2008 Triton LTS DF 175

[Rschafrick]

Hello everyone,
I am seeking advise for my 2010 df 175. I have never had a problem with engine ever before. Here is my symptoms. The boat sat in my garage for the last 4 1/2 months. The boat has a min Kota charging system for 4 batteries which was hooked up. When I pulled the boat out I wanted to start it before taking it to the boat launch. I tried to start and nothing. No fuel pump, no beeps, no cranking. Started to trouble shoot. Found one of the charging system connections was corroded off. After removing 2 batteries from center console and checking other connections I noticed the the large 1 awg Wire coming from the battery switch to the battery was also corroded. I replaced the 1 wag wire cleaned all connections and reinstalled everything. Still no power at helm. Trim tilt on helm does not work. I then remove cowling on engine check fuses. Checked with test light and multimeter. All fuses checked good. Not sure how to check relays. I also have 13v at started solenoid, and trim tilt work on outboard.
So now I am stumped and frustrated. I decide to check the internet. I found threads related to my problems. I read about the solid white wire that powers the ignition and completes the starting circuit to the EMC. I have tracked this wire down . Some threads say this white wire has a connection to the battery or at the battery switch. I could not find a connection at either point. I did find another white wire different gauge that came off the battery switch that had an inline fuse. 15 amp with a spare. Fuse is good. Now I am more frustrated . I decide to ring out the white wire thru the wiring harness. I disconnect the plug at the engine and disconnect the plug coming from the ignition switch. I tried to ring out the white wire with jumper wire on ignition side so I can get my meter on the plug from the engine and the jumper. I was un able to ring out the wire. Could not identify.
Could some please tell me in detail how to trouble shoot this problem. Also how do I by pass the ignition to see if the white wire or ignition is the problem.

I have checked all connections and charged batteries. Your help is appreciated.
DIW

[Rschafrick]

2008 Triton LTS DF 175

Hello everyone I am a new member please review my previous post!
I really need help! i posted this yesterday and no one has replied!
Please Help your assistance is appreciated!

[Solarman]

df175, 2010, electrical problems

Be patient, the white wire does go to the switch, but I believe has a junction near, or just inside the harness. You should follow from the switch back to the harness, and may be at the fuse end, follow to the harness for a possible other junction. Also check each/ every connector for corrosion.
There are a few here that have similar motors to yours, and if patient they will be here shortly to help.
Starting at switch, follow white wire, see if you find a junction. If you find it check for power on all legs, to see if that splice is the problem.
Good luck. Post us what you find.

[Rschafrick]

Thanks Solarman. Where can i find a wiring schematic. I have the suzuki part number. 36620-93j60.

[artdf175]

the infamous white wire problem
A number of us have discussed the issue for the last couple of years
there are a couple of critical points with this wire
You have the correct wire. to my knowledge this is the only wire running to the helm with a 15A inline fuse.
If you have had that much corrosion around the batteries I would start with where the wire originates off the battery switch.
there should be a 10 inch, or so, pigtail coming off the battery switch that the white wire is spliced into. cut that splice out and redo the connection.
next connection where there has been problems is at the throttle/shift control.
the white wire goes through the key switch and neutral switch before it runs back through the wiring module to the ECM. the neutral switch also has given people a problem.
check that switch for continuity
Are you getting power to the helm? this white wire, in my case, also feeds the wiring to the dash and those gauges.. a bad splice in that wire. or if it has come loos from the connnection under the dash, gives you no power to this location. but need to start the tracking from the battery.
check these and report back and I will look back and find a previous thread on the subject
Art

[Rschafrick]

Thanks Art I will do as you suggested! I appreciate to help from all.

[Rschafrick]

Update,
Yesterday i was able to work on the boat again. I really thought i had it figured out.
I spliced into the white wire after the ignition switch harness connection. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the splice area on the white wire. I than to my test light to the motor, grounded it at the lifting eye and had power at the white test wire coming off the plug at the motor. I also checked continuity at the binncale neutral safety switch is good. Let me also mention that the white wire in the ignition harness does not have any connections or source of 12volts. It seems to go directly to the motor. I bought a ignition switch harness. This has the buzzer, kill switch and ignition all together. Hook it all up and nothing.
I am still not getting 12v to the white wire.
The white wire off the battery switch has continuity all the way through but goes to a separate harness. This wire has a 15amp fuse that is good. It does not seem to terminate with the ignition motor harness. Please need more input.
Still scratching my head!

[Solarman]

df175, 2010, corroded wires, no power

Do you have voltage at the white wire at the battery switch?
Did you check your main ground connection at your console?
If you had corroded wires at battery/ bat switch, then you should also follow those same wires to console and motor. You should have a schematic, but anything online may be difficult to read (poor quality?). But can try to google your motor wiring schematic and see if you can get one that is readable.
Have you checked all connections at the battery switch? Could the switch contacts be corroded, and bad? Are you getting good voltage readings to and from switch?

Try not to run too many jumper wires, use one to test for continuity, or voltage as you follow the wires.

Post us how its going when able. Good luck.

[Harper]

My guess is that you haven't found the blown fuse yet. All this white wire stuff has diverted your attention from other possibilities. There are also inline fuses installed by the boat manufacturers in their wiring harnesses that are not part of the Suzuki wiring scheme. After all, your batteries, battery switch, and boat lighting have nothing to do with the Suzuki wiring. I once had a similar problem, turned out to be a miniature 10 amp blade fuse under the console, part of the boat wiring. Everything was dead, couldn't crank, gauges were out, etc., but the motor, the tilt switch on the motor, etc., all had 12 volts, apparently supplied by the sub-battery cable (white wire).

So if you had a lot of corroded wires under the console, you can probably find a corroded fuse, too.

[Solarman]

df175, no power at console

Mike, my thoughts were that the wire from batt switch was corroded off. I'm thinking check the switch contacts because it appears the switch was left on, causing the switch wire to console corrosion. I'm thinking the contacts have also corroded off?
Just trying to help Mike.

Good luck DIW.

[Rschafrick]

Battery switch is good. no corrosion. I no power at the binnicale for motor trim tilt. it works on the motor. Have looked for fuses all that i have found are good with good condinuity. Is there any other fuses on the motor other than the fuse block by the starter. Once again no 12 volts to White wire from ignition. I do not see any splice or conjuction. When i put jumper on wire i get it at motor test wire.

[Harper]

Mike, my thoughts were that the wire from batt switch was corroded off. I'm thinking check the switch contacts because it appears the switch was left on, causing the switch wire to console corrosion. I'm thinking the contacts have also corroded off?
Just trying to help Mike.

Good luck DIW.

No, I'm not implying that we should discount your advice, only suggesting that there are still other possible causes. We seem to be concentrating solely on the Suzuki wiring, when it might be wiring unrelated to the Suzuki system. He's got 4 batteries total, a Minnkota, and who knows what other add-ons? In addition to the little 10 amp mini-fuse that I mentioned, my boat has a 40 amp master breaker, not part of the Suzuki wiring scheme, but either of these two will kill power to most everything, yet the motor-mounted tilt switch will still work if the 15 amp fuse on the sub-battery cable is intact.

[redlowrey]

Update,
Yesterday i was able to work on the boat again. I really thought i had it figured out.
I spliced into the white wire after the ignition switch harness connection. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the splice area on the white wire. I than to my test light to the motor, grounded it at the lifting eye and had power at the white test wire coming off the plug at the motor. I also checked continuity at the binncale neutral safety switch is good. Let me also mention that the white wire in the ignition harness does not have any connections or source of 12volts. It seems to go directly to the motor. I bought a ignition switch harness. This has the buzzer, kill switch and ignition all together. Hook it all up and nothing.
I am still not getting 12v to the white wire.
The white wire off the battery switch has continuity all the way through but goes to a separate harness. This wire has a 15amp fuse that is good. It does not seem to terminate with the ignition motor harness. Please need more input.
Still scratching my head!

HOOK your test light up to the fifteen amp fuse and check that it lights up both sides of the fuse and then trace it back to your helm, that is your main supply to your ignition switch. The reason your trim worked from the motor is because it gets its supply from the main ecm relay through the thirty amp fuse. Forget about everything after the ignition switch first you have to get supply to it. Your going to kick your self when you find it, it will be staring at you in the face.

[redlowrey]

I forgot to add, there are three fuses a sixty a thirty and a fifteen, that should be getting its supply off the starter motor solenoid.