1989 DT200 - I'm running out of options?!

[Solarman]

dt200, running issues

It could be back feed, or it may be related to the wires in the console you just went through, maybe one wire connector is close enough to another to touch, or maybe one wire put back on a wrong terminal? Its an easy mistake Chris. I might also check that port side sensor wiring, it could have a wire problem?
But am happy the tach is accurate again.
Let us know how it's going Chris, when able.

[chackett]

Substantial Update..

Good Morning,

Not sure if anyone (other than Solarman) is following my saga, but I had an opportunity to do a good bit of testing and searching this weekend.

I got the boat out a couple times for a proper lake test and it was good and bad.

The good is that I believe the tach is reading correctly now. I wish I knew what I did that fixed it, but the only thing I can figure is that Solarman was right with the little screw on the back of the tach, or maybe there was just a loose wire that got corrected when I went through it all.

The bad is that my rev limiter still kicked on. But I believe it's because of a water flow alarm on the port side. The indicator light remains lit and the alarm sounds (I believe it alarms every 7 seconds for one solid beep). So mu guess is that is causing the rev limiter now.

While I was testing, I noticed some "jitters" in the PTT indicator and the gas gauge ..

I went through all the connections again and checked and tested all the connectors, wires, etc. I wasn't able to find anything obviously wrong.

The condition where the audible alarm sounds whenever a ptt button is pressed remains. However I wasn't able to reproduce the situation where it would sound when any accessory is turned on or off. For example, it used to sound when the bilge pump was turned on or off. Same with nav lights. Seemed like the only device that would cause it was the trim. I checked all the wires from the throttle where the ptt buttons are, all the way back to the relays under the cowling. Everything is solid and secure. I really don't know what's up with it.

I decided to swap the flow sensors to see if the alarm stayed on port (indicating an actual flow problem) or if the alarm moved with the sensor (indicating a sensor problem). The alarm moved with the sensor, so I'm nearly certain I have a bad flow sensor.

I guess I'll leave the alarm problem alone for now, and focus on the issue I'm pretty sure of and can easily fix.

[Solarman]

dt200, 89, running issues

Good move on swapping flow sensors, that was my planned suggestion till I saw you did it. Think I would test the two sensors for ohm readings to see what the difference is, might be shorting out, may cause something like ptt, or alarm issue. Just a possibility. Likewise if rev light goes out, then you can focus on ptt situation, if still a problem.
Yes, am having problems with Web site, had to reset my phone, this caused me to have to reset my pw here, and is still giving some sign on problems. Any way, I got to reply page, but not sure of it will post. Wanted you to know, so you wouldn't think I forgot you, out anyone else. Well try posting now.
Good luck, and let us know. Ill keep trying too. Well it posted. Not sure about future posts for now. But, will try then.

[chackett]

Hey Solarman,

Reply worked fine. I haven't noticed any problem with the website, and your reply posted just fine.

Yeah .. the resistance differences on the flow sensors definitely makes me think there is something wrong. On the good sensor, readings are 0.2 ohms closed and over limit on open. The bad sensor is .3 ohms closed and anywhere from 40 ohms to 100 ohms opened, but never higher, and never OL .

Seems like a pretty simple sensor and probably not worth trying to repair .. but I might take it apart anyway

Thanks!
Chris

[chackett]

Well, I may finally be on top of this one.

My new water flow sensor arrived and I installed it (sort of, more on this later). I got the boat on the water and my first test run would lead me to believe all the gremlins are out. Tachometer appears to be reading accurately and I am not getting any alarms or warning lights or buzzers.

Motor cranked right up (which it has always done) .. idled off the trailer to the courtesy dock, idled out of the no-wake zone and just bumped the throttle to see how the mid-range sounded / felt. It felt good, so ran for just a minute or two at medium throttle. Bumped it again and hopped up on plane. No rev-limiter, no hesitation.

Ran about a mile out of the creek into the main lake. Brought it off plane .. idled around, ran a mile back to the courtesy dock and called it a success.

Thanks so much to Solarman and others who helped along the way. I wish I knew more about what happened here, or what exactly fixed the problem. The only part I actually replaced was the flow sensor.

I am really grateful for the assistance and help, I really appreciate it. And now I'm back in business just in time for the winter striper bite!

Thanks again all .. I'm going to call this one resolved!

Chris

[Solarman]

dt200, running again

I think the tach, reading improperly was setting off the rev limit signal to your computer. My best guess, so all the wiring, repairs you made paid off.
Am glad is working again for you, don't let it sit too long without use, and happy boating.
Ralph

[chackett]

You could definitely be right.

Oh .. I never did mention the small problem I have with the new water flow sensor. The housing of the sensor is slightly thicker than the original, so the screws aren't long enough to catch and secure the sensor to the block. I'm going to either have to get longer screws or shave down the housing to match the original. The screws look like short, coarse thread screws .. they're not machine screws so it doesn't look like a screw I can just pick up at the hardware store.

Also, the new sensor has three wires, where the original had only 2. There's the black ground, the green with a sleeve that is the flow sensor and there is a third .. I think it's maybe purple. I can't remember what color it is .. does anyone know what the extra wire is on the new sensor? Maybe they integrated a temp sensor in it or something,?

Thanks,
Chris

[Solarman]

Am wondering if they gave you the wrong sensor, maybe it is for a 4 stroke motor?
Should check part number, and compare with your new sensor, it may not be compatible?

[chackett]

Am wondering if they gave you the wrong sensor, maybe it is for a 4 stroke motor?
Should check part number, and compare with your new sensor, it may not be compatible?

It's the correct part number, and it fits perfectly into the hole of the water jacket, and the resistance readings across ground to the green wire is what I expected. It tests the same as the other, good sensor. Also, it fits tightly enough that I was able to start the motor without the hold down screws and it all functions as expected.

In case anyone cares, the part is part number 26 on figure 3 (page B5) on this parts diagram. It's listed as part# 34870-87D01 for left and 34870-94602 for right. The only difference is the length of the connecting wires.

Looking the parts up at brownspoint shows that 34870-94602 has been replaced with 34870-94630 and as you can see, it has the three connectors on it. I don't know what that other wire is for. It only has 2 on the parts diagram. And 34870-87D01 has been replaced with 34870-87D10, and it's got the three connectors too.

I think I'll just have to shave the area down a little .. and secure it .. it definitely gives the correct resistance readings and it fits in the hole .. so I'll just make it work!

Thanks!
Chris

[chackett]

Just a quick update ..

I was able to use my dremmel to reduce the bulk around the bracket for attaching the new water sensor.

I've had the boat out several times and it's been running great. No issues at all. Smooth responsive and reliable so far. Hopefully it'll stay that way for the winter striper bite on Lanier!

Chris

[Solarman]

dt225, running well again.

Thanks Chris for this update. Great to hear motor is running well. Know it took a bit of time, but hopeful you will fill the boat with your catches. And if you have a little spare time, with all your experience (now) on oil, and electrical systems, you might look in on us from time to time, to see if your able to help any of these problems that arise. God luck and happy fishing. And thanks for working patiently with us to try and help you. Ralph

[Solarman]

chackett, you still here?

Chris, any chance you're still around?
Look up a handle: spruill242
Has a dt 225, needs some pointers on oil system. I remembered you went through yours, maybe you can help him with his?

[chackett]

*** .. I can't believe how much time has passed. I am still running this motor. Very strong and reliable .. she's a tad thirsty, but still very reliable. It was obviously a long time ago, and I doubt spruill242 is still looking for help, but if I can offer anything, I certainly will.

[oooskie]

Hi Chris, Glad to hear your engine is still running well. I'm having similar tach symptoms to what you were dealing with, except the engine runs pretty well.
I just bought a 1988 Hydra Sports DV 200FF with a 1987 Suzuki DT200 and found this thread while looking for info on where to start troubleshooting my tachometer issues.
I hope Ralph / Solarman and others that were so helpful are still on here as well. Nice to see such a great group of folks willing to help!
Ill run through the stuff you did and see where it leads me.
Alan

[oooskie]

update: cleaned and re attached all wiring connections around the tack and it started working most of the time. its not real steady at idle, but the engine sort of lopes like a hot rod as well, so maybe its just "picking up what the engine is laying down".
There is a bit of a gasoline odor at idle as well, I suspect it is ignition related. Although it seems to run well at about any throttle position above idle so IDK..
I checked compression before purchase and all cylinders were 90psi +/- about 3.
I'm gonna run a couple of tanks with Sea Foam Marine Pro and see if it clears up, uless anyone has any suggestions?