2006 SUZUKI DF140 4 STROKE stall

[Randys]

First time user, my 140 will stall and not start i cant get it into anyone for 3 weeks so i will try this forum. I have it in to one shop that spent 6 hrs no solution found. The engine starts fine when cold but if it runs for 10 mins or long it wont restart. Last year the problem was i had to throttle it up to start but that doesn't work now. Basically if you run it for 5 mins shut it off it wont start. items checked already:
-Plugs replaced
-fuel filter checked
-spark is good
-fuel pressure good ( 40 psi)
-did diagnostic download no codes
-compression test good

Any ideas?
Tks RANDY

[redlowrey]

Is the motor stopping on it's own, or when you stop it, it won't restart. Have you checked and made sure the injectors are switching, if you don't know how to too, crank the engine over for thirty seconds and pull the plugs out and see if they are wet. When you say you had to throttle it to start are you talking about the throttle or the warm up leaver, if you are using the throttle, you should not be able to crank it over in neutral. If you are getting good spark and the injectors are spraying fuel it should start, push the warm up lever all the way and make sure it is opening the throttle.

[Solarman]

Shouldn't crank engine for more than 5 - 8 seconds at a time, to many amps for 30 seconds will overheat windings in starter.

Might try cleaning map sensor and orifice, may be dirty (but would that throw a code?)?
Could iac valve be sticking, dirty?
Or, a vapor lock?

Just thoughts.

Good luck.

[redlowrey]

Shouldn't crank engine for more than 5 - 8 seconds at a time, to many amps for 30 seconds will overheat windings in starter.

Might try cleaning map sensor and orifice, may be dirty (but would that throw a code?)?
Could iac valve be sticking, dirty?
Or, a vapor lock?

Just thoughts.

Good luck.

Solarman, this is true but I want to know if the injectors are switching, it wont hurt the starter, how much cranking do you think this starter has had when one shop had it for six hours. Most of the people that ask for help on this forum are not capable of changing a light globe let alone understand how to diagnose complex electronic circuits, sensors, and actuators.

[Solarman]

Red, I understand cumulative starting time, but 30 seconds at one time is too many amps for any starter.

Randy, red will be a bit more knowledgeable on what might be wrong with your 4 stroke than I can be. just don't hold the starter on for more than 8 seconds at a time, and give it 4 - 5 minutes cooling time between starts. No need to buy a new starter.

Good luck.

[Moonlighter]

Randy, have you checked the port side of the engine just above the flushing port for the dreaded engine holder corrosion that is a known problem on that model engine? If it's corroded through it would be letting exhaust gas under the cowl and choking the engine. Usually it will start with the cowl off.

Anyway it's worth checking for this problem. You may need to take the lower side covers off the engine to get a good look at the plug involved (looks like a welsh plug). Hot gases escaping may also damage wiring around the same area.

The SDS system can be used to check and verify the operation of the injectors, so I presume your dealer checked that?

[Randys]

Is the motor stopping on it's own, or when you stop it, it won't restart. Have you checked and made sure the injectors are switching, if you don't know how to too, crank the engine over for thirty seconds and pull the plugs out and see if they are wet. When you say you had to throttle it to start are you talking about the throttle or the warm up leaver, if you are using the throttle, you should not be able to crank it over in neutral. If you are getting good spark and the injectors are spraying fuel it should start, push the warm up lever all the way and make sure it is opening the throttle.

It usually will finally stall yes the there is fuel to the plugs, and the"warm up lever" does get more fuel to the engine.

[Randys]

okat thanks i will try that.

[Randys]

okay got it thanks

[Randys]

Randy, have you checked the port side of the engine just above the flushing port for the dreaded engine holder corrosion that is a known problem on that model engine? If it's corroded through it would be letting exhaust gas under the cowl and choking the engine. Usually it will start with the cowl off.

Anyway it's worth checking for this problem. You may need to take the lower side covers off the engine to get a good look at the plug involved (looks like a welsh plug). Hot gases escaping may also damage wiring around the same area.

The SDS system can be used to check and verify the operation of the injectors, so I presume your dealer checked that?

okay i will try it with the cowling off to be sure. tks!

[Randys]

Randy, have you checked the port side of the engine just above the flushing port for the dreaded engine holder corrosion that is a known problem on that model engine? If it's corroded through it would be letting exhaust gas under the cowl and choking the engine. Usually it will start with the cowl off.

Anyway it's worth checking for this problem. You may need to take the lower side covers off the engine to get a good look at the plug involved (looks like a welsh plug). Hot gases escaping may also damage wiring around the same area.

The SDS system can be used to check and verify the operation of the injectors, so I presume your dealer checked that?

Yes they said they checked the injectors and hight fuel pressure. Thanks

[Randys]

Hello Again i tried starting it again with the cowling off and it started again no problem as it always does warmed it up using first the throttle lever then putting it in gear was a bit lumpy sounding when i first started it then it was fine ran for about 5 mins shut it off ... no start tried to fire on the first couple turn overs then nothing tried also to throttle it didnt help.. any more ideas? Thanks Randy

[Randys]

Is the motor stopping on it's own, or when you stop it, it won't restart. Have you checked and made sure the injectors are switching, if you don't know how to too, crank the engine over for thirty seconds and pull the plugs out and see if they are wet. When you say you had to throttle it to start are you talking about the throttle or the warm up leaver, if you are using the throttle, you should not be able to crank it over in neutral. If you are getting good spark and the injectors are spraying fuel it should start, push the warm up lever all the way and make sure it is opening the throttle.

No actually the engine will run fine one time it stopped after running it for about an hr but no it will run on its own and the tech that looked at it said he checked the injector's said he sprayed then on a piece of cardboard and said they were fine? I appreciate your help thanks.

[Randys]

Sorry if i am not being clear, but it starts when cold only, when it starts its ruff but will get better, i can push the warm up leaver up if done slowly and it will rev up ( so i guess its working) the same with the throttle. But if i shut it off it wont restart. The shop i had it into said the injectors are working as well hope this helps. thanks.

[Moonlighter]

You didn't answer my question about the engine holder corrosion? Have you checked that?