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Hi all, i have recently purchased a boat with a 2008 df90tl with approx. 57 hours on it. When i first used it last week, turn key to on position, rev gauge beeped, all four lights lit up, needle showed hours used, turn key to crank engine and started fine. Speedo seemed inaccurate when traveling. Two days ago when using boat for second time, turned battery isolation switch on (single battery setup), turn key to on position, only ‘rev limit’ light came on, buzzer sounded, needle did not indicate hours used, but motor cranked and started fine. Whilst traveling, rev gauge showed nothing, fuel gauge showed nothing, speedo was still inaccurate, and trim gauge showed nothing. Each time i stopped and started, same thing happened. No gauges working, but engine started without hassle, idled perfect, trolled perfect, revved fine as well. WOT it sounded like hitting a rev limiter, yet no warning lights sounded. Gauges were dead. Any ideas? Common problem? Many thanks in advance
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So the question is.. the first time you were using a dual battery position? and 2nd time you switched to single battery?
If that is the case, what will happen if you place battery switch back to dual batteries?
It would seem obvious that it is a wiring problem. I would start with looking at the power source for your gauges. they are usually tied in a parallel wiring fashion. Look to see if the main power lead has dropped off connection and/or look to see where the fuse is for this wire. The other thing after checking those easy to inspect items, find any splices and check for corrosion inside the connectors, that you may or may not be able to see.
Art
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According to my wiring schematic (2009 DF90A) there is a 10A fuse on a red/green wire that supplies power to the gauges. This fuse is also tied into the lighting switch, so you shouldn't have nav. lights nor backlighting on your speedometer.Comment
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Thanks for the responses guys. The boat only has one battery but it is hooked to an isolation switch. Do i search for these potentially corroded wires around the gauges them self or around the motor? Another thing i should have mentioned, i live in Adelaide and purchased the boat from Mackay, Queensland. I had it transported down on a semi (2700kms). Do you think something could have vibrated loose? Also, i can’t understand how one red light still works yet the other three don’t. Would this be a gauge issue? It seems all gauges wires tie into the tacho. Is the tacho the main gauge which then feeds power to the other gauges? One last question, i unclipped a sensor on the top of the motor, and then started it so see if the diagnostic system would pick up a problem, sure enough it started a series of beeps. Knowing this, do you thinks it’s still safe to take the boat out before fixing tacho issue? Sorry for all the questions!Comment
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I would get the issues sorted out first.
Electrical issues can raise their ugly heads at any time and the last thing you want is the motor to not start or to stop when you really dont want it to.
You can start at the battery end and start checking all connections from there to the main switch. Undo and clean and attach and tighten all connections to make sure they are good.
Then check the main harness connection under the cowl. Look for loose or broken wires. Then check the other end where the throttle is connected to the harness and where the gauges are connected.
From there it depends in how confident you are to look further. I have a friend in Adelaide with a Suzuki so I can ask him for a recommendation for a reliable Suzuki mechanic if you dont know one yourself. Let me know if you want me to follow that up for you.
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i will be taking your advice! current situation as instructed by Murray, i have found that 10A fuse behind the console and it had been blown. Replaced fuse, turned key to on position and sure enough all lights came on, but died 1 second later and all that remained was the single red ‘rev limit’ light. Fuse was blown again. This would be a short from the fuse onwards? Or back towards the battery?Comment
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First of all I'm no Electrician. The fuse is to protect components and prevent fire due to overheating. I'd pay heed to Moonlighter's advice and not run it until the issue is sorted out. The short could be anywhere in the circuit. As Moomlighter and Art have pointed out check all connections, splices and plugs. If it was me I'd start at the fuse and work towards the dash checking every wire, looking for bare/frayed wires, if you don't find anything then work back towards the battery. Another thought is unplug all the connectors under the dash, if any, and plug them in one at a time power cycling after each plug in to narrow the search down. Troubleshooting electrical issues can be a real challenge, you might get lucky and find the issue in 5 minutes or not, the key is take your time and approach the problem in a methodical manner. Good luck and count on a stiff neck/sore back.Comment
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already have the stiff neck i’m sure the back will follow 😁. Ok story so far, changed fuse, removed all globes and as you suggested started one by one connecting wires as we went. No visually freyed or bad wires, and sure enough the system now works 100%. Maybe by cutting all the cable ties we inevitably separated a shorter out wire. Who knows, it’s above my pay grade. Many thanks to all for your comments and help, i’d be quite out of pocket if i had to go to a dealer. Moonlighter i would be appreciative if you could follow up that lead for me regarding the Suzuki Mechanic, id be more comfortable bringing it somewhere for service that you guys recommended. Happy holidays!Comment
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Ok i have messaged my friend in Adelaide will lt you know when I hear back.Comment
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Ok, his recommendation (where he gets his own Suzuki serviced) is to take it into Arno's Marine. Not cheap but give good service and know what they are doing 👍Comment
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i was recommended to them by whitworths marine, i guess that’s where i’m taking it then! Thanks for getting back to me, happy new year!Comment
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'''''''''It sounds like the problem is on the gauges side of the fuse, if it was on the supply side, gray wire to fuse it would have blew the 15 amp ignition fuse when you turned the key on. The red and green wire will supply battery voltage for the lights on the gauges and gray to power them up. If the fuse blows again, disconnect all the plugs to the gauges and connect a test light to battery pos and touch the load side of the fuse holder, if anything is going to ground the test light will light, if it don't light connect each plug one at a time till it does and you will find your problem.Originally posted by pridecharger View Post
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'''''''''''I should have added, only use a low powered test light no more than 200ma current draw, and disconnect each plug after testing.Originally posted by redlowrey View Post
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Just an update, the fuse eventually blew again so i had my father (technician) have a look, hooked multimeter up the where fuse was and checked amp draw when the key turns. Upon turning the key she spiked at 11amps obviously blowing the 10amp fuse. turns out one of the globes was a 3W instead of 1.2W like the rest were. removed globe, turned key she spiked at 8.8amls upon startup. put in correct 1.2W globe, turn key she spiked at 9.5amps (or thereabouts i can’t remember exactly). all in all she hasn’t blown yet and i don’t think it will, but wanted to thank all for their input and time in helping me solve this one!Comment
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What you are saying does not add up, a 3 watt globe will draw 250ma, and a 1.2 around 100ma, so when you turn the key on it spikes at 9.5 amps, or 9500ma, current is going somewhere it shouldn't.Comment
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