suzuki smis 4'' multi-function gauge and a DF30ATL

[mmanuel]

I recently installed a suzuki smis 4'' multi-function gauge on my 2016 DF30AT, upon start up for the first time, I got dashes instead of data. The only thing that had a reading was the voltage (13.8v). Also, All of the warning lights on the motor were steady on. I followed the sticky post on installing this gauge on the bigger motors with the exception of plugging the remote harness from analog to digital at the motor. I see the SDS communications connector (as per the service manual), but I don't see where to disconnect the harness from in order to connect it to the SDS. Suggestions?

2014DF25ARS stated "correct SDC adapter cable between the engine diagnostic port and the EIC", can someone explain this to me and provide a part# for this cable? Thanks in advance.

[2014DF25ARS]

As far as I can tell, there are two versions of the cable offered by Suzuki. Each has a different part number. The only difference between the two is the length and the price. I bought the short (1.8m) cable off eBay. Another member bought the longer cable (7m) from BrownsPoint Marine online. I would prefer to have the longer cable, but the price was about $70 higher as I recall, and I'm doing fine with the short one.

I don't know the part number offhand, but I believe if you follow Moonlighter's sticky thread to the end, you will find both part numbers included in our discussion. I believe the cable is called "SDS to SMIS interface cable". I just checked the thread, and I think all the info you are looking for is on page 4 of that thread, including some photos from myself and member keizerh.

Turns out you don't use any of the connectors in the provided engine cable harness for SMIS. You must run a new route all the way from the SDS connector by the engine computer to your SMIS Engine Interface Cable. The adapter cable you will buy has the same 4-pin locking square connector you find (and don't use) on the engine cable harness. Not at all obvious IMHO.

I did use two of the bullet connectors on the engine harness to get power for my NMEA 2000 network. My setup has been working fine since upgrading the sw.

[mmanuel]

Well I think I have a grasp on what needs to be done. Cable is on order, and it's raining at the lake today anyway, so I guess its just an all around wasted weekend. Still debating how I'm going to get my software upgraded, dealer is a hour and a half away or a $200 interface to connect my humminbird to the N2K network. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some one local with a Lorance. At any rate, I'm too far into it to give up now. Thanks to all the info.

Matt

[2014DF25ARS]

If you've recently bought the pieces, I would hope that no sw upgrade is needed. Have you checked the sw version of your 4-inch display yet? You should be able to see the version if it's booting OK.

Unfortunately, the 4_inch display won't show you the sw version of your EIC. I think the "tell" on the EIC version is whether you see your DF30 engine included in the list when configuring the display. If not, then you probably need to upgrade the EIC to get correct fuel usage data. That was my experience.

[mmanuel]

My gauge info reads LMF-400, ver 2.6.0, boot 1-1.70, build :MZ1454. When I first set it up DF40 was the smallest engine in the list

[Moonlighter]

Ok, that is the software version on the gauge. Now, don't get that confused with the software version on the Suzuki a Engine Interface cable. They are 2 different things. (Yes, there is SW installed on that Suzuki engine interface cable, as strange as that may sound).

Unfortunately, the SMIS display can't show you which SW version the interface cable is running, you need a Lowrance or Simrad MFD to show that information. Also, if you do need to change SW versions on either the gauge or the interface cable, again, only the Lowrance/Simrad MFD's can be used to install that SW. No other brand MFD can do it.

The engine list that you use the gauge to select from is NOT sourced from the gauge, it is sourced from the engine interface cable SW. So as was pointed out, if the DF30 wasn't on the list to select from, then the interface cable SW needs to be updated, then you should find that the DF30 is automatically selected. So, it might be best to just double check the engine details to make sure that the DF30 is or isn't listed.

If yo there is No DF30 listed, you have 2 choices:
1. Remove the interface cable and send it back to the seller to have it updated to the latest SW; or try your local Suzuki dealer, they can do it but may charge you.

2. If you have a Lowrance or Simrad MFD on your network, or can borrow one from someone and temporarily attach it to your network, then you can download the latest SW for the interface cable from the Lowrance website, copy it to a SD card, and use the Lowrance/Simrad to load it onto the interface cable.

I haven't had time lately to do an update to the document in the forum resource about this, I will try to do it before Christmas but it won't be in November as I am going away on holidays.

[2014DF25ARS]

Manuel, in case you are in the US, I'll point out that I managed to upgrade my EIC with the help of the shift manager at my local Gander Mountain store. There were a couple of important details:

First, I believe it is necessary that the EIC be connected to a Suzuki engine (or to an engine/SDS simulator) in order to boot and upgrade the cable. This means you can't just carry your cable to a store to upgrade it.

Second, when we brought the Lowrance unit out to my boat for the upgrade, we found that unlike the SMIS MFD, the Lowrance unit requires a separate power connection in addition to the NMEA network connection.

Before I went begging at the store for my upgrade, I tried to find someone with the needed Lowrance device in the local bass fishing club. But while it might be rather straightforward to borrow the display unit from a friend, etc. (depending on how his display is mounted in the boat), it could be a bigger deal to get the display AND the power cable. So I think the best approach would be to pull the two boats side by side and plug your EIC into his network or something similar.

I believe user keirzeh was planning to upgrade his EIC as well. Curious to hear how he did it. I think he may have an SDS simulator with the needed kit.

Good luck!
Jeff

[Moonlighter]

Manuel, in case you are in the US, I'll point out that I managed to upgrade my EIC with the help of the shift manager at my local Gander Mountain store. There were a couple of important details:

First, I believe it is necessary that the EIC be connected to a Suzuki engine (or to an engine/SDS simulator) in order to boot and upgrade the cable. This means you can't just carry your cable to a store to upgrade it.

Second, when we brought the Lowrance unit out to my boat for the upgrade, we found that unlike the SMIS MFD, the Lowrance unit requires a separate power connection in addition to the NMEA network connection.

Before I went begging at the store for my upgrade, I tried to find someone with the needed Lowrance device in the local bass fishing club. But while it might be rather straightforward to borrow the display unit from a friend, etc. (depending on how his display is mounted in the boat), it could be a bigger deal to get the display AND the power cable. So I think the best approach would be to pull the two boats side by side and plug your EIC into his network or something similar.

I believe user keirzeh was planning to upgrade his EIC as well. Curious to hear how he did it. I think he may have an SDS simulator with the needed kit.

Good luck!
Jeff

Good info there from Jeff. Correct that you would need the power cable for the HDS.

As he says, it can be an easier option to pull your boat alongside another boat that has a NMEA 2000 network that includes a Lowrance MFD such as a HDS. (By the way I forgot to add that it must be a Lowrance unit that has the ability to display NMEA2000 engine data and has an SD card slot) so Elites will not work - must be a HDS or other premium type model.).

You can then run a long network cable between the end of the backbone on your boat (just take one of the terminating resistors off and connect it there) to the backbone on the other boat (same thing - take a resistor out there too) - effectively creating a single network that will allow you to use the HDS on the other boat to update your Interface cable.

BUT BEWARE: if you do this you MUST disable one of the network power connections on one of the boats, because you must only have 1 power supply connected at a time. Simply unplug one of the power connections from its T piece.

[keizerh]

I didn't update yet, little rib is in wintersleep. But got a simrad Mfd connected, so it must be possible from there.

Time we get the connections of the interface for the smaller engines cable up here.
The Suzuki cables are way to expensive.

Our current version doesn't show the DF30, is selects the DF40.
That is the smallest engine listed

[2014DF25ARS]

SMIS 4" internals

Hey Moonlighter - I'm going to detour this thread to ask you a question about the SMIS 4" gauge. I mounted mine in a stainless cup on the deck of my boat, because I don't want to cut a 3.5" hole into the aluminum dashboard of my antique boat. What I REALLY want is to "surface-mount" the gauge onto my dash without cutting a big hole. There are several existing smaller holes in my dash for cables & switches, etc. that I could use IF I could surface-mount the MFD to my dash. I'm wondering what's inside the gauge, e.g. if it's nothing but a flat round circuit board with a lot of empty space in the cup behind it. Has anyone torn one of these things apart to see what's inside? I came close to cutting mine open, but I paid too much for it to pull the trigger.

I have a bid on an as-is non-working gauge on eBay that I'm hoping to win tonight. If I get it, it will be cheap enough that I don't mind cutting it open. Best case would be that I find something I can do to fix it, AND find that the guts are only 10mm deep, allowing me to cut the rest off and surface mount it. Just wondering if someone has already seen inside...

[mmanuel]

2014DF25ARS - That's some great suggestions. I'm in Texas and they just opened a Gander Mountain near me, and they screwed me on my I-Pilot (Made me wait a week when it was sitting in receiving the whole time), so they owe me one!

Also if you manage to win your bid and cut that thing open, make sure to take lots of pics real close so as to get the chip set numbers. I'm considering doing the same thing with an EIC. I've already hooked a bit monitor to the SDS on my motor and got some interesting data streams. Once I figure out the N2K protocol I might be able to write a laptop based loader for the .luf files/diagnostic software. It's what I do for a living, and it sounds like a good winter project.

[2014DF25ARS]

I believe Lowrance offers an SDS engine simulator app for Windows as a download on their website, in the same location where you download the latest f/w images. I think you may be able to use that app to upgrade various NMEA2000 components. Problem is getting the app physically connected to your devices/cables. I believe there's an adapter cable available on Ebay for about $100. I think it's from USB to SDS... If you're in the business, you may be able to make said cable yourself and use their app to do the upgrade. I found it easier to work with the guys at the local store.

Of course, I also think Lowrance is located in Texas...

I won my auction on Ebay tonight - $17 for a 4-inch gauge including shipping. So I'll post some photos of my SMIS MFD autopsy in a week or two.

[mmanuel]

Well, the conclusion to my saga is as follows... I got all the cables in and hooked everything up. Works great! DF30 showed up on the selection list so I guess it's got the latest f/w already on the interface. Says it's using .8 gal/hr @ 4500rpm (wasn't quite finished with the 2 hr break-in). I'm curious as to fuel rate @ 6000rpm. All in need to do is add the trim sensor and get more time on the motor and then Ill be looking for the proper prop.

[2014DF25ARS]

Mmanuel, I'm finding with my DF25A that my max MPG is about 22-23 mpg. Unfortunately that happens when I'm barely on plane, which seems a bit strange to me. I enjoy cruising around between 4500-5000 rpm, and the gauge shows I'm getting 16-17 mpg at that speed (around 23-24 mph in my boat.

I too am looking for a prop that will get me one or two mph. My motor came with a Suzuki 11-pitch prop, and I hit about 5850 rpm at WOT with that prop. I had it measured and found that it is a actually progressive pitched from 10 to 12. So the pitch is higher than advertised. Before learning that I had bought a Solis 11-pitch SS prop. I'm still looking...

If you are serious about hacking the SMIS gauge, I have the guts of my "broken" gauge that I don't really need anymore... I'll give it to you on condition that if you get it working you have to give it back!

[mmanuel]

Mmanuel, I'm finding with my DF25A that my max MPG is about 22-23 mpg. Unfortunately that happens when I'm barely on plane, which seems a bit strange to me. I enjoy cruising around between 4500-5000 rpm, and the gauge shows I'm getting 16-17 mpg at that speed (around 23-24 mph in my boat.

I too am looking for a prop that will get me one or two mph. My motor came with a Suzuki 11-pitch prop, and I hit about 5850 rpm at WOT with that prop. I had it measured and found that it is a actually progressive pitched from 10 to 12. So the pitch is higher than advertised. Before learning that I had bought a Solis 11-pitch SS prop. I'm still looking...

If you are serious about hacking the SMIS gauge, I have the guts of my "broken" gauge that I don't really need anymore... I'll give it to you on condition that if you get it working you have to give it back!

As for the prop, I like the idea of a "swap till you get it right" approach. I need to find out more about that! Keep me posted on your findings.
As for the gauge, that would be great. I might be able to re-flash the f/w and get it to boot. I'm real interested in the chip set and what they use for the micro processor. Worst case, it never works again. On your set up, have you thought of putting the PCB behind the dash and running the ribbon cable through a hole to the LCD? Would make a supper flush mount!
PM about shipping the gauge.

Matt