2007 DF 175 No start/solid CE light

[jw1957]

I have a solid Check engine light with a long beep / no start or trim. Lost....

[artdf175]

Do you have power to the other instruments at the dash ?
There is a power source from battery switch to dash. This has an inline fuse -my fuse is the main power connection under the dash the also powers everything else
Start at the battery switch and carefully check all spliced wiring connect points
In my case the connection off the battery switch lead corroded totally
There have been a number of discussion on this problem
If you go to the search page -click on advanced search and search along line of power trim loss -
Art

[Harper]

Got your pm, jw, and I'm looking..... by no start, do you mean it will not even crank (as with a dead battery), or just won't fire?

[Harper]

Okay, jw.... is this your situation? It seems definitely to be electrical in nature. As Art said, you need to systematically check everything in your electrical system. You've already replaced the harness, so check the fuses, main fuse especially. Check the ignition switch, the emergency cutoff switch, the main battery switch, all connections. Check all these things for continuity, not just a visual inspection. Get into the wiring in your dashboard and look for corrosion. Also the electrical box on the motor itself for bad connections and corrosion. Eliminate all these possible sources of electrical discontinuity.

[jw1957]

2007 df 175 no start/solid ce light

ok . I think the main fuse you are talking about is actually part of the new harness (yellow fuse holder 10 Amp). I double checked that and its ok. The other fuse would be in the white wire , that's ok. The fuse box on the panel looks ok fuses are good , no visible corrosion whatsoever. Motor is super clean with no sign of corrosion on anything. I'm starting to think maybe the ignition switch is defective. I cant go to the marina till the morning but plan on checking voltage on all three wires involved in all three positions -off -on-start.

Answer for the other question... the motor will not crank. The normal check lights do not come on when you turn the key . The CE light solid no crank and a long beep. This is something new now.

I think its got to be a connection and I checked almost everything for corrosion so I'm really getting frustrated . Afraid to take it out of the slip at the marina. One note : check engine light came on and then went off when I backed off throttle engine kind of stumbled . This was before this issue we are discussing and was when [I] launched the boat Friday eve to take it to the marina.Luckly I made the 2-3 mile trip.

[jw1957]

Do you have power to the other instruments at the dash ?
There is a power source from battery switch to dash. This has an inline fuse -my fuse is the main power connection under the dash the also powers everything else
Start at the battery switch and carefully check all spliced wiring connect points
In my case the connection off the battery switch lead corroded totally
There have been a number of discussion on this problem
If you go to the search page -click on advanced search and search along line of power trim loss -
Art

all wiring have been clean and have good connections . battery switch is clean and working properly. all the other gauges are working/
getting frustrated ....but wont give up.....

[Harper]

I have never tried this, so I don't know (perhaps someone else does) whether the motor will quit if you turn off the battery switch. My guess is that it will, and if so, then loss of battery power for a second would cause the stumble, could also prevent start, of course, and could be the source of all sorts of maladies. I know you can't check the internals on the battery switch, but you can make continuity and voltage checks at the terminals. Jiggle the switch as you test. Do the same with the ignition and emergency shut-off switches.

The fuses I was referring to are not in the harness. There is a 60 amp main fuse and a 30 amp starter motor relay fuse (along with a 30 amp battery isolator fuse, and several other smaller fuses) all located in the fuse box on the left side of the engine. These are the fuses you should check, and not just visually. Check them for continuity. Sometimes a fuse will look good on a visual inspection but still be bad.

One last question.....the long beep....you mean one continuous beep that goes as long as you have the key on, or a recurring long duration beep?

[artdf175]

JW.. as I mentioned.. go back to the wiring one more time
I had an intermittent problem..until it just quit.. was very frustrated like you.. everything looked good until---
I just happened to be pulling wiring to track down connections..
I pulled on the short pig tail off the battery switch that connects to the white wire going to the dash and throttle..
with a slight tug.. the connection came apart.. copper wire was completely corroded inside..not visible .. the connector was just holding together with pressure on the wire insulation ...
Also, there was another thread on this subject had to do with making sure the ground connections were all clean and tight..
Art..

[artdf175]

thread on April 14, 2014
"No power at the helm, remote trim not working, no power to Key switch"

this had a number of good points

art..

[jw1957]

Found bad connection at the starter , pink wire had a bad crimp , was supposed to be soldered and was not. This corroded and caused varying voltage making motor ECM go wacky . Dealer hooked up , no codes , runs great again. Back in the saddle.......

[artdf175]

that is very good... it is such a relief to find a solution to these problems
and finding that problem will help others as well
I do think that a bad connection at the starter has come up before
thanks for the feedback..
art

[jw1957]

Thanks for you input .