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Sorry, different than my dt140's. The efi motors have a TVS (throttle valve sensor), that's why I asked. What has your motor started doing? Why think it's the TVs?
Post back, explain what happened with your motor, what you've done so far, and don't change the TVs unless you have the knowledge how to adjust it.
about every 3 weeks if I don't use the boat I would start up the motor just for maintenance check, this last week it ran good at idle then the rev and temp warning horn would go off about every 45 seconds. when this happens the engine would rev up for about 3 seconds and then idle ok, wait another 45 seconds and it would do the same thing.
This sounds more like a heat sensor (fluctuating) going bad? Most likely this is where you should look first. If it jumps to ”hot” setting alarms off, then drops to ”cold temp”/ or startup temp reading, this bouncing between hot & cold could initiating higher RPMs, just like the initial startup.
It's also possible a sticking/ thermostat may be involved? If partially closed motor gets a little warmer than normal turning on temp system, but would that cause motor to rev? If it did, the increased RPMs might cool motor down (higher water pump flow rate) just enough to start the sequence over?
Just a couple thoughts, but don't think your TVS is involved.
Good luck, post us back if you find out what's up?
with either temp sensor disconnected the engine ran good, but I did get check engine light on and horn, I had two old temp sensor but it still had the same fault(which came out of good running Suzuki), I going to replace the thermostats to see if that will help.
those thermostats not sticking and both opens up, with the water hose on the engine the heads don't get hot at all. maybe the used temp sensor are bad to?? any more ideas?
Well if your impeller has not run dry (without being immersed in water completely), then I would test all the sensors by the service manual. If one sensor is changing when it gets to a particular temp, it could cause your symptoms.
If you run with both sensors on motor disconnected, test both sensors with ohm meter when cold, then as motor warms up check both sensors again while running. If one sensor shows hotter than the other, swap places with sensors, and repeat the test, if same sensor reads hotter again, replace sensor. If the other sensor that was cooler, now reads hotter, then you may have cooling water blockage around one our more cylinders, causing one side of motor to be warmer than the other side? This could be causing problems? You can also try the used sensors from good motor, IF they read the same ohm value (sensors from different motors may use different resistance sensors?).
this morning i ohm out both sensors and with both sensor at static outside temp ,ohm at 1.7 for both sensors, warm up pot of water to 130 degrees F
and both sensors drop to 1.1 ohms, drop was the same on each, installed those sensors in the engine and crank up engine, what is amazing the engine did not rev up and ran perfect for about 15 minutes, tomorrow I will take the boat out in the river to see if if the problem is there, I really don't know what fix it. will keep you posted
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