2006 DF175 Charging/idling issues

[captchancey]

Hello,

After doing my bests searches and repairs by following these forums and coming up short I know I now need someone's phenomenal experience with these engines here on the Suzuki Outboard Forum.

The motor runs just fine above 2,000 rpm or so. It does not idle well at all.
I noticed the volt meter staying below 12 volts so I ordered a new voltage rectifier and installed it believing that was the problem. Unfortunately it did not fix it. I then ordered a stator just knowing that would fix the charging problem for sure. I cranked the engine and it still has the same problem. BOOOO
I replaced the idle control valve because it has acted up every now and then. It did not help the low idle no charging problem. I have ran a new white wire directly from engine to battery with no breaks. Still the problem is not fixed.

Please, please help me fix this. Sorry for the long first post.

Godspeed,
Capt Ben

[Harper2]

Hi Ben,
What is your idle RPM? If you increase the RPM to the normal idle RPM of 650 or so, is it charging properly then?

[captchancey]

When I rev the engine above 2500 rpm it will increase voltage to around 12 volts but it won't go much higher than that.

[artdf175]

Question I might ask is where exactly are you reading the voltage?
Do you have the engine interface cable with nema backbone to a chart plotter?
After all that you have done I wonder if the voltage reader is off

Low speed idle question. Have you checked valve clearances?
And to go along with that cylinder psi and a leak down test
I am having a oil consumption issue but when I checked the valve clearances every one was off
Art

[artdf175]

One more. The repair manual. Note1
It is difficult to check rectifier & regulator completely. Before replacing with a new one, check if its ground point has good electrical contact.

There have been Number of problem solved on the forum be checking grounding

[artdf175]

Sorry. One more
You say you replaced white wire directly from engine to battery
Can I ask if you have the full service manual?
The white wire that I know of runs to the ignition switch back to the main relay through the fuse box to the starter relay
The alternator feeds directly to the regulator / rectifier
The output side back to ground and two leads directly to fuse box that then lead to main relay / starter relay / battery & PTT switch
So I am not sure what you are trying to bypass
Your note about the voltage staying below 12V makes my think all you are reading is the battery voltage
And one of the wiring diagrams shows wiring from ign coils through main relay before getting to battery

Low idle problem. You might check the vacuum hoses for a failure or leak
This is important for low / med speed but not high speed
Hope this has not been too confusing as I know I have jumped around to different subjects
Art

[captchancey]

Hey Art
Thanks for the help. I used the voltmeter on the boat to check voltage. When I was not 100 percent sure it was working 100 percent correct I used an actual voltmeter that you connect to positive and negative ground. The highest voltage I could get even when revving engine above 3000 rpm's was on 12.7 or so. At low rough idle it is in the 10.5 range.
I went under the cowling and by passed all wires and connected directly to the white wire and then ran a wire from that connection to my battery which is located under the console about 10 feet away. I figured this would eliminate any potential bad spots that may have been grounding out in the wire run. Still had same rough idle and low charge.

[captchancey]

I can disconnect the voltage rectifier completely and it does nothing to the engine. It will still run but the bad idle is still there. I never new an engine would run if those two things were disconnected.
My white wire set up is ran on it's own fuse directly to the battery switch terminal. If I disconnect the white wire it will stop the engine. When I reconnect it cranks but idles funny.
I have not checked the valves but find it odd that they would have something to do with the charging of the motor. All the engine wires are heavy 2 gauge and none of them have corrosion or anything else that looks like there may be a bad ground. Other than the idle the engine runs fine. It's getting pretty expensive though replacing all these electrical parts and then finding out they are not the problem.

[Solarman]

df175,, rough idle, charging issues

How old is your battery, and what condition is it in?
Could the ”infamous engine holder/ exhaust plug” be leaking, damaging wires?
Just a thought.

[Harper2]

Ben, you are correct with the white wire setup. It is callled the sub-battery cable and should be connected to the battery positive and not the ignition switch. I'm not home right now with access to my manual, so I can't look at anything to source the grounds, but I think grounding is a likely issue.

[captchancey]

The battery is a one year old Optima Blue Top 1000 MCA cranking battery. It has a second optima on the battery two switch that is less than a year old. It really runs well as long as it is not at low rpms. I thank you all for the suggestions.

[glipsky@tampabay.rr.com]

New to outboards need help

Hi Mike not sure if you are still on here , how do i post I am not able to see where to post a new thread , I just got a suzuki 50 hp 4 stroke this past summer before that i had a I/O 3.0 Bayliner now have a 20 ft pontoon my problem is i cant raised the speed with out it going into gear , I feel this is a adjustment , but not sure where to start ? Guy

[artdf175]

Hi Mike not sure if you are still on here , how do i post I am not able to see where to post a new thread , I just got a suzuki 50 hp 4 stroke this past summer before that i had a I/O 3.0 Bayliner now have a 20 ft pontoon my problem is i cant raised the speed with out it going into gear , I feel this is a adjustment , but not sure where to start ? Guy

Guy. On the main page top left there is a red oval with New Thread. Start there
Art

[artdf175]

Ben
the reason for checking the valve clearance is trying to diagnose the idle problem valve should have been checked at 20 hours and again at 200 hours

grounding issues have been brought up on the forum before and many issues solved by correcting
here are three that should be checked by taking apart burnising with sand paper and reinstall.. ground leading to starter relay.. to main relay .. and the battery post.. the latter maybe being the most important..
art..

[captchancey]

Art thanks for all the info and helping I really appreciate it. I have not had the valves checked. The motor has approximately 1,000 hours on it. I have put the last 700 on it. I have built VW engines from the ground up but I have never attempted to look at the valves on this motor. What and where is the burnising. I will check out the starter relay ground as well.

Thanks