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2003 Suzuki DF 140 EFI. If I move the throttle back and forth while turning the key it makes contact at some point and the motor will start and run fine. I believe my problem is with the neutral switch in the remote (see att't) but I can't figure out how to get to it. I need to remove the remote cover but I don't see how that will come off and I don't want to break it by prying on the plastic. I looked below the console and I don't see any fasteners coming thru the console to hold the remote in place. There is one indentation down near the bottom of the remote on the side I can get to that should have a nut or screw but there is none just a hole. There is a sticker that says push to open above the hole. I don't know how long the jiggling the throttle will work to get started and don't want to get stranded and bring it to a shop this time of year means not having the boat for a few weeks so any help would be greatly appreciated. I did look at a manual for the remote but all it says is "Remove cover A and B", a little more info on how to remove them would have been great.
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The black plastic cover slides up, the small holes at bottom edge are where the cover snaps over small tits that hold cover on. Should just squeeze the top and bottom of cover and pop it up.
You may have two NSS, either one could be causing your starting problems. Look at the shift linkage on starboard side of motor. There should be a shift sensor, and maybe a second NSS switch in same area. Either NSS will prevent motor from cranking, the shift sensor does not affect starter cranking. It may just be an adjustment needed for NSS on motor (if have 2), if remote activates when moving back and forth?
Good luck. Post back when able, on what you find out. -
I thought that was the way to remove the cover but it just didn't want to budge, thanks for the reply. Anyway, I got it off, pulled up the assemble and removed the neutral switch. It checked out ok. I cycled the throttle back and forth but I didn't see anything that didn't look right. I did bend the up the stud on the switch that wasn't connected to anything thinking the linkage may have to make contact with the it to close the circuit even though I could not see this happening when I worked the throttled. I put the switch back in and now I still have to move the throttle a little to get it to start but it's a huge improvement over what I had before, I'll live with it.
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If you know how to use a test light you will find the problem in ten minutes. Hook up a test light and turn the key to the start position and you should have battery voltage on both sides of the brown wire on the switch. If you have voltage on both sides go to the switch on the motor same deal, it probably needs adjusting.Comment
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