DF140 - No Spark

[racehydro]

CKing - that is a strange failure but I will check the wires to see if there is continuity. I can't imagine how that could happen, but anything is possible.

WEDOCQ - I did not replace the relay. I only pulled it and put 12 VDC on it to see if it worked. It seemed fine so I just put it back in place.

I am going to replace the relay and fuses just for to try something, but I am concerned that two instances of no spark at 10 hours apart that it will happen again. Steve

[redlowrey]

***! That is some AWESOME detective work!
-Shawn

Good work on finding the burnt wires on the ignition circuit, but it has nothing to do with the trim motor circuit. Racehydro pull the ecu cover off pull the power relay forward and check these voltages, key off there should be battery voltage on the white wire, key on you should have battery voltage on both gray wires and the white on the relay, zero on the pink and black, the ecu uses this wire for a ground inside the ecu, do these simple checks and we will go from there.

[WEDOCQ]

I pulled the relay and put a battery across one side and nothing. Then I did a few connect / disconnects of the relay to a battery. At first I didn't hear a 'click' and then I did hear it. Did this a half dozen times and it kept 'clicking'. Put it back together and there was voltage to the coils - and she runs!

Is is possible for this relay to hang up or stick? Or could it be an intermittent relay?

So you did not replace this relay yet? I am confused! You said the relay wasn't working at first, and then after trying it a few times it started to. And after putting it back in, the motor ran, but only for 10 hours. What am I missing here??? Sounds like a faulty relay.

-Shawn

[racehydro]

So you did not replace this relay yet? I am confused! You said the relay wasn't working at first, and then after trying it a few times it started to. And after putting it back in, the motor ran, but only for 10 hours. What am I missing here??? Sounds like a faulty relay.

-Shawn

No, I have not replaced the relay. I pulled it out and tested it to make sure it was working and it is working fine. Yes, after putting it back in, and checking grounds and fuses, the ignition started working. Ran it for 10 hours and it worked flawlessly and then the ignition just stopped again. Everything else works fine (trim, fuel pump, starter), but the ignition is dead.

WEDCO - I just checked the continuity of the grey wires and they seem fine. I flexed them as I was measuring continuity and didn't see any change.

Redlowrey - I will pull the ECU this week and check those wires and voltages. Sounds like that could be where the problem is.

Thank you so much for your help guys!

Steve

[redlowrey]

No, I have not replaced the relay. I pulled it out and tested it to make sure it was working and it is working fine. Yes, after putting it back in, and checking grounds and fuses, the ignition started working. Ran it for 10 hours and it worked flawlessly and then the ignition just stopped again. Everything else works fine (trim, fuel pump, starter), but the ignition is dead.

WEDCO - I just checked the continuity of the grey wires and they seem fine. I flexed them as I was measuring continuity and didn't see any change.

Redlowrey - I will pull the ECU this week and check those wires and voltages. Sounds like that could be where the problem is.

Thank you so much for your help guys!

Steve

if the fuel pump is working the relay is working with the key on check for voltage at the coil if none ckeck the plug where all the grey wires meet the grey wire that supplies voltage for the inition may be corroded.

[racehydro]

if the fuel pump is working the relay is working with the key on check for voltage at the coil if none ckeck the plug where all the grey wires meet the grey wire that supplies voltage for the inition may be corroded.

Red: I checked and there is no voltage at the coils. It was too dark to check the grey wires but will do that later this week. Thanks for the help!
Steve

[racehydro]

Red: I checked and there is no voltage at the coils. It was too dark to check the grey wires but will do that later this week. Thanks for the help!
Steve

Guys:

I wanted to report back on what has happened with my DF140. After more episodes of the engine quitting with the cause being everything works but no ignition, I think I finally traced the cause.

The main battery ground cable from the engine to the battery had oxidation on the last 4" of the cable where it connects to the battery. I only found it after cutting off the heat shrink and the cable sheath. The oxidation/corrosion was on every strand and even into the crimp connector. I cut off the bad cable and soldered a new connector on and the engine runs perfectly.



Once I repaired the cable the engine would crank faster and the voltage gauge on the dash read about a volt higher. My guess is the voltage drop across this oxidized cable cause the ECU to stop providing power to the ignition. This was evident by the alarms I would some times get that were the result of 'poor ground' connection. Hope this helps someone else.

Steve

[Rougeman]

03df-140

Hey guys, just took my boat out of storage after its been sitting for quite some time, took care of all the oils, and its turning over but not getting any spark, it's not a fuel issues as all injectors are firing, can anyone tell me what the coils are supposed to test too? I can't find it in the Manuel. I have also checked the magneto and it seems fine...I'm stumped. Thanks cheers!!

[redlowrey]

The df140 does not run a magneto, it uses a fully transistorised ignition system, meaning it uses battery voltage to charge the coils primary windings not magnetic induction. What you would have checked out would have been the stator windings for the alternator.