DT140 water pump mistery

[tybee2]

yes, another thing i don't own yet: an extractor tool.

need to put some sort of lubricant/penetrating oil on those bolts for a day or so before i attempt the extraction. neighbor swears by Kroil and he rebuilds old tractors for fun.

with the bolts being on the vertical, getting the oil in the right spot will be amusing.

and on we go...probably be a few weeks before i attempt it...

[Solarman]

If you heat the area around the studs that broke off, the penetrating lube should boil into the threads (only hot enough to boil the lubricant). If able to grab with vise-grips, working carefully back-n-forth, with lube and heat, you will win. Other wise you must drill and extract. If drilling, Art is right about Center-punching (exact center) using black cobalt bits for stainless (large as possible, but smaller than threads) with oil on bit often as you drill.
There are some good products around that should be used when putting the bolts back in, a new one moonlighter mentioned in another post (I'll try and look it up), sounds like great anti-corrosion coating for bolts.

Also, any blockage in the exhaust water jacket that affects water flow to the outlet at the top of exhaust area, affects cooling of all cylinders, not just the top one.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

[artdf175]

I have not seen the heating trick, but can sure see how that would work now that you explained it..
I would expect that upon cooling the lubricant gets sucked into the threads
will remember that for the next time
Thanks..
art.

[Solarman]

I believe expansion/ contraction plays the largest part art. Heating the aluminum and bolt till hot, then spraying lubricant at base of threads, then heating more, boiling lube will work up the threads. But corroded bolts in aluminum are extremely tough. Drilling stainless bolts/studs in soft aluminum isn't fun either. Very easy to screw up, and go off center.

Good luck tybee.

[Stu789]

Mission accomplished

Hi Solarman (finally). I followed your instructions last year and made the repair but without removing the bearing cap. I had to add some gasket maker to some of the warn openings, but got everything together. However, I was unable to make a test run before winterizing. This summer I had to work on the house, just finished, and got the boat back in the water a few days ago. Yesterday (11/2/16) I finally got a chance to make a test run. I ran up the river at 4400 rpm for about an half hour. Everything worked fine. I just hope the gasket maker holds out. Thanks for all the help. Sorry for the long wait for my final results.

[Solarman]

Not a problem on my end, am glad the results are in, and successful. I am not sure how long gasket sealer will hold either. In the future, the best repairs on any of the aluminum structure, or webbing that has been eaten/ corroded is to have those areas welded by a good aluminum welder. They can cut those sections out, then repair or replace them easily, and there are many aluminum welders around most cities here in the USA.

Glad it is working fine for now, but don't let your motor sit idle too long, they seem to last longer if used frequently. And tend to fall apart/ rust/ deteriorate if just left sitting.

Good luck, happy boating.

[Solarman]

Not a problem on my end, am glad the results are in, and successful. I am not sure how long gasket sealer will hold either. In the future, the best repairs on any of the aluminum structure, or webbing that has been eaten/ corroded is to have those areas welded by a good aluminum welder. They can cut those sections out, then repair or replace them easily, and there are many aluminum welders around most cities here in the USA.

Glad it is working fine for now, but don't let your motor sit idle too long, they seem to last longer if used frequently. And tend to fall apart/ rust/ deteriorate if just left sitting.

Good luck, happy boating.

[Solarman]

Not a problem on my end, am glad the results are in, and successful. I am not sure how long gasket sealer will hold either. In the future, the best repairs on any of the aluminum structure, or webbing that has been eaten/ corroded is to have those areas welded by a good aluminum welder. They can cut those sections out, then repair or replace them easily, and there are many aluminum welders around most cities here in the USA.

Glad it is working fine for now, but don't let your motor sit idle too long, they seem to last longer if used frequently. And tend to fall apart/ rust/ deteriorate if just left sitting.

Good luck, happy boating.

[Stu789]

.So, after replacing the sub water pick up gaskets and filling in the expanded openings with gasket maker, it ran fine for a few months. I took it apart again but couldn't figure out what wasn't holding. So I decided I didn't need the extra water from the sub water pick up, took out the sub water pick up tube and blocked off the openings with scrap aluminum. I used a two part marine cold weld material to attach the aluminum. Just sea tested it for 4 miles at 4000rpm. (6/5/2018) So far it's good. Holding together and not overheating.

[Solarman]

Thanks Stu for the update. Some motors (115's) did not have the sub-water pickup, just a blank plate for that area. Some parts pages show that blank plate for certain models is available? But if your motor isnt overheating, then I think you're good to go.

Hope all is well, happy boating.