DF175 flush

[Bloggsy]

I assume that the factory engine flush point is the screw out plug at the left hand front of the cowling? if this correct do you flush the motor running or not running?

[Moonlighter]

The screw out plug is correct. You can get a suitable fitting to screw in there and attach to your hose from any hardware or garden store.

DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WHEN FLUSHING USING THAT FLUSHING PORT!!!!!!!!

For saltwater use engines, if possible, the best procedure for flushing is to use dual feed earmuffs on the water intake on the lower gearbox with good water pressure from the hose, with the engine running for 10 minutes.

Then turn the engine off, and give it another 10 minutes on the flushing port mentioned above.

[Harper]

+2 with what Grant said. Muffs are best. Turn on the hose with enough volume and pressure to force water out around the edges of the muffs if possible. Once the engine is started, open the spigot further, if necessary to force water out from under the rubber muffs. Check for a good tell-tale stream. You should also have water running out of several holes on the bottom side of the cavitation plate in the front of the motor, and also shooting out of the holes just in front of the muffs that are covering the intakes. Run at least long enough that you know that the thermostat has opened. If you have a temperature gauge, run at least long enough for the temperature to stabilize for several minutes at around 150°. If you don't have a temperature gauge, then as Grant said, a minimum of ten minutes should ensure that the thermostat opened. It's not necessary, but you can also use Salt-Away or similar product if you wish, using their auto-mix flush system (used in-line on the hose used for flushing, and finish up with a rinse for a few minutes with the engine still running. Then follow up with the engine off flush through either the port side or the front flush port.

At least once a year, after doing your normal flush, remove your cowling and pull the 5 internal aluminum anodes and clean the white deposits off them with a stiff brush. I even unbolt the anodes from the anode cover to clean them. Keeping them clean from the white deposits will keep them working to protect the engine from electrolysis. They should appear pitted and eroded. Replace the anodes as you would any other anode, once they are 2/3 gone. Check the O-rings on the anode covers for integrity, and re-install, giving the cover a little turn as you push it into place.

[Bloggsy]

Thanks guys for the very helpful information!!