should have it tomorrow.
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spun crank on a 1997 DT85/ out of time
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dt85, 97, running issues
The TPS/ TVS appears to be bad, it has to be a steady reading from lowest throttle to WOT throttle.
The gear counting coil you didn't post a number for space and tooth (.975), and need to know if consistent for each space, and each tooth (you did mention comes back to .975, was that for each tooth?). This coil may be ok, depending on what each space between the teeth reads.
The TPS will be the toughest to replace. Do not remove the old till you have one to replace it.
When you get the manual, read up on how to replace this sensor.
Post back after you have read that section well.
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Ok got the manual.
Checked the gear tooth counter and it had 204 ohms. That looks like its good.
Manual says between 160 - 240 ohms.
Now the TPS. The manual says that I need a test harness? ( JUMPER) Well it looked like I could make one kinda. Striped some wire and hooked them in.
The manual called for the boat to be in the water and motor running. MOTOR WONT START . So hooked up the ohm meter and got a reading of 90 on the light green and red stripe and on the brown with red stripe i got a 30.
The readings did not change whether the key was on or off or if I moved the throttle.
Would I be safe to make the assumption that this sensor would be bad
Thanks
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checking tps
I'm not sure if your jumper wire is doing the right job. The manual may also be referring to a voltage check of the tps? That will work, but it still needs to show a smooth change from idle position to wide open throttle. If you test by ohms, just check the wires from the tps when disconnected, not with a jumper wire, and switch off. If checking by the manual you will have to use the special wire set up they use. You may damage your computer if wrong connections.
Let us know what you're finding.
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dt85, running issues
Well I might have recommended calling the dealer first, to ask what they charge to check and set the tps on your year, 2 stroke motor might cost. As some dealers don't seem to care about the older motors.
My motors are efi, I don't adjust my tps the same as you are trying to. Your tps its set according to all 4 butterflies, mine had only the one. I set mine by ohms, my wot is 440, and (throttle cable disconnected), idle is 110. With throttle connected idle is at 120, half of my wot reading.
Basically by my manual, if I remember correctly, my butterfly is set at 3° open, and the tps is supposed to read 3 volts, but that required the jumper wire that connects the volt meter inline with the ecm to measure but, I didn't have that, so I improvised. I had two motors, so I matched my other motor by the ohms at wot, and at idle.
For your motor, I would connect the ohm meter, max out the throttle (key off - not running) adjust tps to highest reading, snug the screws down, return to idle, check ohms, (should read half wot) disconnect throttle check ohms (mine is 10 ohms less than idle). You might need to adjust the idle stop screw to prevent overrevving.
Good luck, let us know how you're doing.
Sorry, mine is 210, and 220, i posted it wrong.Last edited by Solarman; 12-10-2014, 02:44 PM.
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I think it has spun the crank and what you should have done was to get number one on tdc remove the flywheel and have a look at the relationship of the magneto to the switch off point on number one coil and I think you will find it way out. It doe's not matter how much spark or compression or fuel you have if it doe's not switch at the right time it means nothing.
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Solaman in my opinion a motor with good compression spark and fuel, would start and run even with the throttle position switch disconnected. It would be down on performance but would start and run. The crank on that engine is in three pieces.
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dt85, running issues
Yes, if tps is disconnected then the computer has a default setting programmed in to allow it to start. Good point, he should disconnect tps and try to start. It should run, but maybe only at idle. The tps changes timing with throttle position.
I've still not seen a crank spun out of position. How are the separate sections of the crank put together? Splined mating? I can't think of anything that could interfere with the piston movement to cause such a change? Short of a broken rod, but then wouldn't have compression on all cylinders.
Sorry, just trying to understand.
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Ok.. Got the motor to a shop that seemed to know Suzuki motors. A spun crank it was not. Easy fix. The key stock that holds the fly wheel in place had slid out.
Also the TPS was bad. I have not gotten the boat to the water my self but the shop says its a great running motor. Oh ya much less expensive fix then a new/
replacement motor then what the other 2 shops said. So just a FYI check around.... The shop that did the repair was Island Marine here in Oregon.
Thanks to all that tried to help...
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dt85, running issues
Thnx for the up date. That relieves my thoughts on spun cranks (still not seen one happen yet). It's difficult to imagine good compression on all cylinders (good indication pistons, rings, crank, reeds are all working properly), and find a simple key throws everything off. Some people might have thrown the motor out for new. Thanks for sticking it out. And for letting us know.
Good luck, happy boating.
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