New member needing help with a 95 225 efi suzuki

[Solarman]

I agree about the charging coils. Maybe why the rectifier was damaged, but don't know if it would limit your motor to 3k RPMs? If you're testing by the manual, then try asking the boats.net ”moderator” if your magneto charging coils could do this (limit your RPMs)? Post to them your readings and ask them.

Good luck.

[stratos20]

I already bought a good used one so will test it out once I get it and see what kind of numbers I get.

[stratos20]

Tested the used one I and got almost the same readings, so def. not the stator. I will test the temp and oil switch and report back. Anything else I should check for?

[Solarman]

Yes, check your timing pulse coils, and gear counting coil. See if they all check out per the manual.

Let us know. Good luck.

[briscoe]

I may be off on suggestion, but

Have you looked at the possibility that your fuel injectors are plugged a little from that garbage in the tank. I don't know about 95 model, but it sounds so fuel related! Just my view, worth the price charged.

[stratos20]

Have you looked at the possibility that your fuel injectors are plugged a little from that garbage in the tank. I don't know about 95 model, but it sounds so fuel related! Just my view, worth the price charged.

I did, flushed them out and lots of crap came out of them.

[stratos20]

Yes, check your timing pulse coils, and gear counting coil. See if they all check out per the manual.

Let us know. Good luck.

Timing pulse coils and gear counting coil checked out per manual, I think this my be a fuel issue still. I will hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what I get. Fuel pressure should be within 35-38psi correct?

[Solarman]

I'd have to look at my manual (I think mine says ~28psi?), but that sounds about right (go by your manual).
Did you get any different readings on the battery charging coils, from the used stator?

It is possible it could be a fuel issue, but you described that it ran well at lower RPMs up to 3200 RPMs, and then wouldn't go higher. That sounded like it was more an electrical issue, that was very much like the high condenser charging coil.

If the fuel pressure is good, per your manual, then I need you to look up your TVS valve and how to test it. This may require a test wire?

Let us know how the fuel pressure checks out. Good luck. Post back when able.

[stratos20]

I'd have to look at my manual (I think mine says ~28psi?), but that sounds about right (go by your manual).
Did you get any different readings on the battery charging coils, from the used stator?

It is possible it could be a fuel issue, but you described that it ran well at lower RPMs up to 3200 RPMs, and then wouldn't go higher. That sounded like it was more an electrical issue, that was very much like the high condenser charging coil.

If the fuel pressure is good, per your manual, then I need you to look up your TVS valve and how to test it. This may require a test wire?

Let us know how the fuel pressure checks out. Good luck. Post back when able.

Readings from the used stator are almost the same, 2.2- 2.3ohms on the charging coils. I believe my voltmeter doesn't go that low since is a cheap one from HF. Will report back on the fuel pressure test thanks.

[stratos20]

Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, as soon as you turn the key on the pump comes on and I get 40psi then drops down to 0, isn't supposed to hold pressure for at least 5 mins? I did not see any leaks. Will test on water tomorrow and see.

[stratos20]

Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, as soon as you turn the key on the pump comes on and I get 40psi then drops down to 0, isn't supposed to hold pressure for at least 5 mins? I did not see any leaks. Will test on water tomorrow and see.

Could my problem be that I'm using a regular portable gas tank with the motor fuel line all the way down through the opening? Should I get a marine gas tank with its own hose and primer ball?

[Solarman]

If you didn't turn key off it should maintain what your book told you. If you turn key off and pressure drops, then fuel is probably returning to vst (normal).

[Moonlighter]

Could my problem be that I'm using a regular portable gas tank with the motor fuel line all the way down through the opening? Should I get a marine gas tank with its own hose and primer ball?

It is possible, I guess, for the end of the fuel hose to suck itself onto the tank bottom when fuel is being drawn through by the fuel pump. Starvation would be the result. Not unlike the symptoms you've been having....... I have seen that happen when syphoning a tank so is is plausible.

Probably this wouldn't stop fuel flow altogether, but might be enough to restrict it quite a bit especially at revs or under load. And as soon as the engine stops or drops back to idle, it might let go so fuel flows properly again. Which would make it very hard to diagnose.

Stranger things have happened!! A proper marine fuel tank does have its advantages!!!

Ummmm, also, how have you got where the hose goes into the tank sealed so fuel doesn't leak out when the boat is bouncing around?

And if you have got that fuel line entry sealed up somehow, how is the tank vented, so that as fuel is used, air can get in to replace the volume of fuel taken out???

Where I am heading with this is, that the fuel tank needs to be vented so that fuel can flow freely out, and air can flow freely into the tank as fuel leaves it. Otherwise you will soon get a situation where the vacuum created in the tank can overcome the fuel pump's ability to suck fuel to the engine.

You would expect to see the tank getting sucked out of shape in that case, unless it is a very rigid design. And of course, the faster the engine is running, the more fuel it sucks from the tank, and the greater the likelihood that it will starve the motor of fuel if the vent situation is not working or is restricted. Or, if the engine's fuel pump is a bit weak for some reason.......

If there is any chance that this is happening, then yes, get a proper marine fuel tank and connect up to it, and make sure the vent is open and the tank can breathe properly whenever the engine is running.

The primer bulb then does its job by pushing fuel up to the engine and then, because it has a one-way valve in it, prevents fuel running back to the tank whenever the fuel pump isn't actively pumping. So get a good quality fuel bulb, the best ones are made by Mercury as they have a proper valve in them, most others it's just a flapper valve. It is also best to position the bulb so it is angled upwards so the end leading to the engine is higher. This is required so the flapper style valves in particular actually work.

The other thing that springs to mind now that you've mentioned this fuel tank arrangement is the fuel hose from the tank to the engine. How new/old is it, and what size? A 225 2 stroke sucks fuel at a pretty significant rate, especially as the revs get higher, and if the fuel hose is either partially clogged or too small in the first place, then fuel starvation will, once again, be the result.

One final thing is that with that tank arrangement, have you got a water separating filter between the tank and the engine?? Not having one may explain why your injectors were full of junk. This should be considered as a mandatory requirement these days with the crappy fuel we so often get from poorly maintained tanks at gas stations. I personally would never contemplate not having one on my fuel line.

Hope this doesn't cover things already posted.

Best of luck getting it sorted.

[Solarman]

Yes stratos, that fuel can could be a problem. It might work ok for simple testing on muffs, but wouldn't consider running in the water due to all the variables (as explained by moonlighter above, not to mention the potential hazards). Of you aren't going to clean your fuel tank on the boat, then borrow, or buy a tank to use until you can clean it.

Another thought I have is, where are you testing your fuel rail pressure? Are you testing by the manual? Are you turning the key off, when pressure drops to 0 psi?

Post back when able. Good luck.

[stratos20]

If you didn't turn key off it should maintain what your book told you. If you turn key off and pressure drops, then fuel is probably returning to vst (normal).

With key on I get 40psi then drops back to 0 with key still on.