2014 250AP Idle air control location

[bfoker]

Hi All,

I have a 2014 250AP that was installed last fall. I live in new england and run it straight through the winter as a commuting boat. It now has about 80 hours on it. Today, I warmed it up to temp in idle at the dock as usual, backed out of the slip and headed out. I made it about 15 seconds or so and it just stalled. i started it up, waited a min, did the same and it stalled again. had to let it sit for a minute or 2 then tried a few more times, same issue. eventually, i got it to run long enough to get back to the dock. i put it in nuetral bypass and brought it up to 1500 rpms, no stalling. put it in gear tied up, did the same, no issues. sounded a little rough but didn't stall. fuel fine, filters fine. a google search turned up a lot of issues with idle air control valves. tough time of year to get a tech to look at it. some people recommended removing the AIC and cleaning it. I'd like to try that, but cannot locate it on the engine. I only found one schematic of it, but was for an older 175 that looked nothing like my motor. everyone says it's an easy 20 minute job, yet nobody explains where the IAC is located.

Any help is greatly appreciated as I really need this boat running asap
Brian

[Moonlighter]

From what I've seen reported, IAC problems tend to manifest themselves most commonly in high or erratic idle speeds. Yours doesn't really sound like that. May nevertheless be possible.

There are a couple of other simple and common possibilities to check before you go off doing more complex and expensive things with IAC valves!

Fuel restriction comes to mind, or blocked breather.

Is the primer bulb going flat, did you notice? The bulb itself includes a check valve and sometimes these fail without warning and the lines lose fuel prime. Did you try pumping up the bulb when the engine stalled? What happened?

Have you checked the tank breather to ensure it isn't blocked? Wasps seem to like to build mud nests in there! Again the primer bulb would be expected to go flat if this is the case.

Anti-syphon valve also a possibility. We had a very similar problem to yours with my regular skipper's DF300 a while ago. It would stall occasionally at the ramp when first started but once underway at cruising revs it would be fine. But bring it back to idle after a run and sometimes it would just stall. Very frustrating.

It turned out to be a faulty anti-syphon valve on the fuel tank. Quite a common problem and symptoms also fit what you've said is happening on your boat. They are problematic little things!

We simply removed the barb fitting from the under-floor fuel tank outlet (this fitting incorporates that valve and the fuel line connects to it), took it to the workbench and punched the little ball, seat and spring out from inside it, and then reinstalled, reconnected the fuel line, done. Took 15 minutes. Problem solved!

You can't really test those valves, and in any case the are not required on outboard powered boats, so either you replace with new, or like we did simply get rid of them. A very inexpensive and simple thing to do so even if it isn't the problem it hasn't cost you much in time or $ and is an easy DIY job.

Also, are you certain that fuel is fresh and no water in there? Hopefully you have a RACOR style water separating fuel filter fitted to the fuel line between the tank and engine? Check and be sure no water is in there. Replace the filter element anyway if you do have one fitted already. A bad batch of fuel could have nearly blocked the fuel flow. Especially ethanol blends are susceptible to this kind of contamination. A blocked filter will usually also result in the primer buld sucking flat. Hence my earlier question re that.

One final thing, it may sound unrelated but may well be the issue! Trust me on this!

These new fuel injected engines need good 12v power. Really good power!

So check and double check your batteries are charged and that the connections are all tight and clean. Get a load test done on them. And check that battery cables are in good condition. No corrosion on the connections or inside the cables themselves!!

Remove the lugs from the battery terminals, clean, burnish and reinstall them all, and tighten the nuts (never wing nuts!) up very firmly.

Yours would not be the first problem with a Suzuki outboard that was due to the batteries being low on charge or a poor connection. So this is a very important thing.

Let us know how you go. Someone else may chime in re the IAC location, but I would still definitely check the simple things above first.

[Solarman]

df250ap, 2014

What electronics do you have setup on your boat? Are you getting any codes? If no codes are showing up, have you checked battery connections, fuel/water separator - bad fuel, damaged kill switch? Anything happen just before this started?

As moonlighter asked, does pumping the fuel bulb help when this happens?
Post us back with anything you find. Is this motor still under warranty? You don't want to screw your warranty up if intact?

Good luck

[Plane Fish N]

I had a pair of 2010 150's brand new.

With 9 hours on them, I also had an issue where my engine would run fine (no erratic idle speeds or roughness) but when I brought it to idle, it would die.

There were NO codes or any other lights or indications as to why this would happen.

I brought it to the Suzuki dealership and after hooking up the laptop, they determined that it was an IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.

A quick replacement, re-check with the laptop and the engines ran great until I sold them 4 years later with almost 600 hours on them.

I guess my point is that sometimes you won't get an error code .. actually having had 2014 250's and now, 2015 300's, I can tell you that most times, you won't get error codes.

Hope this helps out.

Cheers