to the original adhesive. I cut a ring of this foam and used it to seal the display to the cup, but when I tried to re-install the bezel over the display, I found that my foam was too thick and wouldn't allow the bezel to clip into place. My foam was advertised as 1.1mm thick, so I guess the original foam is something like 0.5mm thick. So I've installed my gauge without any adhesive in that gap. Time will tell if this causes problems with the gauge.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              That has turned out very nicely!

              Congrats on your clever idea and workmanship.

              Comment


              • #8
                Nice job !

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