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2015 DF115 California Emissions

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  • 2015 DF115 California Emissions

    My new 2015 DF115 has a California Emission compliant sticker on it. I do not live in California. Does anybody know what the difference between the California and Non-California emission DF115 is?

    With all of the two strokes on the lake, I don't think I'm going to save the world with a cleaner motor, so I'd like to see if I can remove whatever the California adds and regain performance and/or fuel economy.

  • #2
    The only difference is the sticker!

    Suzuki doesn't make one version of their engines for California and another version for elsewhere. I am pretty sure that the current models are both certified for California/US emissions as well as EU standards - and most international emission standards are being aligned these days anyway.

    We get exactly the same motors here in Australia that you get anywhere in the U.S.

    Further, you can't remove the "emission control" stuff off the engines any more like you could in the early days. It is fundamentally incorporated into the design, electronics and all these systems are totally integrated, so even if you tried to take one thing off, it would stuff up the system and the engine simply wouldn't run properly, or at all.

    The modern design of your engine now is far more fuel efficient than the earlier pre-emission engines anyway. And they perform better too. So even if you could wind back the clock, you would go slower and use more gas! The latest A series motors (2012 and newer) are around 10-15% more fuel efficient than their predecessors!

    Bottom line: forget about the sticker, or take it off if it bothers you. Go enjoy your boat.
    Last edited by Moonlighter; 07-10-2015, 02:02 AM.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info. Getting ready to take it in for 20 hour service. Going to have them adjust the throttle, lubricate the steering and drop the motor down a couple holes to allow me to adjust trim. Currently if I trim up at all it starts to ventilate immediately. I'm thinking having it sit lower will fix the problem.

      Any other thoughts for adjustments or checks at 20 hour service?

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      • #4
        Be careful about dropping it down too low. Can lose a lot of speed and affect fuel economy. Check first to see if there is something creating turbulence that is affecting the prop.

        If you are running an alloy prop, consider getting a stainless one, they grip much better. The Zuke alloy props are, well, pretty average...... I run a Suzuki 3x 14 x 20" on my 115. Goes sweet. You need to prop the motor so it hits at least 6000rpm at WOT. I get 6250 light and 6100 with a normal load on board.

        Why adjusting throttle? Too tight?
        Last edited by Moonlighter; 07-09-2015, 07:19 PM.

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        • #5
          I've been thinking about a stainless prop. Might get one if I can scrape some cash together. It came with the factory 17 pitch prop on it. It doesnt go more than about 5200 RPM with a light load so I think I could put a 15 pitch on it.

          The throttle does not allow for smooth adjustments in the 1200-2000 RPM range. If you don't tightly hold the throttle to move it smoothly, it will jump straight from about 900RPM idle to 2100 RPM. I'm thinking an adjustment could help. Maybe the lower pitch prop could help as well. Any thoughts? I don't think my dealer did a great job rigging this boat (22'x8'6" pontoon- 25" logs with lifting strakes). They seemed to be having some staffing issues earlier this year during our purchase and might not have had the best people rigging the boat.

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          • #6
            If it will only hit 5200 at full throttle, that is very bad and it will reduce your engine life significantly.

            As I said earlier, these engines really do need to be propped to hit 6000rpm, they will then perform much better across the whole rev range and will get better economy too. I can't stress how important this is.

            I'd suggest you have a good talk to the dealer when you take it in for service. Maybe they will have some more time now to help get things set up right for you. I really don't know anything about pontoon boats, so maybe the engine does need to be dropped one or more holes.

            The stainless props do have the ability to hang on much better than alloy props. the dealer should be able to help select a prop diameter and pitch suitable for your pontoon boat. If they can't, message Ken at the Propgods.com and give him details of your boat (weight, length, pontoon details etc) and engine and he will give you some good advice and good prices too.

            The throttle situation should be fixed with some adjustment - it sounds like something in the linkages is not right, as it should be a silky smooth transition all the way.

            Good luck, let us know how you go.

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