I got the corrosion (DF140)

[briscoe]

Sent u phone number

Several things going forward, to do. I have scribbled them down call me. Easy money. U got this

[briscoe]

Yes it breaks apart easy

It lifts up easily, try and do so with the engine level and not crooked. It is held by bearing under timing chain, the crank shaft sticks into the bearing real snug.
Also look under there when you can to see if that plate that.covers the reverse/forward linkage is corroded. You will need to order another plate. Under that plate, also is a bolt you have to remove to drop oil pan. I reused that gasket.

[briscoe]

Here is detail of plate and bolt

Bolt 13 on this detail

[briscoe]

What about that last bolt

Hey Alabama,
Did you get that last bolt broken free to pull your power head?
Just wondering how that was going.

[Auburn02]

Update - I did get the last bolt free about a week ago and popped the powerhead off without any issue and have the engine holder separated from the oil pan and the oil pickup, engine mounts, etc off the engine holder just waiting for the new one to come in. It's actually on the UPS truck today, but due to my schedule I might not get to work on it til at least Wednesday, and if not then it'll be Sunday before I can really start back on re-assembly. I'll be shooting for a test run on the water next weekend (30th), then pull the covers off to check for leaks and re-torque bolts and we'll be set for the season.

[briscoe]

Your ok

The bolts that appeared rusted are nomal. That is a little surface rust. They will come out. Don't be scared, i ran mine 8 years in salt water service before i went into it. All bolts broke loose. Patching the holder is a temporary fix, this info from others that have done it.
Those bolts will break loose. Get the break over bar and go around them. Mine came loose and so will yours.

[Auburn02]

Hey Briscoe, as you can read in my last update all the bolts are off and I have the new parts. It's just waiting for me to find time to put it back together now. Thanks.

[briscoe]

Plate cover for shift linkage

I was just wondering if that plate inside the engine holder was in good condition. Glad to hear you have it going your way. Just imagine the shop cost if you were not doing the work?

[Auburn02]

Mine doesn't have that plate you were talking about. Looks like it was added in later models.

Everything is back together and I started the engine yesterday. Other than taking some time to fire (no fuel in the lines or fuel rails), it's running and idling fine. But I'm getting an IAT sensor check engine code. Did a fair amount of troubleshooting and it seems I have a break in the black/white wire from the IAT sensor plug, as I can't detect continuity from that pin at the IAT plug back to the main plug at the ECU, or even to the black/white pin at the MAP sensor and they share the same connection. So I'm hoping in the pulling and moving of the harness, I just broke a solder joint where the lead from the IAT sensor joins the main harness. I'll start unwrapping it tonight.

[briscoe]

Outstanding

Good job, on finishing and troubleshooting code issue. Good luck.

Hopefully one of these electrical gurus might chime in.

BTW, do you think welding the spot on the holder would have been productive? Shawn, Wedeqo username, said he had other corrosion and his holder needed replacing. His was some of the first discussions about this corrosion issue, back in 08 or 09.

[mrcgalvan1]

Hole underneath water jacket cover

Greetings I'm new to the forum, and I was wondering if anyone has had this problem before. Service tech. found a hole when they were checking for pluggable. It's on the front side of the engine which has a plate/cover with two small metal tubing nipples for rubber hose hook up. Have pics haven't figured out yet.

[Auburn02]

Yeah, I'm at a loss on your issue mrcgalvan. Can't think of what part you're referring to, and I just took apart my engine so that's saying something. Obviously a picture would help greatly.

I got my ecu code sorted out. It seems in the process of disconnecting the sensor I somehow broke off the wire inside the plug itself. Originally it was the black/white wire, but after I hacked up the plug and soldered in a length of new wire the green one broke off just the same way, right behind the factory crimp. So I soldered in a patch link on that one too. Not too pleased with how I beat up the connector and concerned that the solder joints will fail with vibration and time, I would like to find a replacement plug with a wire pigtail attached and crimp it into the main harness.

But alas, it starts, idles smooth, no codes. I ran it for 20 minutes on the hose and then changed the oil, and I'll splash the boat this weekend.

Briscoe, I suspect in my case a plug/weld would have held up fine, but I had no way of knowing that without pulling it apart. The agony of not knowing the condition of the holder and oil pan would have driven me nuts.

[briscoe]

I feel the same

It would have driven me crazy too. Not knowing, plus the heat from welding around the witing. Oh no..
As for the soldered wire. I always try and use a shrink wrap around them and they hold and contact better than crimp. The issues with copper wire is they should be using tinned wire on our boats and we would not have the corrosion problems of copper type.

Auburn, you can feel good about rescuing that engine and saving several thousands of dollars, not including the parst mark up and supplies they now add on. You are a Suzuki engine veteran now. I hope we get 10 more years of service out our 140s.
Take care,
Briscoe Cain
Great state of Texas.

[Auburn02]

Heck yeah, thanks Briscoe.

[WEDOCQ]

Hey nice work! I went thru all that myself. Not real fun when some of the bolts are corroded in the holes. Do yourself a favor, watch the engine oil real close at first. I discovered the hard way that there are a few different versions of the engine holder gasket that are just slightly different. I put a version on that allowed water to get into my crankcase, and I had to pull it all apart again...ugh!
-Shawn