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Greetings! The plastic fuel inlet coupler (where the fuel lines attach) is cracked on 2 out of 4 of the carburetors on my 1986 Suzuki DT-115. This is likely the result of a recent service by my mechanic. When the fuel bulb is squeezed, fuel can be seen leaking out of this fuel fittings. The carburetors are, of course, obsolete. I am considering trying JB Weld Waterweld to stop the leak. It is resistant to fuel. My concern is the adherence to the plastic and how it will hold up to vibration. I do not know the material. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
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dt115, 86, fuel fittings
Are these plastic fittings something you can remove? If removable, take them to an auto parts, or maybe a home depot/ Lowes, another outboard parts store?
If part of carb, then only way to replace is drill out, and have tapped to put a threaded nipple back in. I am not sure if JB weld is good with fuel and plastics. It would gum up needle valves, floats, and jets if it dissolves?
Seems like Suzuki would have something to replace those fittings if they failed in early 90's when still using carbs?
Let us know what you do.Last edited by Solarman; 10-01-2014, 08:06 AM. -
Thanks. The plastic fittings are actually molded into the carburetor body and can not be removed. Maybe they can be drilled out and tapped for a metal fitting. I am dealing with 2 different pieces. One is a single input for the top carb and the others are a in/out for the lower carbs. On the carburetor parts breakdown, the fitting is not listed as its own part number.
The JB Weld WaterWeld product would not dissolve with gasoline and its strength is 900 psi. It adheres to PVC, but I am not sure about this carburetor fitting plastic material. Before applying, I would rough up the plastic surface with a file to improve my chances. Maybe I have nothing to lose by trying...Comment
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Update: I have been advised not to attempt to repair the plastic nozzles. The carburetors are not available. I am running out of options...Comment
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Ok. Who advised this?
the only other option is removing the fittings. If you can warm up just the area under the plastic fitting, the aluminum, it might loosen the epoxy enough to remove the fitting intact. A torch is too large and too hot. Maybe cover the plastic with few layers of foil, even the edge of aluminum- this may keep plastic cool enough to warm the epoxy enough, and use the edge of a hair dryer to warm it up? If you're good, you can do this. Then take the part and match it up at a auto parts, or small engine repair parts place.
Sorry, that's all you can do, unless finding threaded fittings, and making threads in the casting. epoxy a new fitting in, even if brass/ copper, might be better. Threads might not hold well if casting too thin? I would dismantle that part of carb, as much as you can before this.
Good luck, tell us how it goes.Last edited by Solarman; 10-03-2014, 02:48 PM.Comment
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Earlier today I used JB Weld Waterweld as at least a temporary fix. I will report back as to whether that worked or not. I was able to get a good look at the crack. I expect this to work, but I will have always check it for failure. At 28 years old, this motor may not last many more decades.
Thanks!
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jb weld
Good luck, I hope you have many more decades of boating.Comment
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Update: The JB Weld Waterweld stopped the leak and appears to be a strong bond. Thanks to all!Comment
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