95 dt150 help please

[Solarman]

dt150, running issues

Ok, dk, we need to back up.
Go back to your TVs. Disconnect and check the resistance on the sensor again.
On the 20k scale what is the ohm reading for neutral, and what is the ohm reading for full throttle?
And you have an oil reset switch on the side of your motor by the tilt switch, notice, if you press it in does it click the first time you press it?
Get back and let us know.

[dkshooter]

TVS readings

Ok here are the results of the ohms on the g/r-b wire at neutral it reads .92 at full throttle the reading is 2.61 ohms the throttle plate is at about 60 degrees there is no noise on the reset button
thanks again

[Solarman]

TVs readings

What do you think the chances are that you could call up/ visit a Suzuki parts place and compare your TVS / readings with a new TVS?

[Solarman]

Dk, am going back to some other info too.

OK guys
here are the results of the tests I have taken I am currently waiting for my copy of the shop manual.
the ohm reading on the following
gear counter 227
pulser coils 230,228&229

charging coils (ohms) the flywheel is off
0,0,0

condenser coil 545 w/bl-w/r

tvs ohms
to tvs 4.37 ohms
to the ignition 1.45 ohms
with the ignition on the reading was
4.98 volts

the gauge,when the key is turned on shows only the limit light



I hope this makes some sense please let me know what other tests/questions I can answer to help

thanks

Ok, in the above you mentioned zero reading on your charging coils, any chance that is a mistake? It shouldn't matter that the flywheel was off, you should still get an ohms reading on your charging coils.
I am starting to wonder if it might be tied into your ecm to throw your motor into limp-mode?
My motor isn't wired like that, but maybe your motor is?

[dkshooter]

limp mode

Ok I checked the spark and I got no spark on #1,#3 and #5 is this limp mode? I removed the oil tank and jumpered the oil flow sensor and wired the oil level sensor up all the way and now I get a buzzer at the 8 second interval I am not sure what all this means but there is still no spark on the 13&5 help?

thanks

[Solarman]

why mess with the sensors??

Stop playing with the sensors, you might mess them up and have to replace them? The sensors if bad will set the monitor gauge flashing with problems, and set the alarms off. And it will put the motor in limp mode. So stop playing with them.
And if there is no spark at 1, 3, or 5. Then this is something you did that caused this? You had spark before, right??

[dkshooter]

had a spark before it went to the last "mechanic" but thought I should start from the beginning retested the coil again on the k20 scale I had 0.00 on all three yellow wires same on the 2000 scale y to ground were all 1
g-b/r .89 and w/r-w/bl was 521 on the 2000 scale I have concerns that the monitor/gauge is not working properly. could the coil cause the loss of power?
any ideas on what the buzzer sounding every 8 sec. is all about??
Thanks

[Solarman]

not sure, what buzzer is from?

If you jump, or short sensors, or remove items in system, you will cause this system to mess up.
This motor is integrated with all of these sensors and all the electrical components are tied to the ecm/brain/computer. EVERYTHING electrical is integrated on these motors, and you can't just jump/bypass anything and have it work properly.

Now, what do you want to do. And what truly has been done, and was this motor running recently, or, did it come back from the mechanics not running, and you're telling me all the things the mechanic did, and not the things you did?
I need to know, if I'm waisting my time here?

[dkshooter]

the whole story

Ok I have told this story several times I thought this thread was one of them he is the story of the motor I will try to keep it short! About 7 years ago the motor was running great and I was very happy. then in the spring the motor was running at WOT one day and it suddenly dropped to around 2500 rpms no alarms or lights I shut down and restarted it jumped right back up on plane and all was good this series of events became more frequent finally no response above 2500 under power in the 7 years I have had mechanics replace or clean the following I cannot remember what order these were done the high pressure fuel filter replaced, both low pressure fuel pumps rebuilt spark plugs replaced, high pressure fuel pump replaced, ignition control unit replaced. that was the last straw it was last year so I decided it was time for me to do something So over the winter I contacted Suzuki corporate they informed me the best they could offer me is a Retired guy that lives 1 1/2 hours from my house I called him he said no thanks So I am trying to fix it my self sorry for my frustration!! all I have done with this motor is test everything I can think of I really don't wont to waste your time or mine I just need help!!

[dkshooter]

I understand

all I would like from you Please! Is do I just junk this motor and take the loss????
again thank you for all the help!

[Solarman]

dt150 EFI, '95, running issues

Ok, was not aware of this history on your motor.
You must understand also, that to me every motor that is capable of running is salvageable.
In this forum it is not possible for me to put my hands on, or visually check anything. I rely on your hands and the testing you do. What the mechanics did, if they did it, I can't tell. For me to help you we have to work as a team, and I can't work on your problems if you go screwing around with other things (jumping sensors, removing parts trying to short out wires, or whatever). this motor can run if the basic engine is functional.

Now, when was this motor last started, and run, even if only idling? And I'm hopeful I can trust my eyes, ears & hands to get this all done.
If I can't trust these things, then your best direction is to drive this boat to your nearest Suzuki dealership and tell them to fix it.
I do not recommend scrapping the motor.

[dkshooter]

thank you for understanding. the motor has always run I starts easily a little missing it will open up to 5000 rpms in neutral. I do not recall if any of the mechanics told me that only 3 cylinders were firing though I believe that is why the ECM was replaced. I can and will preform all the tests you would like but I do not own a DVA. trust me I would take the boat to a Suzuki mechanic but I have been unable to locate 1 in less than a 3 hour drive!
thank you again

[Solarman]

'95, dt150, running issues.

Let's stop revving up over 3k, on muffs, or neutral. Make sure all you're jumpers, and bypasses are back the way they should be.

It stopped running at wot, bout 7 yrs ago. Off and on till just quit.
Now in the water the motor will get to what rpm, and them it bogs out, or does it just stop increasing RPMs without bogging? Or, does it start missing like on less than all cylinders? Skipping, running rough?

[dkshooter]

new start

I returned all the wiring back to original last weekend seems to idle a little rough till it warms-up. when in gear it advances to around 2000 rpms but no further no bogging or missing the throttle plate opens to about 60 degrees.

[Solarman]

'95, dt150, running issues

Ok. I need you to open the vst, and remove the needle valve, and seat. While the needle valve, seat and float are out hold the float bowl by hand in place and pump the fuel bulb several times. I'm looking for any trash on the back-side of the needle valve seat that might partially block fuel flow. After pumping the bulb, look at fuel in bowl for any trash too. While the bowl is off also look at the inline cone filter, that goes from the vst bowl to the high pressure pump. If you find any fragments of anything describe them to me (clear plastic is what I'm looking for, but anything else tell me.
Let me know.