New member needing help with a 95 225 efi suzuki

[stratos20]

It is possible, I guess, for the end of the fuel hose to suck itself onto the tank bottom when fuel is being drawn through by the fuel pump. Starvation would be the result. Not unlike the symptoms you've been having....... I have seen that happen when syphoning a tank so is is plausible.

Probably this wouldn't stop fuel flow altogether, but might be enough to restrict it quite a bit especially at revs or under load. And as soon as the engine stops or drops back to idle, it might let go so fuel flows properly again. Which would make it very hard to diagnose.

Stranger things have happened!! A proper marine fuel tank does have its advantages!!!

Ummmm, also, how have you got where the hose goes into the tank sealed so fuel doesn't leak out when the boat is bouncing around?

And if you have got that fuel line entry sealed up somehow, how is the tank vented, so that as fuel is used, air can get in to replace the volume of fuel taken out???

Where I am heading with this is, that the fuel tank needs to be vented so that fuel can flow freely out, and air can flow freely into the tank as fuel leaves it. Otherwise you will soon get a situation where the vacuum created in the tank can overcome the fuel pump's ability to suck fuel to the engine.

You would expect to see the tank getting sucked out of shape in that case, unless it is a very rigid design. And of course, the faster the engine is running, the more fuel it sucks from the tank, and the greater the likelihood that it will starve the motor of fuel if the vent situation is not working or is restricted. Or, if the engine's fuel pump is a bit weak for some reason.......

If there is any chance that this is happening, then yes, get a proper marine fuel tank and connect up to it, and make sure the vent is open and the tank can breathe properly whenever the engine is running.

The primer bulb then does its job by pushing fuel up to the engine and then, because it has a one-way valve in it, prevents fuel running back to the tank whenever the fuel pump isn't actively pumping. So get a good quality fuel bulb, the best ones are made by Mercury as they have a proper valve in them, most others it's just a flapper valve. It is also best to position the bulb so it is angled upwards so the end leading to the engine is higher. This is required so the flapper style valves in particular actually work.

The other thing that springs to mind now that you've mentioned this fuel tank arrangement is the fuel hose from the tank to the engine. How new/old is it, and what size? A 225 2 stroke sucks fuel at a pretty significant rate, especially as the revs get higher, and if the fuel hose is either partially clogged or too small in the first place, then fuel starvation will, once again, be the result.

One final thing is that with that tank arrangement, have you got a water separating filter between the tank and the engine?? Not having one may explain why your injectors were full of junk. This should be considered as a mandatory requirement these days with the crappy fuel we so often get from poorly maintained tanks at gas stations. I personally would never contemplate not having one on my fuel line.

Hope this doesn't cover things already posted.

Best of luck getting it sorted.

Do have a water separator between tank and engine, also I believe the fuel hose size is 3/8".

[stratos20]

Well tested on the ramp today, fuel pressure is good and steady 36-38psi, now I have a new problem I did not see water coming out the tell tale only a few drops were coming out so I guess a new water pump should be installed?

[Solarman]

Did you run motor without water for even a couple seconds, anytime? The water pump impeller is only water lubricated, so anytime the flywheel turns, the impeller turns, and if dry when it turns it will overheat immediately (fragment, or melt).
If you've had water on the impeller every time out was turned over, then check the tell tale for slight blockage with thick monofilament line?

If you do have to replace impeller, before going back together, blow backward from pee-hole, or thermostat cover, to water pump with an air compressor, just to be sure no pieces are stuck farther up?

Glad you have steady pressure on fuel rail.

We here, (South Carolina) have some flooding weather coming our way, and may be tough responding (power outages, etc.) For the next few days.

Let it's know how it's going. Post when able. Good luck.

[stratos20]

Did you run motor without water for even a couple seconds, anytime? The water pump impeller is only water lubricated, so anytime the flywheel turns, the impeller turns, and if dry when it turns it will overheat immediately (fragment, or melt).
If you've had water on the impeller every time out was turned over, then check the tell tale for slight blockage with thick monofilament line?

If you do have to replace impeller, before going back together, blow backward from pee-hole, or thermostat cover, to water pump with an air compressor, just to be sure no pieces are stuck farther up?

Glad you have steady pressure on fuel rail.

We here, (South Carolina) have some flooding weather coming our way, and may be tough responding (power outages, etc.) For the next few days.

Let it's know how it's going. Post when able. Good luck.

I did a compression check with no water didn't know you needed it since the motor is just turning over and not firing? I must have burned up the impeller then. Could it be the cause of my limp mode? Good luck and be safe.

[Bamahemi]

If that was the original impeller that came with the boat when you bought it which I suspect it was then it was probably going bad already but the newer impellers are tougher than you think, turning over a few times especially without running motor for compression check isn't gonna hurt it if it's newer, old maybe! Doing you wanna do that all the time nope, but to forget once or twice and immediately turn it off is not gonna hurt it! You bought a used motor, everything should be replaced that is a maintenance item, any hoses, vacuum lines, vapor case return hoses, plugs, filters, anodes, fluids, check all connections intimately for corrosion and breakage, replace old two stroke oil, all this I am sure your in the middle of, good luck! Limp mode would only be sensor related, overheat, two stroke level sensor as well if equipped! Another thing that kills impellers is shallow sandy areas, and they can also clog the system.

[Solarman]

Bam bam, NEW impeller, or OLD impeller. They are both water lubricated and made from epdm rubber, they are both bent in place and under slight pressure, meaning firmly contacting the stainless cup surface. Granted turning flywheel by hand may be ok, but turning motor over by starter, or running motor is NOT ok, AT ALL. For any couple of seconds. If you do, NEW impeller, or OLD, it will overheat. So, please don't tell anyone it's ok. It is not ok.
The flywheel is connected to the crankshaft, which is directly connected to the driveshaft, which turns the impeller. If the impeller is ONLY water lubricated, it WILL overheat in just a couple of seconds if dry (it will melt, or fragment if dry).

Also, there isn't a need in changing 2-stroke oil.

Good luck.

[Bamahemi]

Solarium, the sky will not fall and the earth will not scorch, is it best practice too never run without water of course but believe me your being over paranoid! I have my opinion and time of 30 years of outboard motor use, maintenance and repair behind me, so whatever! The newer material is hardier, stop trying to be the GOD of the thread, many schools of thought and you have one! My Dad who has more experience than both of us put together use to turn his over couple times a year to hear it start up then turn it off on his bass boat! His impellers went 5 years before changing and were always fine when removed! Is it a good practice for ocean boats to wait 5 years or do that all the time, nope! But my opinion is based on my experience and of that of others! Sorry for the rant! Believe in whatever witchcraft you want that's your right!🍺 Chill out before you stroke out! And as far as 2 stroke oil, if it's old and has been in the remote containers it does clot and cause downstream issues, I've seen it many times on boats that have sat!

[stratos20]

Changed out the impeller, the old one was in bad shape but no broken or missing pieces. Tested on muffs and still could not get water out the telltale, maybe water flow wasn't strong enough? I will test on lake and report back.

[Solarman]

if your motor isn't overheating, look at the monitor, does it indicate overheating when you're running?

If you can find a piece of thick monofilament (maybe weed eater line) that will slide up the tell tale tube, while running on muffs, and give it some good pushes to see if an insect/bug may have crawled up the tube, or some corrosion and could be your problem.

If you did the impeller correctly, then you might try using a compressor to blow backwards up the tell tale tube. Ths may dislodge anything caught up there?

If these things don't seem to help, let us know.

Post back and tell us.

[seaox230c]

The newer 225's have a side remote flush port...don't know about one as old as yours..if it does, hook it up and run hose full blast...if water does not come out the pee hole your hose or pee hole is blocked

[stratos20]

The newer 225's have a side remote flush port...don't know about one as old as yours..if it does, hook it up and run hose full blast...if water does not come out the pee hole your hose or pee hole is blocked

Mine is a 95 does not have it.

[stratos20]

Well she started peeing again with good flow, again pee hole was clogged.

[Solarman]

Were you able to see what clogged it up? I have one motor that has a larger pee hole tube, if I leave a piece of thick line in it when not used, it is fine. If not seems something crawls in and builds a nest.

Has clearing the pee line helped with motor running?

Post back when able, like to know? Good luck.

[stratos20]

Well I'm back here again the boat has been sitting for a while due to work and other priorities, but I did manage to go for a ride today. It started right up at the ramp with no problem then gave her some throttle to let her warm up and I was able to hit 5500rpms for a short period of time and it felt great, then it backed down to 3200rpms and if I tried to go above that the rpms would surge like it was starving for fuel. Last thing I did on it was a water impeller change and the injectors were sent out to get cleaned and flow tested.

[Solarman]

OK. Now it is sounding like you have a problem with level of fuel in the VST bowl. Either you might have an obstruction in front of the float needle valve (restricting amount of fuel coming in to fill bowl), or the float setting is too low (?), or your low pressure fuel pump(s) are damaged (age-diaphragm leaking, trash-frm bad fuel, bad check-valves - cracked/broken)? If you have not inspected the internals of fuel pump(s), that might be a good place to start.

It has been a while since we looked at the entire thread here, but you may have to go through some of these same procedures again?

Good luck, will wait to hear back from you.