Df115 hitting rev limiter at 3000rpms

[keakar]

yes, unless your getting a backfeed reading from somewhere else showing on the wire. its hard to judge things unless everything is unplugged so you don't have strange backfeed issues.

for example if something had voltage supplied to a coil it will read less voltage after it goes through that coil because of the resistance where switches shouldn't have any voltage drop.

at this point I think its warranted to bring it to the shop, yes it will cost a few dollars but it will be fixed quickly and you can enjoy your boat rather then work on it. if they tell you whats wrong and its a super expensive part (like the ECM) then see if you can get the part from ebay from a used motor

[Suzukijosh]

Hello again I wanted to give a little update. I've been so busy working I haven't had time to bring my boat to the boat doctor and get them to scan it. I put a new filter on it today and noticed something. If I blow into the fuel tank using the fuel line the check valve at the fuel tank apparently isn't working. Another thing I noticed is that the fuel cap started hissing as I was blowing into the hose so apparently the vent must be blocked so I will diagnose that tomorrow when I get off.
And another thing that I haven't noticed. Shouldn't I get a beep or chirp when I turn the key to the run position? ( I will pull and test the horn tomorrow also) The gauges/lights all light up then go away and the tach goes up to almost 2,000 then drops to zero. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I am trying to learn much as possible.

I also cleaned the vst tank and little screen filter but it was clean already.

I think it's a electrical problem like someone previously mentioned but with no codes I hate spending $100 if the boat doctor won't be able to help me.

[keakar]

Hello again I wanted to give a little update. I've been so busy working I haven't had time to bring my boat to the boat doctor and get them to scan it. I put a new filter on it today and noticed something. If I blow into the fuel tank using the fuel line the check valve at the fuel tank apparently isn't working. Another thing I noticed is that the fuel cap started hissing as I was blowing into the hose so apparently the vent must be blocked so I will diagnose that tomorrow when I get off.
And another thing that I haven't noticed. Shouldn't I get a beep or chirp when I turn the key to the run position? ( I will pull and test the horn tomorrow also) The gauges/lights all light up then go away and the tach goes up to almost 2,000 then drops to zero. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I am trying to learn much as possible.

I also cleaned the vst tank and little screen filter but it was clean already.

I think it's a electrical problem like someone previously mentioned but with no codes I hate spending $100 if the boat doctor won't be able to help me.

vent:
well it depends on the tank you have, if its a portable tank the vents are in the caps so it should hiss but if its a mounted tank it could have a separate vent fitting or it could have a vented cap just like the portable tanks have.

check valve:
again it depends on the tank you have but the portables may or may not have check valves depending on brand and how new they are. the permanent tanks can be a crap shoot if it has a check valve or not but most can add one at the fuel connection fitting. the primer bulb will act as a check valve if it is positioned correctly with it in a vertical position so the check ball can block the fuel from flowing the wrong way and losing prime. some better quality primer bulbs may not be as dependent on the position .

horn:
well on my DF40 its a long tone but I guess you can call it a beep, it lasts about 3 to 4 seconds long and drives me nuts lol. inside the control box the horn has just two wires so its easy enough to test it but as to what controls it and all that I would guess its the ECM that tells it what to do and when to go off.

[Suzukijosh]

It's a stainless tank built into the boat and the vent does tie into the filler cap area.
I just dropped her off at the boat doctor to get it scanned I will post what it is soon as I get the results back thanks again for the help everyone.

[Suzukijosh]

picked up the boat from the shop on my way to work and they found no problems with the scan they did on it and i didnt even get charged the normal $90 for a scan!!!!
so if these engines give codes like vehicles and there are no codes that indicates a fuel issue to my knowledge of trouble shooting. That being said i am going to replace every fuel line since i have new fuel filters installed(except the high pressure one since it has no resistance at all when i blow through it. i will also clean injectors and i am going to pull the fuel tank out of the boat and clean it again.

as of now the only known problem is the fuel line checkvalve on the tank when i blew pressure back into the tank it acted like there wasnt a check valve in it at all.
and i lost my transom saver on the way to work :-( i didnt even think to see if they had it installed properly when i left the boat shop.
i will give a update tomorrow on my hopefully internally collapsed fuel lines.

Does anyone know if the manual shows how to clean injectors? im at work and would like to study up on it over the night so i can pull them and start cleaning soon as i get home. thanks

[keakar]

wait what????

you had it at the mechanic and they did not test the engine or find the problem for you but they only ran a scan for fault codes??????????

this makes no sense at all, please explain why in the world they would not look into the problem and tell you whats wrong with it? at the very least were they able to replicate the problem at the shop? did you insist that they not try to fix it and just scan it?

and just to be clear, is this a problem you are having in the driveway or with the boat in the water when it does it?

[Suzukijosh]

The problem is in the water. I told them I wanted them to just scan it because I would rather troubleshoot it myself instead of paying someone else $90 a hour to diagnose something I will eventually fix. ( I've had a horrible past experience when I was a kid the shop charged $800 just to troubleshoot my car and all they eventually did was change plugs) plus I get to learn everything about the engine this way haha
Soon as I figure it out ill post what it is I case anyone else has this problem

[keakar]

The problem is in the water. I told them I wanted them to just scan it because I would rather troubleshoot it myself instead of paying someone else $90 a hour to diagnose something I will eventually fix. ( I've had a horrible past experience when I was a kid the shop charged $800 just to troubleshoot my car and all they eventually did was change plugs) plus I get to learn everything about the engine this way haha
Soon as I figure it out ill post what it is I case anyone else has this problem

ok, its your boat but I would have told them to look into it but stop if the labor went over $200, that way you don't have a big bill and you might be done with it already. learning is great and fixing your own is a special feeling of pride but sometimes its worth paying a mechanic just to tell you what the problem is, then go home and fix it yourself, that way you dont spend two weeks trying to figure out or more.

[Suzukijosh]

I just had something pop into my mind.(cant check it right now because im at work) When i bought the boat the top bushing that allows the shaft that turns to select forward and reverse in the lower unit was stuck solid. so i replaced it and noticed the locknuts for the throttle and shift adjustment linkages were loose like someone had adjusted them trying to figure out why it wont go into forward or reverse. So im wondering if they got them out of sinc with each other and its applying throttle before the neutral switch is depressed causing it to go into "limp home mode".... Do you think this could be a possibility?
In my mind the neutral switch should be depressed right before the throttle is engaged. I will check it first thing in the morning.
Or does it not matter when the neutral switch is depressed as long as it is depressed?
Thanks again for all the responses.

[keakar]

I just had something pop into my mind.(cant check it right now because im at work) When i bought the boat the top bushing that allows the shaft that turns to select forward and reverse in the lower unit was stuck solid. so i replaced it and noticed the locknuts for the throttle and shift adjustment linkages were loose like someone had adjusted them trying to figure out why it wont go into forward or reverse. So im wondering if they got them out of sinc with each other and its applying throttle before the neutral switch is depressed causing it to go into "limp home mode".... Do you think this could be a possibility?
In my mind the neutral switch should be depressed right before the throttle is engaged. I will check it first thing in the morning.
Or does it not matter when the neutral switch is depressed as long as it is depressed?
Thanks again for all the responses.

if I were you I would disconnect all that and try operating things manually to test.

me, im anal about such things so I would take it all out and reset everything where it should be (adjustments) then reinstall them and adjust "if necessary"

nothing worse then leaving things all out of whack just because it works. I find I need to have things done and set correctly or it bothers me.

on a side note they may be like that because they aren't the right cables to begin with, just sayin

[Suzukijosh]

I ended up bringing the boat to a different dealer and it is the ECU, He showed me with a different ECU that it runs fine when it is installed. Now i need to find a good used one they could get me one for $1,600 which is way more than i wanted to spend. if you know where i could find a used on please let me know. i will start a new thread to look for one thanks again everyone!

[islandflyr]

df115 hitting rev limiter at 3000rpms

check your neutral safety switch to see it properly functioning. I have had this issue before on my DF115

[Suzukijosh]

Hello islandflyr i have already changed out the Neutral switch to rule that out. the dealer happend to have a used ECU and everything worked when he put it on my engine. even the loud annoying buzzer/horn when you first turn the key on. my ECU wouldnt even do that. also they said the reason i wasnt getting any trouble codes was due to the part of the ECU that went out wasnt sending that info to the tach. i wish it wouldve been the neutral switch haha but it wasnt. thanks for the help though!

[Suzukijosh]

Just wanted to give everyone a update. My 2003 Sea Chaser (carolina skiff) with a DF-115 is now up and running strong. Its actually running better than i expected for it being heavy as it is, It will hit 47MPH with 2 people in it at 6,000 rpms. My problem was the ECU went out (previous owner) and i had to replace it i found a used one for it at Cheifs marine he's out of mississippi and he really hooked me up <half price of a new one. thanks again to everyone who took the time to help me out