df115 2006 overheat alarm

[kiwiflya]

Hi guys having a very annoying and frustrating alarm issue with outboard. Its a beep from the controller (throttle unit) is a single beep with a seven 7 second gap inbetween.

Usually at idle it beeps and the engine shuts down.

The indications i get are frmo the auzuki gauge a temp alarm (temp indication on speedo).

I have tested the thermostat, replaced the impeller swapped temperature sensors around and a few other things.

Had some diagnostics run and nothing showed up regarding overtemp alarms.

Really dont know what to do now.

Any ideas??

i was on the water for 8 hours the other day with out turning motor off and it happened just once which is good. But still an annoyance.
Serial
DF115
1501F-683054

[artdf175]

Can I assume you are running it on muffs?
I have heard of problems caused by low water pressure from a hose
Give more specifics
Art

[kiwiflya]

Really sorry, didnt get an email saying my post had been replied to.

Anyways, no this problem always occurs at sea, i wish it happened on the muffs then i could get someone to diagnose onshore. Not sure what else i can tell you that would help. The aural alarm is coming from the throttle controller unit and the suzuki temp gauge stays illuminated. The beep is about 2 seconds long and 7 seconds in between. Cheers

[Solarman]

df115, overheating alarm

Does this happen at idle? Or is it happening when you go above say 2000 RPMs?
Am wondering if exhaust is blocking water flow going to water pump, possibly due to grommets, that separate exhaust and water Chambers, being worn, or burned out?
Is pee stream strong, or does it spit/sputter at higher RPMs?

[shansgonefishin]

Check exhaust plug on port side of engine block, my df115 did the same thing. It corrodes out and the exhaust gets into the air intake under the cover and screws with the sensor. Need to take the skirt off to see the plug, it's about the size of a quarter with an Allan key hole in the center. A good test would when it stops take the engine cover off and see if it runs better.

You can have the plug removed and a good alloy welder can weld a cover plate over it and ya good to go.

Might not be it but worth a check, I think I put my situation on hulltruth just search exhaust plug df115 or similar...

Good luck

[kiwiflya]

I took the temperature just after this happened and was about 80 degrees celcius which seems normal. This problem is most frequent when at idle in reverse. The engine holder on this motor has been swapped out so its not the corrosion problem unfortunately.

The tach indicates a temp alarm but th beep code indicated rectifier/regulator.

Still at a loss as to whats wrong.

[redlowrey]

Next time it happens check and see what the battery voltage is. if it is low the check engine light will come on plus the buzzer, if it is high the check engine light will flash the code and buzzer and the voltage will be over sixteen volts. I think the problem is the temp caution system coming on, it won't log a code it is letting you know that you are reaching the upper limits of the cyl temp and the exhaust manifold temp. Will the light go off if you put it in neutral and bring the rev's by the warm up leever.

[redlowrey]

I forgot to add, you might have a salt build up in the cyl head or the pressure valve in the leg is stuck open not keeping water pressure up in the engine.

[Solarman]

Kiwi, posting so many older messages will only confuse the help people are trying to give you. Stop adding new posts, and work with us.

If you are serious about needing some help, then stop playing games here.

[WEDOCQ]

I took the temperature just after this happened and was about 80 degrees celcius which seems normal. This problem is most frequent when at idle in reverse. The engine holder on this motor has been swapped out so its not the corrosion problem unfortunately.

The tach indicates a temp alarm but th beep code indicated rectifier/regulator.

Still at a loss as to whats wrong.

I was getting a random overheat alarm as well. I used my infrared and couldn't find anything on my engine that appeared to be running too hot. I have my DF140 networked with my Lowrance, and the temp wasn't showing hot either. There are 2 temp sensors, one on top close to the thermostat, and one on the rectifier. I disconnected the one up top, and still got the alarm. I then disconnected the one on the rectifier, and the alarm went away. I replaced that sensor. I do not have enough hours on the motor since replacing the sensor to know for certain it was the issue (since it was just a random occurrence), but I am guessing I am right.
-Shawn

[redlowrey]

If you remove the connector from either the cyl temp sensor or the exhaust manifold sensor it will automatically log a code, and the check engine light flashing a 1.5 or a 1.4 code. With the key on the buzzer will buzz the code, What you say when you disconnected the exhaust manifold sensor plug the buzzer went away, it should have flashed a 1.5 code with the buzzer.

[kiwiflya]

Next time it happens check and see what the battery voltage is. if it is low the check engine light will come on plus the buzzer, if it is high the check engine light will flash the code and buzzer and the voltage will be over sixteen volts. I think the problem is the temp caution system coming on, it won't log a code it is letting you know that you are reaching the upper limits of the cyl temp and the exhaust manifold temp. Will the light go off if you put it in neutral and bring the rev's by the warm up leever.

Thanks for this. I run a dual battery system through a BEP VSR charging mgmt system. The voltage read from the fishfinder when the problem occurs is the usual 13.6V or so. I dont get a engine check light but rather a high temp light coming on. I am unable to put it into neutral and increase revs as the when the alarm sounds the engine is cut instantly.

[kiwiflya]

Does this happen at idle? Or is it happening when you go above say 2000 RPMs?
Am wondering if exhaust is blocking water flow going to water pump, possibly due to grommets, that separate exhaust and water Chambers, being worn, or burned out?
Is pee stream strong, or does it spit/sputter at higher RPMs?

Hi Solarman, sorry slow learner as to how respond to input.
Yes its an idle problem. No not occured above 2000rpm.
Pee stream seems strong and solid at higher revs. I have had time when a genuine over heat occured and was logged on computer but this only ever put the boat in limp mode and was as much higher revs.
I took the temp with an infrared gun after the alarm occured and it was at about the temp that the thermostat is rated at.

[kiwiflya]

Can I assume you are running it on muffs?
I have heard of problems caused by low water pressure from a hose
Give more specifics
Art

Nope was in open sea at the time.

[kiwiflya]

Check exhaust plug on port side of engine block, my df115 did the same thing. It corrodes out and the exhaust gets into the air intake under the cover and screws with the sensor. Need to take the skirt off to see the plug, it's about the size of a quarter with an Allan key hole in the center. A good test would when it stops take the engine cover off and see if it runs better.

You can have the plug removed and a good alloy welder can weld a cover plate over it and ya good to go.

Might not be it but worth a check, I think I put my situation on hulltruth just search exhaust plug df115 or similar...

Good luck

Has new engine holder minus any dummy plug hole.