DT115 Lower Unit Teardown

[ScubaSteve]

With the prop housing out and since I'm still waiting for a few parts, I'm taking the next 2 days to paint the lower half of the gear case. Did a light sand, TSP , then applied several light coats of zinc-chromate primer. Charcoal grey top coat should go on tomorrow.


See the pic of the old vs. new prop housing. Outer seal and housing have seen better days.

[dj_movers]

Nice pictures! You gotta love that zinc-chromate...

[Solarman]

Great paint job. Thought you had removed the prop housing, to replace seal? This pic shows it still on?

Still don't understand why I can't see the other pics, this one came through fine?

Or, is this dj's pic... Maybe that's why I can see it? Scubasteves pics i'm not getting.

[ScubaSteve]

Solarman, does it work for you only if I post as an attachment?
Let me know if you can see these.

[ScubaSteve]

dj..that paint job came out great!...did you do a top coat yet?
I'm going with some charcoal grey Rustoleum...color match is close enough for me...we'll see about the durability

I wish I had your skeg....looks like you hit a few less rocks than the previous owner of mine.

[Solarman]

Those pics came out fine. I can see!! Lol

Ok. looks like your seal is toast. But the housing doesn't appear to be in terrible shape? from my view.

Good pics, can zoom right in close. Thnx.

[Solarman]

Yes pics are there, thnx. ScubaSteve you can have those small spots repaired. Take it to a weld shop that can weld aluminum (heliarc, I think it's called). But they can fill in small areas like that for probably less than $50. Or, you can grind it down carefully to smooth it out some. You might wait till you seal it up, they can weld on that part of the skeg without damaging any seals, or anything inside.

Just thought I'd let you know yours would be an easy fix. Just had my brothers skeg repaired for $150, he ripped his half off 1” below the case more than 90° bent back. The welder cut it off the rest of way shaped the torn area heated the broken part, hammered it back flat, shaped the broken edge to match the other edge. Then tacked it in place and welded it back, then ground the weld down. Looked good as new. We bought a can of paint touched it up, looks just like it did before.

[ScubaSteve]

The old housing is definitely serviceable, along with the bearings.
I'll probably clean it up, repack with grease, replace the seal and either sell it on ebay or keep as a spare.

Good info on the skeg. I'm tempted to file it down smooth but I would like for it to look original. Once I get it all pieced together I'll see if I can find a local welder to repair it. Thanks

[dj_movers]

No top coat yet. I have a great welder who worked on mine if you are anywhere near me. Mine outboard was pre-charcoal. Enclosed is a sample picture of the proper color.

Regards,

David

[ScubaSteve]

Looks great. I touched up a few spots that were corroded. Gonna leave the rest as-is.

Got a question for you about the water pump housing. The casing that goes over the impeller: should there be a grommet/O-ring inside the opening for the driveshaft?

[Solarman]

I believe the impeller acts as the seal for the driveshaft. Parts page doesn't show a seal either.

Post back if you find one I missed? I don't recall one on my motors either. But them again, I didn't know there was an option without the sub water pipe either.lol

Good luck.

[dj_movers]

Agreed. There was no additional grommet/seal on the shaft at the water pump case on my year at least.

David

[ScubaSteve]

I agree with you both. It appears that the hub of the impeller would seal the top of the housing around the driveshaft. Hoping to have it all back together by this weekend. I'll post more pics once I get there. Thanks for your help dj and Solarman

[dj_movers]

May the force be with you!