Forum Resource: Suzuki NMEA2000 Networks

[Moonlighter]

Jeff,
You've got 2.90 MR449R ours is MR449A. So calls for an upgrade

Updates are happening all the time - some, to fix bigs, some, to provide new functionality, some are just to cater for the latest model year engines being added.

We have found on several occasions that the interface software updates are designed to work with the latest version engines and in many cases, do not work well with engines even a year or two old. For example, Version 2.9.0 was touted as being the version that would work properly with any model year engine, but it soon became apparent that it wouldn't play with some earlier models and even some models as recent as 2011.

Jeff, if you now find that the current version you've got installed is working accurately for you, my suggestion is to leave it alone.

The risk of doing an update to the latest version is that it may not work. Especially if the update notes don't indicate any additional features or functionality. The old adage of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is worth remembering with this stuff!

[keizerh]

Update of ours ofcourse, not Jeff's.
We still have issues (wrong engine and phantom engines again).

[2014DF25ARS]

SMIS fuel usage update

Just thought I'd report that my SMIS 4" gauge is working fine since the s/w upgrade to the gauge and the engine cable. I've calibrated the fuel use a couple times now, and it's within 5% of what I get at the pump. (Is that what you ozzies refer to as "the bowser"?)

I'm really enjoying the info from the gauge. I've learned that my peak fuel economy is approx. 23 MPG, which IMHO is pretty amazing. Unfortunately I get that at around 4,000 RPM which is barely planing in my 13 ft tinny. I usually run around 5,000 RPM, where the gauge tells me I'm getting about 17 Miles/Gallon @ around 23-24 MPH.

Moonlighter pointed out that I should use at least 5 gals of fuel whenever I calibrate the gauge, but honestly it's hard for me to use that much fuel! I only carry 6 gallons (in 2 3-gal tanks), and I can't go far enough on my lake to use it up. 6 gallons usually lasts me through a long weekend. I'm really impressed with the efficiency of the DF25A on my boat. Loving it, really.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Moonlighter]

Good stuff Jeff!

Yes, bowser = pump.

Your accuracy is very good, especially when such small quantities are involved - the small quantities mean that even a slight change in the angle of the tank means that you might have a few cupfulls of difference between what was "full" last time and the most recent fill.

Generally its recommended to calibrate no more than 3 or 4 times, then leave it alone.

Re your rpm, the only thought is to do a prop test to see what rpm you get at full throttle (WOT is the acronym, wide open throttle). If you're hitting the rev limiter at WOT, then you could change to a prop with more pitch and this could give you a lower cruise speed rpm reading while still maintaining acceleration.

But, if you change prop pitch, you MUST still ensure that the engine can reach its max rpm at WOT, otherwise you will be lugging the engine and it will be slow to get out of the hole and onto the plane.

[2014DF25ARS]

I've been using the 11-pitch aluminum prop that came with the motor, and it seems like a good fit for my boat. WOT is around 5850 RPM @ 28 MPH, but I only get10-12 MPG at WOT, so I usually cruise at 5000 RPM.

I tried a 9-pitch Al prop and hit the 6200 RPM rev limit quickly with it, but lost 3-4 MPH at WOT. I had assumed the motor would run smoothly up to the rev limit and just not go faster, but it started running stupid at the rev limit, sputtering and all, so I realized there's really no point in operating near the limit, because as soon as you touch the limit all the fun disappears. So my goal now is to max around 6000 RPM rather than 6200, leaving a little cushion to the limit.

A new SS 11-pitch prop showed up on my porch this afternoon. I'm hoping to test it this weekend. I was hoping it might provide the small improvement in efficiency to reach 6000 RPM, but I've been reading that I might actually lose 100 RPM due to cupping typical of SS props. Anxious to find out soon. The gauge is really useful for evaluating prop performance.

A couple weeks ago I was cruising with another boat similar to mine. He was running a 1956 Evinrude 30 HP motor, and he was able to pull slightly away from me at WOTabout 29.5 MPH. I'm determined to beat him with my 25 HP plastic 4-stroke motor next time we meet! I gotta find that last 200 RPM hiding in my motor.

Jeff

[Moonlighter]

Thanks Jeff, let us know how the new prop goes! There is really a bit of mystery in changing from alloy to stainless, as even though the dia and pitch might be the same, the blade size and shape is usually quite different on stainless props. So the result is never as predictable as people might have you believe.

Despite that, I will make a bold prediction: you'll get some more top end and revs and should be able to trim the motor out further, improving economy. But better still, the boat will get out of the hole better and general performance in turns etc will be better. But then again, it could be the exact opposite effect! LOL!

If you want to get all scientific, we normally do a table up where we record at every 500rpm interval from idle to WOT:

Engine revs
GPS speed
Fuel economy

Then we do a "time to 5000rpm" acceleration test where we idle in gear, then hit the throttle hard and time how long it takes to reach 5000rpm, this Gives you a good handle on hole-shot performance.

Looking forward to the results!

[mmanuel]

Great thread

Jeff,
Thanks for sharing all this info on the "A" motors, it looks too be the answer to my issues too. Pictures would be terrific, if you could email them to me it would be greatly appreciated. I have the EIC but its short and I too just plugged it into the remote harness. Hopefully I can use it to connect to the SDS and run a long N2K cable to my back bone. Thanks again!

Matt

[keizerh]

You don't want n2k plus the interface under your hood.
Also the trim connector of the interface must be plugged in your wire harness.
Just buy some connectors, cable and make your own cable.
It is only three wires.

[tomsweet]

Installing LMF200

I have 2-250hp 2007 Suzuki engines and I want to replace the original 2000Suzuki gauges with Lowrence LMF200 gauges. The cables have been updated within the last year. What new adaptor/software etc do I need to complete the installation?

[Aln2202]

C-10 connection

With 4 C-10 gauges connected to network and the networked powered to main switch how much battery drain will there be?
Meaning the network is powered without engines on will they light up and kill the battery while on an overtime chunking trip?
Can the network get its power from a house battery and still have the motors on a starting battery?

[Moonlighter]

Yes, you can power the network from the house battery, eg on a separate switch. Just remember to turn it on first when the engines are to be turned on.

You can also get a Suzuki dual power node to power the network - basically its a smart power source that allows you to power the network from 2 sources, so that if one source (eg the engines) are turned off, it will automatically revert to the alternative source (eg from the house battery would be an option). But it only uses one source at a time.

[Moonlighter]

I am going to lock this thread now, as its becoming too long and its too easy to miss new requests for information here.

If youve fot a query about Suzuki NMEA2000 networks, please read the documents attached to the first post and then, if youre still not sure, start a new thread in the forum.

Moonlighter

Update May 2016

Important message!

I am told by US based Suzuki dealers that the new interface cable versions that have part numbers ending in -290 or -350 cannot be downgraded to versions below 2.9.0.

So if you need to use an earlier version (eg with engines 2009 and earlier in particular) get in quickly and find a dealer that can supply the old version cable that is downgradable to V 2.5 or lower.

I am talking to a couple of dealers and hope that they can prevail upon their Suzuki reps to do something about this issue.

Stay tuned.....

[Moonlighter]

Update at January 2018.

The old model Suzuki interface cables that can run software versions earlier than V2.9.0 and which are often necessary on engines earlier than 2010 are no longer available to buy new in Australia. Which brings us into line with what happened in the USA a couple of years ago. The only cables availabe to buy new from your Suzuki dealer in Aus or the USA will be new model cables running V 2.9.0 for motors up to 2012, and V 3.5.0 for 2013 and later. These cables cannot be “flashed” to any other versions.

If you need a Suzuki engine interface cable for an engine earlier than 2010 year, your choices are therefore:

1. Try to find a used cable in good condition - the best source will be Suzuki dealers who do lots of repowers and who have old cables from those jobs.

2. You could try using a new model cable running V 2.9.0 software. But - the earlier model your motor is, the less chance of it working properly (especially giving accurate fuel data including correct fuel flow, fuel used, fuel remaining). Motors from 2007 and earlier will be the most problematic.

[Moonlighter]

Added a link in the first post on this thread to the installation manual for the international (not USA) Suzuki colour gauge.