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2006 DF175 Charging/idling issues

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  • #16
    I visually checked the the 60 amp fuses and them looked good. Is there something I am missing maybe?

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    • #17
      Burnishing. Meant to mean I guess sanding or filling the connectors under the hold down nuts and washers so they make best possible contact
      All those ground spots need checking
      I really highly suggest getting the service manual. I kow it is about $84 or so but has paid for itself several times over
      If you have that many hours the valves would be high on my list
      Also check the zincs that surround the eCM they are under those round hood shaped covers I was told they are very important to be kept clean
      Art

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      • #18
        I will wire brush all of the large ground and positive wire fittings tomorrow. I was actually thinking about buying the plug in to read the computer off of ebay. I think it has the manual in it but not sure.

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        • #19
          Can I have my auto mechanic adjust the valves?

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          • #20
            Hi Capt

            Checking them is not really the issue, but to adjust any valves that are out of spec, you need to replace shims, so whoever checks the valves will need access to those special shims. You can buy them from Suzuki marine.

            I think that Art was also suggesting that you wire brush /hit with sandpaper all major electrical connections, including the larger fuse boxes. The point is that these new EFI Suzukis really need to get good clean power supply to all major components. Many, many problems are addressed if they get good power, hence the questions/suggestions about batteries etc being checked and not jist assume because they are reasonably new that they are up to spec.
            Last edited by Moonlighter; 11-03-2014, 05:32 AM.

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            • #21
              I have completed everything on these list except for the valve adjustment.

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              • #22
                All terminals cleaned and deburnished both positive and negative. Still no effect on the idling problem. I'm getting a valve adjustment set up next. We will see. This has been frustrating. Thanks for all the help fellas.

                Godspeed,
                Capt Ben

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                • #23
                  these little problems just beats one to death
                  did this help your voltage problem?

                  the valves are not like you VW unfortunately
                  as Moonlighter pointed out these are shimmed valves as opposed to mechanical
                  you can measure them without the special tool I mentioned but if out of tolerance - replacing with a correct shim is a royal pain
                  there are a couple things you will need before you pull the back off
                  I can assume the gasket will not come off with that many hours in one piece
                  an there is some gasket material you will need in a couple of places when it goes back together.. and the manual has all the clearance and various torque specs

                  did you check the vacuum hoses? and there is a check valve (maybe green?) make sure it is clean and in the right direction
                  and the manual also pointed out (from memory) in the MAP sensor. when you take it off there is a small tube (for lack of better description ) that should be checked and cleaned ..
                  I can take a look tonight to be sure I picked the right sensor..

                  good luck and let us know results..
                  art

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                  • #24
                    I did find the nut on my starter loose and thought "eureka" however no dice.

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                    • #25
                      it could be something that simple.. just finding it
                      I am trying to attach a couple of photos of my home make valve tool
                      it took me a couple of times to get to this point.. but it works
                      I can work on wood projects all day but metal is a bit more challenging
                      valve tool 1.jpg



                      Last edited by artdf175; 10-19-2016, 12:08 PM.

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                      • #26
                        Did both the problems start together, or have you had a rough idle for a while and then it stopped charging. The problem should not be hard to find, and I would not worry about the valve clearance till you fix the charging problem.

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                        • #27
                          df175, charging issues

                          Originally posted by captchancey View Post
                          The battery is a one year old Optima Blue Top 1000 MCA cranking battery. It has a second optima on the battery two switch that is less than a year old. It really runs well as long as it is not at low rpms. I thank you all for the suggestions.
                          You might check and clean your battery switch connections as well.

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                          • #28
                            Put another fully battery charged battery in the boat and see what happens 10 volts is too low

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                            • #29
                              Thanks for all the help and expertise. I have 5 batteries in the boat, 2 for house and cranking and 3 for trolling motor. Art nice job on the valve tool. I appreciate manufacturing at home it's tough but rewarding. Every single connector and terminal have been wire brushed shiny including the ones under the cowling. While the motor idles rough it seems to make a loud sucking sound right before it quits. It may just be the sound a motor makes right before it quits, I am not sure. I am currently waiting on the mechanic to adjust the valves. We'll see!

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                              • #30
                                Five batteries, huh? How do you have the five batteries hooked up to the motor for charging? And how are the batteries connected to each other? What kind of switching arrangement, isolators, etc, and which, if any, batteries are wired in series and which, if any, in parallel?
                                Mike

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