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2012 115 Suzuki oil light

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  • 2012 115 Suzuki oil light

    Hopefully someone can help me. I am getting an intermittent oil light on my 115 Suzuki (on an Alumacraft Competitor, if that matters). It usually comes on after a few minutes of running, sometimes it will shut off after a while, the light is not blinking, the oil level is up where it should be, there is no warning horn and the motor seems to run fine.

    What RPM is the motor limited to in the "emergency mode" (or whatever it is called)?

    Thanks for any advice,

  • #2
    RPM limiting depends on the fault. For oil pressure it's 1000 RPM. The rev limt light also illuminates, accompanied by alarm horn. If your oil pressure light is coming on intermittently without the accompanying RPM limiting and alarm, it could be a short in the wire to the light or I guess, a malfunctioning oil pressure switch. Although i would think that if the switch were the culprit, the ECM would read it as an actual fault and initiate the fault procedure.
    Mike

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, Mike.

      Unless symptoms change, I am inclined to not worry about it too much until I take the boat out of the water to winterize it. Just wanted to get some other opinions.

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      • #4
        I got the boat back from the dealer after they winterized and checked out the oil light. They said there were no oil codes stored in the computer and to "keep an eye on it".

        So I still have the oil light coming on, sometimes bright, sometimes dimmer, sometimes it flickers, sometimes it goes off for a little while than comes back on. Still no warning horn and the motor runs fine but I don't like running with the oil light on.

        Does anyone know what triggers the oil light ( sensor, switch, etc.)?

        Appreciate any advice.

        Thank you.

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        • #5
          It sounds like a faulty switch, but disregarding it could be costly if in fact it has got low oil pressure. When the engine is not running with the key on, the contacts in the switch will be closed, and battery voltage will flow to earth bringing the light on, when the engine is running oil pressure will open the contacts and the switch will be open and the light go's out.. I cant believe you got it back from the dealer and did not check the switch out.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by redlowrey View Post
            It sounds like a faulty switch, but disregarding it could be costly if in fact it has got low oil pressure. When the engine is not running with the key on, the contacts in the switch will be closed, and battery voltage will flow to earth bringing the light on, when the engine is running oil pressure will open the contacts and the switch will be open and the light go's out.. I cant believe you got it back from the dealer and did not check the switch out.
            My DF-60 does the same thing and the mechanic at our Suzuki dealer said he has never seen that happen before then he said if it has oil in it it will be ok to run they have done regular servicing and there are no warning codes that show a problem fit has been an issue or 3 years now. I am afraid to run my motor now I purchased it new.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Lloydkelly View Post

              My DF-60 does the same thing and the mechanic at our Suzuki dealer said he has never seen that happen before then he said if it has oil in it it will be ok to run they have done regular servicing and there are no warning codes that show a problem fit has been an issue or 3 years now. I am afraid to run my motor now I purchased it new.
              I believe there is a 3 year warranty on Suzuki outboards? If this issue was documented while the warranty was in effect one would think they would fix it under warranty. For piece of mind you could check the oil pressure, bungee cord it to the engine somehow and go for a ride keeping an eye on the gauge.

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              • #8
                They should have removed the switch and checked what the oil pressure was at idle and at 2000rpm, which should be around 20 psi at idle and around 60 psi at 2000 rpm hot. Put a new switch in regardless if faulty or not seeing you have to remove it to check the pressure. Then proceed with the electrical side if the pressure was ok.
                It would give you piece of mind knowing that the oil pressure was ok even if you didn't fix the electrical problem.

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