DT115 water pump

[Solarman]

dt115, water pump issues

Sorry David didn't mean to put any pressure on you.just trying to save you tearing the lower unit down again, if as you said, giving more throttle and it overheated. If it overheats again let us know, it is simple to work on the sub water grommets, but I wanted to give you some pointers to help you along.
Anyway, I wish you good luck. Post how it comes out, and still willing to help if you need.

[dj_movers]

Hi Solar, just talked to the welder. He is going to paint tomorrow and call be to pick-up.

What is your preference between grease and anti-seize compound on lower unit bolts?

Thanks,

David

[Solarman]

I think axle grease is better when it comes to being in water, but use a q-tip on any female threads, it will leave room in bottom of hole for grease to move to.

[dj_movers]

Update: Lower unit is still with the welder and he is on vacation this week. I have been unable to find the paint so I plan to remove an old fading decal to see what the paint looked like and have a color match done later.

Right now, I just want to get the lower unit back and pursue the water pump issue.

I will provide updates.

[Solarman]

dt115, water flow problems

David, did you ever clean and inspect that mound of silicone? I know you wanted to wait on sub water pickup, but don't like looks of all the silicone?
Post back if able. Those parts aren't very expensive if a problem.

[dj_movers]

Hi Solarman,

No, I have not worked on the silicone yet. The lower unit has been in the shop for the last 2-3 weeks.

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I need to look at that before reattaching the lower unit.

Regards,

[dj_movers]

OK friends,

I pick-up the lower unit from welder today. I am ready to resume the water pump challenge. Some issues:

1. Unknown silicone for Solarman: This was removed by the welder. There is an aluminum plate just beneath where the silicone was. This area looks highly unusual like metal from the water pump base has partially corroded away. Maybe JB weld? I am able to scrap away what appears to be salt. I will take pictures at first light.

2. Water pump kit: Should I re-use the kit that the shop installed with 1 hour on it or start with a brand new kit that I have. See picture of the slightly used impeller above. I have verified that it was the proper kit. I forgot to turn the hose on for maybe 1-2 minutes once while on the earmuffs.

3. Anti-seize vs. grease...

4. Pictures: Place your requests now for any additional pictures you would like to see.

5. Is further disassembly required?

All for now,

David

[Solarman]

dt115, water flow problems

David, the plate under silicone should be a stainless plate.

I use axle grease, but a good anti seize (waterproof) could be good.

The impeller should never be turned without water on it, this is its only means of lubrication. Look at it closely, if any cracks or pieces missing in the vanes then replace, not worth the risk if damaged.

JB weld for aluminum is what I use to repair many areas corroded away, haven't had problems with it yet.

As far as pics requested, I am concerned about the grommet on the sub water pipe where it enters the water chamber. Doubt you can get a pic. But, you can look with a flashlight and see if burned and sloppy loose. If exhaust pressure enters the water chamber around that pipe, it will interfere with water going into the pump. The higher the RPMs the more the exhaust pushes water out.

Post back with what you find.

[dj_movers]

for starters, here are two photos of the former silcone area. Does not look correct...

Yes the plate is stainless.

I will check on the grommet next...

[Solarman]

dt115, water flow problems

Not easy to tell from pics. But, that stainless plate is a heat shield for the exhaust side of that rubber grommet. Under that plate (the other side) should go down (90° angle from the top) and around the sub water pipe grommet preventing the hot pressurized exhaust from burning the grommet up.

What is it that you think is incorrect??

OK, will wait till you post again.
Good luck

[dj_movers]

In my first picture, there is a gap or hole on the right hand side between the 2 stubs. I can see the threads of the right stud, but not the left. I can't tell much by looking at the exploded parts diagram from Boat.net. The service manual has numerous photos. I may have to further disassemble to see what's going on.

I still owe an answer on the grommet. I have a better understanding of its function now and it is cheap.

Today is a complete rain-out in South Florida

Have a nice weekend!

[Solarman]

Ok I see what your seeing.
If you're removing the bearing cap, the 4 screws under the water pump, and the 2 nuts on the stainless plate secure it. A couple screw drivers each side will pry it up (held in by oring and driveshaft seal & maybe silicone st s/s plate?), once up high enough, asap, stuff a clean rag in the hole around the driveshaft (don't want anything getting in there). Should be able to slide cap off. Notice if a flat washer is stuck under the cap. Plan to replace the oring, driveshaft seal, any mounting screws, and any other worn items.

Keep the bearing cap clean, this seals the lower case full of oil, keep lower unit upright, or your oil will pour out.

Inspect bearing cap assy. Can remove sub water pipe with one more screw/nut at other end of pipe. Inspect all your parts, and let us know what's up.

Let us know how it's going.

[dj_movers]

I am typing an update.

[dj_movers]

Update:

Lower and mid section webbing look good

Grommets look and feel good as best I can tell. When shinning a flashlight through the chambers at night, no light can be seen around either end of the sub tube.

Driveshaft bearing housing is held in place by hex screws instead of Phillips head like the manual shows.

3 out of 4 screws I could loosen, however, the 4th screw is proving difficult and I am close to stripping the hex head.

I do not have an impact screwdriver, but plan to buy one tomorrow.

The hole or gap or missing piece in the earlier photo does not appear to go all the way through. See picture with inserted wooden stick. Here I may reapply the silicone or switch to JB Weld???

Part of driveshaft bearing housing is cut away or corroded away around one of the bolts. See picture with zoom of cover bolt hole.

The stainless plate is not completely flat. It has a contour in the middle.

If I disassemble further, I will replace seal, bolts, o-ring, etc.

Not sure if I still need further disassembly or just clean and reassemble with the new waterpump kit...

Regards,

David

[Solarman]

David, if you remove the bearing cap, jb weld might be my choice. If you don't pull it, then silicone. If ever you have to pull the cap off, it is better to clean silicone in my opinion.
If sub water grommet/ system is good then no problems here. This is your call.

Good luck, keep us posted.