v-6 dt 150 problem

[seaox230c]

Just looked at the mukini fuel pump rebuild...nothing in there would be useful for a 150 and up Suzuki low pressure fuel pump..no springs...no check valves

[BillCon]

The trim senders have 4 wires and the gauges have 3 thats the problem I, have been running into, and can't find any 3 wire senders that fit the retro Suzuki's, also there is a mikuni LP fuel pump repair kit that has check valves in it, and gaskets but no springs, around $25

Mikuni Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit D52-21 (DF52-176) (SKU 002-223)

[lifetime62]

so far it is doing good , now it bogs down

[Solarman]

dt150, running issues?

What bogs, your motor? When is it doing that? Give us a post on the info, did you try pumping bulb when it started bogging down?

Keep us posted.

[lifetime62]

boggs

I found that the mixture screws were to rich cleaned plugs and leaned back alittle and it runs great , now I need a part , the brass nut and the spacer behind the nut for the bottom carb, someone stripped it and it is loose and the brass spacer has been filed ,

[lifetime62]

Won't idle down

I unscrewed my hot foot to replace carpet , now I can't get it to idle down below 1200 rpm's it won't idle down even screwing down the idle screws , I don't want to ruin foot or motor , taking a rag and put around top and middle carb down even slow it down , it's like the bottom carb is doing everything
NEED HELP BAD

[Solarman]

Try disconnecting throttle linkage from motor. And back idle stop screw out a little, a couple turns. There should only be one idle stop screw, what do mean by each carbs idle screw?

Don't change the idle mix screws for the idle, leave them set at what the manual says, all the same. Yes, if a little rich, can open all just 1/16 of a turn. But all the same, and remember, it is better slightly rich, than lean. After all, it's better to replace/ clean plugs than to replace a piston with a hole in it.

Post back when able.

[lifetime62]

I looked and if I take the linkage off it revs up too high , the lower cab the bracket looks loose , I don't want to strip the brass nut holding it , when you are cruising on the lake it is fine but when you release the pedal it still wants to go , and it won't let the gear shift go to the neutral position ,, I took it to avins marine over in Florence and he is the one who adjusted the mixture screws , I will post back today

[Solarman]

If is not going back to idle with linkage disconnected, then something is wrong with idle stop adjustment, or someone has changed some of the other linkage adjustments, that's not good, it means carbs may be out of sync if that happened? Do not change the carb linkages. Use only the single linkage and cable adjustments. If the cable has an adjustment, some do not.

Good luck. Post back later.

[lifetime62]

I checked everything again I can take a rag shove it in the top and middle carbs and it does nothing . if I put it in gear the rpms go down to around 800 , but I am worried it being so high of rpm's that it will ruin my bottom foot and I don't need that , the mechanic said the the upper oil seal is leaking and that the mechanic has seen on some that would cause the higher rpm's catching air , I am bout ready to have a burning party. this has been terrible not being able to do anything on the lake

[Solarman]

Look you're the one that said when you removed the pedal it started revving higher. I am trying to assess how you caused that moving the pedal? And the only way is if the cable came out of the slot (not allowing enough slack in cable), or if someone screwed with the linkages?
So you tell me which it is?
Most often the lower oil seal is there for that purpose, and prevent water getting in. if air were getting in, so would water?
So check the cable on the pedal to see if the casing is out of the groove keeping it at high idle.

Post back what you find.

[lifetime62]

I know that is what is so bad . I don't know if I done it. I checked the cable it isn't out of the casing. I did move the linkage trying to get it to idle down. The mechanic sync all them back. The oil seal is the upper oil seal under the flywheel . he said it could cause it to rev up . I don't know if that could do it . he got one ordered and going to try it . I did check to see if the carbs bolts were loose , they wasn't. Going to change the seal anyway cause it is leaking gas and oil ,so that is one thing fixed . if one of the fuel pumps were not working would that cause it to surge

[Solarman]

I thought you rebuilt both fuel pumps, and replaced the check valves? But, it is possible, if you have an air leak in one of the Chambers (upper oil seal under crankshaft), it could affect that fuel pump? Your pumps operate on the consistent pressures in their Chambers, if the seal is as bad as you say, it can also affect that carb.
Fix that seal first, and go from there.

Good luck, post us back how its going.

[lifetime62]

I did rebuild the fuel pumps and the oil seal should be here Tuesday will let you know after that

[lifetime62]

Put oil seal on motor , it did stop the leak and it will idle down to 1000 rpm ,but if you put it into gear and give it the gas it will bog down. If you put a rag in the 2 top carbs it doesn't change at all . if you put a rag in the bottom carb it does change the idle. Going to remove top 2 carbs and check. Them . can you take out the reed valves from the outside ,wondering if maybe be the problem