'99 DT115 Trim/Tilt Rebuild

[ScubaSteve]

May as well jump right in for my first post.

Quick history: Bought a '95 Sunbird Neptune and '99 DT115 in August 2013.
Motor has been running great since I got it. End of last season I noticed an oil slick behind the boat that kept getting worse. Pulled the boat in November and left the trim/tilt for warm weather.......

Fast forward to this week.
Spring has sort of sprung in the NE so I decided to tackle my leaky trim unit.
The dust seals on top of the tilt cap and both trim caps appeared to be compromised. I decided to (regrettably) remove the whole unit from the boat for easier access. After several days which resulted in the use of a torch and lots of yelling, I was able to remove (cut out) the lower mounting pin.

I now have the trim unit on the bench and can't get the caps off for the life of me. I've tried some heat and several different pin wrenches without any luck.

Before I resort to more volatile measures or taking it to a mechanic, has anyone successfully rebuilt their trim unit? Perhaps there's a tool that will make the job easier. I'm thinking the 16 years of saltwater have just fused the cap to the housing and it needs some more persuasion.

Looking forward to the information on this site and helping out where I can.

[Solarman]

The caps do unscrew, they have an o ring seal around the caps, you need the proper wrench for them to unscrew. Have you bought the replacement parts for them? You should get those parts and a wrench at same time. I believe the parts are sold as an assy?

Good luck.

[ScubaSteve]

I was thinking of just making my own tool out of some 1/8" thick plate and grade 8 bolts. If I buy the tool, is there a Suzuki-specific tool or will one of the generic ones work? The 2-pin wrenches don't have a chance so I'm gonna need something with all 4 pins that I can attach to a breaker bar.

I was going to wait until I get it all apart to order the parts.
I haven't seen a complete O-ring kit but maybe Browns can point me in the right direction.

Looking at the schematic, it doesn't appear that the dust seals in the caps can be ordered separately. Instead of spending $200 on the whole tilt piston, I'm hoping I can get it apart and just source a seal from McMaster.

Here's the current condition of the trim unit and the schematic I'm working from.

[Solarman]

I believe you'll find the check balls in poor condition as well as the seals. They sell the kit as a unit, but with all the headaches of piecing it out, don't think it'll be worth it. But, can try.

Good luck. Let us know how is going.

[ScubaSteve]

Where are the check balls? Down at the base of the unit?
Are you saying I should look into replacing the whole unit?
I've been looking into other used assemblies but who's to say those will be any better? I've seen a few on ebay for $300-600. Can't justify spending the money until I get this one apart.

[Solarman]

No, am saying, unscrew the top, slide the entire hydraulic assy out, set it aside. Take the new hydraulic assy (if you bought one), slide it into the casting, snug it down (not to tight, it seals by o ring, not
torque). And you're done. Except fluid level.
The repair assy has all new parts, and pre assembled. Top off the fluid, and ready to go. Don't need to drain fluid, but what you lose when pulling old assy out, and installing new is what you replace.my assy had worn balls and worn shaft.

Any way you choose to do it, good luck. Keep us posted.

[ScubaSteve]

Solarman, I get what you're saying.
New assemblies for the tilt and trim would run me about $500.
Ideally I'd like to get away with the $50 or so in O-rings.

This is all dependent on getting those caps off. Gonna take another "crack" at it tonight. Let you know if I have any luck.

[ScubaSteve]

Well I got the caps off. Ended up having to cut out a notch with the Dremel in each cap. With the notch I was able to advance them slowly with a piece of flat stock and a hammer.

I removed the tilt assembly and starboard trim pin, but I can't remove the port side. Spent about 20 minutes pulling and rocking to no avail. Tried some channel locks with a rag but didn't want to mess up the rod. Left it in the parts washer overnight to hopefully free up.

Any ideas on how to get it out? I have the manual release open so there's gotta be a blocked passage or something w the valves.

Been trying to source a seal kit but can't find anything specific to the DT115.
Anybody have a link to a kit that will work? Hoping I can replace all the seals and still salvage the unit. Pretty sure I can reuse all 3 pistons if I get the proper O-rings.

[ScubaSteve]

This is what I need...it looks like the right kit but can't find one specific to the DT115..anybody have a link?

Johnson Evinrude 200 225 250 300 HP Seal Kit Power Tilt Trim Showa 434519 | eBay

[ScubaSteve]

Haven't updated this in a while.
Ordered the seal kit in my previous post and it happens to fit my unit.
The only thing not included is the dust seals in the tops of the caps.
Browns Point said that I have to order the whole tilt piston assembly ($250) and trim caps ($100) in order to get those seals. Seems ridiculous that I should have to spend that kind of money to get a few dollars worth of seals.

I'm going to try to source the seals separately on-line or from McMaster Carr.
Has anyone ever had to buy these before?

[dj_movers]

Hi Steve,

I have not attempted this project before. If you get in a jam, I can see if my local mechanic by chance has what you need.

David

[ScubaSteve]

In my earlier post I had trouble removing one of the trim pistons.
Turns out that cylinder bore looks to be warped and the piston won't go past that point in the cylinder. That means I wouldn't be able to trim down the last 3 inches.

Now I see my options as:
1) Source a used unit for $400-600
2) Get the cylinder bored out by a machine shop and hope it works
3) Run it as-is and lose the full trim capabilities.