Just purchased a used pontoon boat with a 2007 Suzuki DF115 outboard. Changed oil, checked the lower end etc., before going out for the initial cruise. Noticed the Check Engine light was/is on constantly. No blinking lights or alarms. Looked in the service manual provided and it does not state whether this light should or should not be on during normal operation. Motor performed well during the test run but I will need to replace the impellor soon. Told by the dealership tech, over the phone, that the Check Engine light on the round display is always lite ... just don't make sense to me that it would be on constantly? Should this Check Engine light be on constantly? If not what do I do to correct the issue? Thanks in advance for any advise.
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newbee
wondering if anyone cleared the system after changing oil
Since no one else responded.. you might clear any codes and then check to see if once that procedure is done, if any other error codes resurface.
I am without my motor manual.. but --if some will correct me if I am wrong here -
turn the engine key to on (do not start motor)
within 10 seconds you need to pull out the red stop button, back side of shift lever, -from memory - 5 times in something like 10 seconds..
That should clear all error codes.. Next time you start motor.. if any error codes re-appear, you will be able to know what error codes may have been tripped
Art..........
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Did a reset today. The Check engine light remains on. Also tried testing the battery for proper voltage .... then disconnecting the battery ... then doing the reset again. Check Engine light remains on? The gauge does not show any code(s) blinking etc. Just a constant Check Engine light??
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First when you tried to reset did you remove the stop switch plate? The little red tag that pulls out of the switch. Can sometimes have s lanyard attached
Pull that plate out. Turn key to on, have ten seconds to pull out the round switch head 3 times. Turn off key
The 4 things that I see that cause the lamp to be continuous are
Over revolution - no buzzer
Low oil pressure /long series of 1.5 sev beeps
Overheat / same series of beeps
Low battery and series of beeps
There are two sets of cautions with low battery mostly dealing with deteriorated battery - poor cable connections etc
How old is the battery? With an '07 there is a possibility it has an old battery's
If you have not checked battery terminals - ground wires etc be a good time to go through them
Seems there have been a lot of problems fixed on this forum just cleaning up connections
All but the over revs should give you a buzzer
Which brings up a point- you did not mention the buzzer
When you first turn on key you should get a 2 second buzzer
????
Hope this is helpful
Art
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I would try using battery jumper cables from battery to motor connections and retry. it might be a bad cable showing correct voltage but not allowing enough amps.
I would also check voltages with the motor running to be sure the regulator and charging system is working correctly, it may not be putting out full power.
these are two things to check, "just in case" because they can trigger engine fault codes too
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Art / JW
Hopefully I'll get a chance to look into my Check Engine light issue again tonight. Catching a lot of rain here in the evenings so no good time to look at the reset or possible electrical connections. I did check the voltage at the battery, 12.7 (not running) and the voltage gauge at the dash (with the key on/not running) reflects the same reading. Battery is, as I recall is, 4/2013.
Tried the reset Art as you described above the other night, didn't change anything but I will go through the same sequence this evening and be diligent in following the sequence you describe.
When I turn the key to on/not running all the indicator lights ... lite and there is a sound that goes away after a few seconds. All the indicators lights go out one at a time with only the Check Engine light remaining lite at the end of that sequence with no sound after several seconds.
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You needn't go through a reset with the emergency cut-off. It's the oil pressure light that blinks when an oil change is due, not the check engine light. Going through that reset procedure does not effect the CEL. Any actual fault that causes the CEL to flash will be reset by the ECM once the fault is cleared by replacing a bad sensor or correcting the problem, etc. You cannot reset the CEL manually.
I think keakar is on the right track, since the CEL is sensitive to voltage problems. So with what seems to be a good battery, there's likely something in the wiring, or the battery cables themselves that needs attention. Low voltage (for whatever reason) is the only thing that I know of that will cuase a continuous CEL light, although that is supposed to be accompanied by a series of 1½ second beeps. jw1957 just went through a similar problem, but also his engine would not crank. Turned out to be a bad connection on the starter motor. But he did have the same continuous CEL light, and I venture that the wire to the starter had sent enough bad electrical info to the ECM that it caused the same indication that you have. So I'm thinking that you should stick with a systematic check of your wiring.Mike
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I think Keaker point it well taken.. but would be very careful..
I would start with double checking condition of cables any deterioration would make them suspect..
Also, if you have not.. take the cables off the battery terminal.. make sure they are bright and shiny and tight when you put back together..
and double check all the points where the ground wire attaches
JW made a good point on the cable end that goes to the starter motor
I think there have been several threads where that connection has been found at fault .. looked ok but when taken apart contacts were not clean..
a year old battery should not be at fault
aren't electrical problems fun!!!!!!!!!!
good luck.. let us know how you do..
art..
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No luck to date. Light remains on. Inspected everything from the suggestions above. Voltage is great, terminals clean etc. Don't have a clue what is causing the light to remain on. The boat runs out just fine at top end RPM's and at idle etc. No codes, blinking etc. to point to a specific thing. Anyone ever have to replace the reset button? Maybe it has developed some corrosion on the inside and will not allow for a reset.
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I'll go back through the wiring as suggested. My son is a electrical engineer and is excellent with anything electronic, also a pretty good mechanic. Need to get him involved as well. Could an accessory like the radio, navigation lights, depth finder etc., or the buss bar under the console with a possible bad connection cause interference and subsequently cause the CE to remain lite? . I'll look at everything.
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This is silly. If in fact the CEL is on then pull the codes or have a Suzuki do it for you. The reasons for a CEL are way too numerous to assume it is electrical related. Just like you car the Suzuki outboards, the ECM manages and monitors your engine operating systems and it has detected a fault. The fault could be real or the sensor may be faulty but trying to chase a code by checking every possibility is IMHO like looking for a needle in a haystack.
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