175 power to Ign SW but none coming out

[Oysterpirate]

Hi there, Running a problem with a 175 on a Triumph. Two batteries, load test good less than one year old. Ck'd connections at Batt SW, one was loose but no corrosion. Power confirmed to ing switch on white lead switch brings power out to two with ohm meter. Problem no power to instruments, anywhere. Engine trim works from motor power to starter and white wire fuse and wire seem good with power to motor. Im just guessing there is a relay or fuse somewhere I have not found yet. Looking for diagram from helm to motor and hopefully something with resistance if there is something. Still thinking ignition sw might be faulty but just guessing. The deadman sw is working fine. At the first attempt lights came on showing voltage being very week and died. Then checked batteries and the rest is history.Thanks for your help in advance.

John

[artdf175]

Sounds like the usual problem with the main power lead from battery to helm
The white lead to helm has a inline fuse that needs to be checked
I think there are a number of configureations of where this white wire lands in the helm My lead ties into the main power bar under the dash then to the remote control and ignition switch
If you have no power to helm track back the white wire to find where the bad connection is Can be the inline fuse when I had the same problem it was the connection off the main lead from the battery switch The short pigtail that connects to the white wire the spice went bad
Good luck and give us some feedback
Art

[Solarman]

Art i'm confused, thought he had power to switch, but nothing out of switch? Don't gauges work off the switch? Would that mean a bad switch? But then too, he says he has power at white wire at motor?
Think ill leave this to you big guys in electrical. Lol

Good luck.

[artdf175]

Hi Grant
the only guage that is powered through the switch is the RPM and hour meter for me.. or for others the SMIS(?) guage..
the no power trim from remote at helm tells you there is a break in the connection.. the power trim switch at the helm works independantly from ignition switch.. if the white wire is powered -the trim switch will work regardless of position of ignition switch..
the comment about lights being weak and then going out is, to me, indictive of a bad splice joint.. corroded wiring with limited ability to get voltage through, a push on wire connectection that has come loose, oh and/or a bad ground --
there are two white power connections to the engine..the important one that makes thing come alive is through the remote.. yes it could be an bad ignition switch - but with no power to the instruments -no trim-that problem needs to be found first..
Art..

[Harper]

Hi Art.....that's not grant, that's Ralph .

Oysterpirate, I have a Triumph, too. There are several fuses under the console, along with one 30 amp breaker. The breaker wouldn't be the problem, else everything would be dead. There is a small mini-blade 10 amp fuse that I replaced once that cured the same problem. As I recall, it didn't even look blown. Is your Triumph equipped with Faria gauges, as my 2008 was? If so, your problem is probably boat-specific, and not Suzuki-specific. Unless the new owners are better, Triumph has never been known for great electrical setups.

If you belong to the Triumph owners' forum, you might pose you question there, too. Lots of good Triumph knowledge there.

[Oysterpirate]

Thanks for the ideas. Im guessing some connection also or ignition switch boat issue. Just trying to find what Triumph did when they built it. There is a 15amp fuse at the transom where the engine gets its battery feed and a separate white wire getting power from somewhere else. I will track down why I have no power feeding the throttle trim switch to run the trim on the motor, should be a larger feed and might bump into the other issue.

Thanks
John

[Oysterpirate]

Harper
Any idea where than particular fuse is? Interestingly I have found fuses I never new existed. They set them in some interesting places. Having an actual fuse panel might be in this boats future.

Thanks

[artdf175]

[QUOTE=Harper;17010]Hi Art.....that's not grant, that's Ralph .

Well a momentary senior moment!!!
Actually I don't remember if I had seen Ralph's name before.. Sorry Ralph

John if there are any of wire splices with the end to end crimp connectors make sure to check them closely or even consider re-doing them, especially if in an area that may be exposed to the elements The problem I had was where the crimp connection was holding onto the insulation the wire inside was gone
I found this problem by accident as I was pulling on wires trying to separate te wiring
Good luck

[Harper]

Harper
Any idea where than particular fuse is? Interestingly I have found fuses I never new existed. They set them in some interesting places. Having an actual fuse panel might be in this boats future.

Thanks

I don't really remember exactly where the fuse was, except that it was in an inline holder somewhere amongst that gaggle of wires behind the dash. Might have been behind the dry storage pocket under the console that is held at the top by those twist locks. Just a small red mini-blade fuse.

As you've indicated you're going to do and as Art mentions also, you'll just have to start systematically checking all the wiring/switch/fuse possibilties. And don't forget those breakers beside each of the switches. I've had several of those fail.

So you mentioned in the first post that you are runnng a DF175. Do you have a 215CC? I have a 195CC with DF150. I'd have gotten the DF175 had it been available, but I bought one of the few 195s left in the country after the Genmar bankruptcy, and drove to NC to pick it up and towed it home to TX. The newer 195s are only rated for 150HP, but the placard on mine says 175HP max.

Edit: never mind the questions....I see you've signed on to the Triumph Owners' forum now. Hope you enjoy it...