1989 DT200 - I'm running out of options?!

[chackett]

Thnx Chris. Think you should have a different reading, and when gear goes by it should change readings.

OK .. so the new gear counting coil arrived today. It definitely seems to bw reading differently than the one that's installed. Obviously I don't have any flywheel teeth here at the house to test it with, but I do have various metal things I can bring near the coil to see if it changes anything. It does seem to fluctuate, so maybe that's my problem. I hope.

My schedule during the week is kind of difficult, but I'm really going to try and leave the office early one day so I can get up there and test it out.

I'll keep you posted. .. I'll also post the resistance of the new coil in a bit.

Thanks,
Chris

EDIT:

The new coil reads .191 on the 20k ohm scale which seems awfully close to .20 that I was getting on the one that's currently installed on the boat. I'll swap them out and let you know what happens... Oh .. also I changed my meter to the 0-200 ohms scale so it was easier to see fluctuations .. and there were plenty, but at rest the reading is 191.4 ohms.

[Solarman]

dt200, running issues

Your reading seemed out from those i've tested, and questioned about here, and you mentioned it did not change when you moved a tooth in front of it. likewise, when in place, adjusted properly, and you read it, it has to fluctuate when the teeth move past it. This is how the computer receives the teeth count signal. Combined with the TPS/TVS and the timing coils, the computer knows the exact position, and speed of the crankshaft.

When you looked at the back of the tach, did you see a black rubber plug? Under the black plug on my tachs is the switch for the different poles it reads. If your tach has that, notice what position it is in, then change it a few times back and forth, then put it back in original position.

Anyway, good luck and let us know after installing, and trying these things.

[chackett]

So FRUSTRATING .. I did it to myself .. but so dang frustrating.

I brought my new gear counting coil up to the boat and swapped it out .. pretty easy to get to and a simple swap out. Used the multimeter to check resistance readings while slightly turning the flywheel. Definitely got variations.

As soon as I put the key in the ignition, it hit me like a ton of bricks .. I forgot to bring the battery back!!!! I took it out last time so I could charge it at home, and I forgot to bring it back. Dangit.

On a related note, you might remember that earlier in the thread I mentioned that I found a blown fuse. Specifically it was part #17 on figure 15 of this document. Since that was the fuse that was blown, I wonder if that that "points" me to the voltage regulator / rectifier as a potential culprit.

I assume if this fuse to the regulator/rectifier is blown then the regulator/rectifier can't operate. What is the consequence of that? I don't know how long this fuse was blown for.

Thanks,
Chris

[Solarman]

dt200, running issues

Can check manual on fuse, there are specific ways to test the regulator, but battery had to be low on charge to test it... Ha ha, just like forgetting battery. We can't win sometimes.lol put a new fuse in, fire it up, see if any codes pop up. Check running, then if All's well turn off and check fuse again. If ok, take it out for a run.
Let us know how it goes. Wouldn't worry bout fuse unless it blows again.

[chackett]

Can check manual on fuse, there are specific ways to test the regulator, but battery had to be low on charge to test it... Ha ha, just like forgetting battery. We can't win sometimes.lol put a new fuse in, fire it up, see if any codes pop up. Check running, then if All's well turn off and check fuse again. If ok, take it out for a run.
Let us know how it goes. Wouldn't worry bout fuse unless it blows again.

Here's at least part of what my manual says about the regulator / rectifier and testing it:

In the charging system the regulator/rectifier is the most complex item to
troubleshoot. You can avoid Troubleshooting the regulator/rectifier by checking
around it. Check the battery and charge or replace it as needed. Check the AC
voltage output of the lighting coil. If AC voltage is low check the charge coil for
proper resistance and insulation to ground. If these check OK measure the
resistance of the Black wire from the rectifier/regulator to ground and for proper
voltage output on the Red lead coming from the rectifier/regulator going to the
battery. If all the above check within specification replace the rectifier/regulator
and verify the repair by performing a charge rate test.

I'm also attaching the portion of the schematic showing the rectifier/regulator. You may recall that I earlier mentioned that I noticed when depressing the trim/tilt buttons, I am getting an audible alarm. I see in this schematic that the rectifier/regulator is connected to the PTT relay.

Seems like a new regulator / rectifier is about $80 on ebay, and a supposedly working used one can be had for about $40. Maybe I ought to just replace it .. I'll keep looking through the manual to see if I can find more information on testing the regulator/rectifier.

Also .. Solarman .. you mention to see if any codes pop up. Does this motor (1986 DT200) actually throw codes or something? It would be awesome if I had some kind of diagnostic code to work with..

Thanks,
Chris

[Solarman]

rectifier/ regulator

Correct, it truly might be easier to just replace it. As far as codes popping up. I know they had sensors, and a monitor gauge, but you would have to research the manual for that year and to what codes would be indicated for your motor. Both My motors were '94, c/o for '99's. Before that? Your guess is better than mine.
Also know if diodes are bad/burnt replace is only repair.
Keep me updated on how you're doing

[chackett]

I ordered a new (well, new to me) rectifier / voltage regulator assembly from eBay. Should arrive on Friday. I'll test it and let you know what happens.

Incidentally, I still haven't been up to test the new gear counting coil, so to be thorough, I guess I'll lake test it with the new gear counting coil before I install the regulator/rectifier.

This past weekend I took a short road trip to help a buddy go pick up his boat. We were way out in the boondocks of middle Georgia at the mechanic where the boat has been for a while. The mechanic there looked straight out of Deliverance .. probably has a 3rd grade education, but probably a genius for engines and mechanics. Anyway, I described my problem to him, and he seemed confident that it's a bad regulator / rectifier. I guess on Saturday we're going to find out.

Chris

[WEDOCQ]

Chris,
I really think you should do a proper compression test and leak down test before you throw any more money at parts. These two tests will give you a real and true picture of the mechanical health of your motor. If your compression test numbers are true, the compression is too low and the motor is not going to run properly. So I would definitely start there.
-Shawn

[chackett]

Chris,
I really think you should do a proper compression test and leak down test before you throw any more money at parts. These two tests will give you a real and true picture of the mechanical health of your motor. If your compression test numbers are true, the compression is too low and the motor is not going to run properly. So I would definitely start there.
-Shawn

Thanks for the response. I appreciate it. I have read in other places that this motor is a low compression motor and that compression readings in the 90 psi range isn't that uncommon. I definitely don't know for sure myself, and have nothing really to go on other than what I've read from others on the internet (and who knows if they're right or not).

I have already ordered the voltage regulator / rectifier and it should be delivered today, so it's too late for that. When it arrives, I'll get it installed and test things out and report back.

I do have a question about "low" or "bad" compression readings. First .. what are the odds that all 6 cylinders would loose the same amount of compression at the same time? Is loosing compression something that happens gradually, over time, or does it happen suddenly?

I ask, because this motor has been running like a top all summer long and then just suddenly started exhibiting the systems that got this whole thread started. And poor compression I don't think would cause my tachometer to read 2x actual engine RPM I don't believe.

[njackson]

I have a 1987 DT200 and my engine measures 115 - 120 psi on a compression test, so 90 sounds low to me. But you're right in what you say, it's unlikely that all 6 cylinders have worn at the same rate. Maybe you have an innaccurate compression tester and that is actually reading low, can you source another one to try?

[chackett]

I have a 1987 DT200 and my engine measures 115 - 120 psi on a compression test, so 90 sounds low to me. But you're right in what you say, it's unlikely that all 6 cylinders have worn at the same rate. Maybe you have an innaccurate compression tester and that is actually reading low, can you source another one to try?

Well, I agree that based on what yours reads mine sounds low for sure. I will get another rested and see what the deal is. I just borrowed one from my local O'Reilley auto parts. I'll either borrow one from auto zone or buy one at harbor freight.

Also I think my motor is actually an 86 .. But I don't think that makes a huge difference.

I'll keep y'all posted. Thanks for the help all.

Chris

[Solarman]

tach reading

Did you check the back of your tach for that rubber plug? If you have the plug there is a switch under it. Try switching back and fourth but put right back in same place, if don't have it, then it is probably the tach unit on side of motor.

your compression doesn't sound too bad, the cylinders are equal. It is an older motor.

Let us know how it's going when the parts are in Chris.

[WEDOCQ]

Low compression across all cylinders, but minimal leaking on the leak down test could indicate an issue with the valve timing. A compression test and leak down test are fairly cheap and easy to do yourself, and will help you determine if its worth throwing more money at.
-Shawn

[Moonlighter]

Low compression across all cylinders, but minimal leaking on the leak down test could indicate an issue with the valve timing. A compression test and leak down test are fairly cheap and easy to do yourself, and will help you determine if its worth throwing more money at.
-Shawn

Ah, its a 2-stroke....

No valves!

[chackett]

Did you check the back of your tach for that rubber plug? If you have the plug there is a switch under it. Try switching back and fourth but put right back in same place, if don't have it, then it is probably the tach unit on side of motor.

your compression doesn't sound too bad, the cylinders are equal. It is an older motor.

Let us know how it's going when the parts are in Chris.

Disappointing news to report today. The parts arrived and I spent the late afternoon installing them.

First of all, that dang area of electronics box where the low oil reset is, is a pain to work in. I took several pictures to make sure I could get it all reconnected properly. I did get it all taken out, removed the old rectifier and got the new one installed. Connected it all up, dropped it in the water and I think the problem is worse!! It looks now to me like the tach is 3 or 4 times the actual rpm.

At idle it sounds very strong and smooth. The engine is definitely running very nicely, so I feel confident that I will eventually get this worked out, but it sure is frustrating.

I also feel a little encouraged that at least I have probably figured out where this issue is generally located. Since I was in this area messing around and the symptoms have changed, I feel like I am at least poking around in the right area.

I am starting to wonder if I have a grounding issue? I read many threads where that has been a difficult to diagnose or hard to find issue that produces all sorts of strange problems.

I guess for now I will re-check all the connections and grounds under the cowling and see if there is anything I missed.

Also, solarman, I did check for the plug you mentioned on the back of the tach, and I wasn't able to see anything like that. Next time I go up, I will take a pic and attach it.

The only other thing that has ever been mentioned to me as something to replace is the tachometer control unit.

Still at it,
Chris