95 dt150 help please

[Solarman]

dt 115, 140, 150 EFI's

I would check the timing coils and the gear counting coils, and magnets under the flywheel. If these items check then I'd go to through the fuel system on the motors.
The gauge if working should flash if there is a problem with sensors. If the timing coils or great counting coil is bad, the ECM will get the wrong signal, and it will be in limp mode.

[dkshooter]

results

OK guys
here are the results of the tests I have taken I am currently waiting for my copy of the shop manual.
the ohm reading on the following
gear counter 227
pulser coils 230,228&229

charging coils (ohms) the flywheel is off
0,0,0

condenser coil 545 w/bl-w/r

tvs ohms
to tvs 4.37 ohms
to the ignition 1.45 ohms
with the ignition on the reading was
4.98 volts

the gauge,when the key is turned on shows only the limit light



I hope this makes some sense please let me know what other tests/questions I can answer to help

thanks

[Solarman]

dt 150 running issues

The ohm readings for the
Gear counter coil 227 &
3 timing coils 230 / 228 / 229
These seem to be good readings.
The batt charging coils should not be 0's
Also, there appear to be 2 condenser charging coils in the parts diagram. One is your low condenser charging coil, the other should be the high condenser charging coil. maybe Legacy S. Can tell you which wires go to the low speed charging coil, and which wires go to the high speed coil. Each set of coils have 2 wires. The low and high speed coils should be near the front / starter area, they look different than the batt charge coils.
The condition of all of these coils is important too. If rusted out badly, or the mounting clamps loose/ rusted out then they may give good ohms readings, but could give false readings during running. I have had gear counting coils read good but be splitting from rust, actually falling apart. The gear counting coil has to be mounted a specific distance from the teeth (adjustable) of the flywheel (it counts each tooth as it passes). The timing coils are fixed mounts, if the clamps are good and screws are tight they're ok.
You're having problems with high speeds, so your low speed condenser is probably good. check the high speed coil.
If all is good, then check the low pressure fuel pump, there are a couple of small plastic check valves that cause a great number of problems.
And Legacy synthetics seems to have the manual and can give the wire colors, and proper distance for the gear counting coil.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

[newt5005]

Has any there been any evaluation on the prop?
Running well on muffs, no power when in the water (under load).
Just asking.

[dkshooter]

runs well up to around 2000 rpms in gear in the water but that's is all its got as I advance the throttle there is no response. I can get it above the magical 2000 rpm mark when it is not in gear

solarman
since I have no reading on the charging coils would that keep the motor from topping out? and what should the meter reading be?

[Solarman]

running issues dt150

DK, I don't believe the batt charging coils have anything to do with getting your engine over 2K rpms. Their purpose is charging the batt. If the batt was dying/ having to be charged all the time it might. What are the conditions of the other coils? Can you get the wiring diagram for your engine? Need to know the colors of the high & low speed coils. then you can test them. When will you get your manual?
Waiting to hear.

[dkshooter]

thanks for the reply and help
I have a digital copy of the manual now but it is very fuzzy I have pulled the flywheel so I could get the correct wire colors they are g-b/r and w/r-w/bl according to the manual they should read 62-92 and 385-575 mine reads 86 and 517 so I assume these are ok.
you said something about the low pressure fuel pumps and check valves I looked and the parts breakdown and it does not show these where are they located?
thanks again

[Solarman]

dt 150

The low pressure fuel pump is located on the side of the block just above the gas filter bowl on the same side, the parts page lists it as fuel pump. The common problem with this pump is the check valves coming apart and getting in the way of the needle valve in the vst where the float is. The check valves are under the diaphragms in the base next to the block. They do not show the check valves, and from my experience you can't buy replacement check valves. And unless something has changed, they are not offered in a rebuild kit.

[dkshooter]

Ok I will go and pull the fuel pumps right now, but .... does that mean I'm screwed if those check valves are fubared?

[dkshooter]

well... I pulled the low pressure fuel pumps I found what I think you are referring to as the check valves is it more like a diaphragm? there is 1 on both sides of the middle piece of the pump a little smaller than a dime? What I did find was a nest a mud dauber or something in the lower low pressure fuel pump I have no idea how this got there!!!! the real problem is that the river is above flood stage and I cannot get the boat to the river guess I will have to wait I do not have much hope that this was the problem because my luck is not that good, thanks for the help

[Solarman]

a nest in your fuel pump??

Have you had the gas lines removed for an extended period of time?? This is strange. Maybe you should clean out the vst, and filters? Never know what else has gotten through?

[dkshooter]

I have had it at several boat shops over the last few years so it is hard to tell what might be the source I will clean the vst and check the filter next but I don't think this was the original problem the river is finally dropping so maybe I can get the boat back in the water soon

[Solarman]

check valves

The check valves are the clear plastic wafers that should be under the thin rubber diaphragms.

[aquamort]

Just throwing it out there....has full throttle been checked with your linkages etc?

Also i think i asked a long time ago..when it doesnt go past 2000rpm is it missing and farting or just bogging down?

[dkshooter]

went thru the vst looked clean but I cleaned it anyway a little stuff on the outlet screen but other than that clean the check valves are all intact and look good.
as for the top end performance when I advance the throttle it acts normally to around 2000 rpms then there is just no change no missing,surging or anything maybe a gas smell like it is flooding but Im not sure