New member needing help with a 95 225 efi suzuki

[Bamahemi]

Good Luck! Solar ☝🏻! They don't call it a bOAT for nothing! You get it eventually!

[Solarman]

Do you have a Suzuki manual for your motor?

If not you need one. It will show you these things.

Post back.

[stratos20]

Got some good news she runs, tested on water today and I was able to throttle up to 3k rpm nice and steady, but she won't get past that? Installed the correct plugs and ran on portable tank again. It will get there eventually, for a boat that sat for a while and didn't run I think I've accomplished a lot so far. Thanks again to Solarman for taking the time in helping me get things sorted out.

[Solarman]

No not yet. Do you have a service manual?

The next thing to check would be the stator. You originally had a burned out rectifier, and i'm wondering if that was part of the damage caused by the stator?

So the check of your stator needs to be checked according to the service manual for your year and motor.

Post back when able. Everything you've done this far is good. But check stator before spending money on other areas for now. Good luck.

Another possibility that may cause not going over 3k RPMs in neutral, or in gear is the shifr position sensor/ switch, located on the motor at the shift linkage. If this sensor is bad, or stuck in neutral position, it limits motor to 3k.

Post back when you can check these items listed. Will wait to hear.good luck.

[stratos20]

Another possibility that may cause not going over 3k RPMs in neutral, or in gear is the shifr position sensor/ switch, located on the motor at the shift linkage. If this sensor is bad, or stuck in neutral position, it limits motor to 3k.

Post back when you can check these items listed. Will wait to hear.good luck.

Are you talking about the neutral switch? I cannot find a shift position switch for this motor.

[ORKA 600]

advice given to me.

hi I have a 98 efi 150,also giving trouble but that's a different story.when I first encountered problems members advised me to get the oil level /warning gauge.if there are fault codes flashing up or warning beeps on remotes then the engine could be going into failsafe mode,engine will run but you wont get past 2000rpm.oil flow sensor,tps, map sensor, air pressure sensor and oil level sensor will all trigger this.try to eliminate these before looking at bigger issues.
hope you find something.

[Solarman]

Stratos, in 95, they might not have started using the shift position sensor yet? If you have it, it would be mounted at the shift linkage on the motor to limit RPMs to 3k if in neural. If this switch/ sensor is out of adjustment, or not working properly (bad), then even if in forward gear the motor thinks it's still in neutral.

Since you had a bad rectifier when you first started repairs, I am thinking you may have a problem with your high condenser charging coil (one of the coils in your stator/ magneto). The high condenser charge coil operates your motor at higher RPMs, the low condenser charge coil operates for lower rpms. To test this coil you will need the manual for your motor, it will have a wiring schematic for your motor. This will tell you the wire colors of your high condenser charge coil, how to test, and what ohms it should read (if good).

If the coil is bad you will have to find another magneto/stator, but check the wires and test it first.

Post back when you can test this coil.

[stratos20]

Here is the output from the 3 yellow wires coming from the magento/stator.

1- 4.2 ohms
2- 4.1 ohms
3- 1 ohms (could not get a reading from this one)

Does this make any sense at all at, did I do it right?

[Solarman]

Stratos, there are a number of wires coming from under your flywheel. If you don't have a wiring schematic, how can you tell you have the right wires to test? I can't tell you which wires are on your coils without the schematic.

According to the parts pic, it appears that your magneto was used on the dt150, dt175, dt200, and your dt225.

You might be able to google a wiring schematic for your magneto part number? If you can get the wiring diagram, I can help you identify which wires you need to test.

Good luck.

[stratos20]

I thought these 3 yellow wires were the ones to check since they come from the stator itself and plug into the rectifier through bullet connectors? These are also the ones that are burned by the way.

[stratos20]

The 3 yellow wires I checked are the battery charge coil so I need to check the ones from the condenser charge coil correct?

[Solarman]

Ok, turn magneto over, and take a closer pic.
I think we're looking for 4 wires, and think they are (low condenser charge coil wires) black/green & black/red, then I think the high condenser charge wires are white/blue & white/red? See if these 2 pairs go to two different coils on the magneto?

If I am right on the colored pairs, test each pair together (black/green & black/red, then test white/blue & white/red), then test each wire to ground. Post your info, and three new pic when able.

Past back.

[stratos20]

How about these 2 pictures?

[Solarman]

Ok good pics. Your low & high condenser charge coils are the two yellow insulated coils. It is tied to the 4 plug connector + the bullet connector.

It looks like the two white striped wires will go to the high condenser coil.

If I can get seaox230c to get online here, he might be able to tell you the best way to test your coils, he went through his coils extensively. You might read his post, by doing an advanced search for ” missing at speeds” by seaox230c. It might help you understand how the coils work?

Post back after.

[stratos20]

Did some more testing.

Per suzuki manual:

condenser low side (green-black/red wire) 62-92ohms got 75
condenser high side (white/red-white/blue) 385-575ohms got 457
batt charge coil (yellow to yellow) 0.1-0.3ohms got 2.2-2.3-2.3 they are not shorted to ground

high and low condenser seem to be within spec but the batt charge coil is way too high??