I got the corrosion (DF140)

[Auburn02]

I know there are countless threads on this topic, so I already know what caused it, and what needs to be done (aluminum plug or weld) - this post is to provide a picture of my specific engine/plug, and listen to suggestions on how you would attack it based on what you see.

The engine is a 2003 with only about 375 hours, almost all of that in saltwater.

Happened to have the boat home for some minor maintenance and cleanup for a trip next week, so I popped off the side cover last night to have a peek. I have not yet made any attempts to remove it, and won't until the boat is done for the fall/winter in another month or two. My initial thoughts are to soak the hell out of it with PB Blaster for 2-3 days straight, and maybe even hold a torch to it for a minute before I even attempt to turn it. Anything else I can do to improve my chances of getting it out?

One last question, it almost looks like there are 3 parts - the plug itself, some kind of ring around the plug, and the engine holder. Is that outer ring I see part of the plug, or some kind of threaded insert pressed into the engine holder?

[Auburn02]

I think I got my own answer about the 2nd part, called a gasket but I presume more of a washer than a gasket as seen in the parts breakdown.

2003 DF140 Suzuki Marine Outboard ENGINE HOLDER Diagram and Parts

[catacom225]

engine holder

You won't Know until you try, My 140 with over 600 hours just undone with no problems at all. But saying that, if its not completely chewed out
a slight amount of heat along with some penetrating fluid with forward and backward motions should get it out.

[nelbur]

That rust on the washer and plug is not THE problem corrosion. The problem corrosion is where the aluminum engine holder corrodes through next to the plug. I would remove your plug and install an aluminum plug. You may have to drill it out, but try the less drastic removal techniques first.

[WEDOCQ]

There is an outfit that sells the Aluminum plugs on Ebay. I would also find a small pen camera and check out the inside after you pull the plug. You will get a better idea of whether or not the engine holder will need replacing. Mine was a 2002 with less than 500 hours that was done around 2010.
-Shawn

[Auburn02]

I had every intention of trying to remove the steel plug at the end of last boating season. Of course I didn't do that. So here we are just a few weeks from wanting to have the boat in the water and I'm starting on my seasonal maintenance. Decided to tackle that plug. Soaked all day in PB Blaster, then put about 10 lbs of torque on it and it let go...not the plug, but the wall of the holder itself. Son of a bitch!

I have a friend who's a welder, gonna see how he feels about welding aluminum and maybe get him over to look at it, but just looking through the hole the holder itself looks pretty gnarly.

Ugh. I'm so bummed right now. I'm a pretty mechanically inclined guy so I think I could replace the holder myself if it comes to that, but I was looking forward to oil changes and wash & wax to get it ready for the summer, not this. Not to mention what else am I going to find that needs replacing if I tear into it.

[Auburn02]

See if I can get some photos on here from my phone. Looks to be some corrosion inside the holder for sure, but how bad I can't tell. Looking for input to help me decide whether I'm too far gone to try the weld or if I just need to buck up and start pulling parts.

[Auburn02]

Another. The oil pan bolts closer to the plug are rusted some as well. Signs that the oil pan needs to be replaced too, or just nature of being threaded into the holder closest to the corrosion?

I also can't remove the flush port plug now, going to have to break it to remove I think. Was thinking I could maybe get a peak inside the exhaust jacket through there to look for corrosion in the pan but can't recall if that would be the case or not.

[Auburn02]

One more, just another angle trying to look inside the holder.

[nelbur]

The aluminum housing broke away because it had been thinned due to corrosion caused by the steel plug. If it were mine I would weld an aluminum patch over the hole. With the steel plug gone the corrosion should be slowed.

[Solarman]

I think I'm in agreement with nelbur.
If all was running fine, then plug, it weld it, and leave it alone till the end of the season. Then order the main parts, gaskets, etc. And repair.

I'm still a two stroke man. These 4's still have bugs.

[Auburn02]

Thanks guys. Still just not having much luck finding someone local to weld it. Well, more specifically someone who's done this job before that I can trust their work, not someone who thinks they can weld it.

In the meantime I'm putting together a parts list of what all I would need to do the job right including the holder and all necessary gaskets, etc. Even if it took 20 hours of my own labor, I can spread that out over the evenings after work and knock it out myself in a week or two.

[Auburn02]

There's no turning back now!



I've got all my parts ordered, so I have about a week to separate the powerhead from the engine holder. Not going to get in any rush, will just try heating/cooling/tapping the 8 main powerhead bolts daily until they give. If you guys have any tips on removing those bolts, I'll take them. The biggest bummer is I can't really soak them in penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or Kroil since the bolts are inserted upside-down.

If I screw up and break one off, I'll hire a traveling mechanic to come to the house and get them out, then I'll finish the job myself.

[briscoe]

Whew, lot of work to change holder!

Poop on welding the hole. Shane will tell u its a very temporary fix. If u have a engine jack stand that can hold up the power head while u pull the holder its not that big of a job. Well it's time consuming, but considering cost a shop would charge $2500+. U can do it for under a grand. The holder is a $900 part. It will take 2 or three days. U need the shop manual. Although the tear down of the power head is not really required, as detailed in the manual. I lifted my power head off due to another issue, and will gladly go over what u need to do and not, according to the manual. The manual describes work required for complete teardown. If u want contact me using email and we can talk by phone. I'll go over it with u.
Briscoe
Houston suburb.

[Auburn02]

Yep, you have definitely been there and done that.

I currently have all but one powerhead bolt loose and ready to come out, just taking my time on the last bolt immediately forward of the exhaust jacket on the port side so I don't break it off. Heat, cool, tap, impact, heat, cool, impact, tap, etc.

I removed the intake manifold and some other parts from the powerhead before I too realized it didn't all need to come off. But at least that gave me a chance to open and inspect my VST filter/screen (it was pretty clean).

My parts are about a week out or more still, so I'll continue working on that last powerhead bolt, and in the meantime will also pull the lower unit and try to break the mount bolts loose that secure the mid unit to the transom bracket.

Did you have any trouble breaking the powerhead free from the engine holder once all the bolts were removed or did it hoist off fairly effortlessly?

Can't find a way to email you, but I'll try a PM through the forum.