oil light and buzzer

[bigisland]

I started up my motors today at home and the oil light and buzzer started beeping on one motor.These are 2003 df 70's.They have been running just fine and I start them up about every couple weeks.According to the manual it sounds like its the oil change reminder system with the buzzer beeping twice about every 5 seconds and the oil lamp blinking steady.I tried the cancellation procedure from the manual (turn the key on ,pull out the emergency stop switch plate,pull the emergency stop switch knob 3 times within 10 sec. and a short beep sounds that supposed to mean the cancellation was successful.Then turn on the key and install the switch plate in its original positon.After doing that the oil light and buzzer still comes on.I have tried this procedure a couple of times.Any ideas on what to check?

[boats.net]

Low oil pressure will active oil light, 1.5 sec beeps on buzzer and reduce rpm's to 3000. Check oil level may need to change oil and filter.

[bigisland]

Forgot to mention that the check engine light is giving a ctp switch code.Also the enging does rev over 3000 and oil is o.k. but noticed when idle gives two beeps every 5 sec. and running give just one beep every five sec. with the oil light blinking steady.

[bigisland]

I swapped out the ecms. The engine service light and beeps cannot clear on that ecm but it does not give the ctp code on the other engine.I tested the ctp switch according to the manual and it seems to be good.I cannot fined anything in the manual about a single beep and two blinks every five seconds which supposed to be the ctp switch.Any ideas?

[boats.net]

If the check engine light is blinking cout the number of blinks, a pause then another set of blinks and that tells you code number.

[bigisland]

like I mentioned I am getting a 2 blink pause 2 blink code on the check engine light with one beep on the buzzer.According to the manual this is a ctp code.I tested the ctp for continuity according to the manual and it tests out O.K.Cannot finds anything in the manual about a one beep.Anyone one had this problem before and any ideas what to check next?

[boats.net]

Test MAP sensor to see if within specs.

[bigisland]

I tried swapping out the map sensor with the other motor and still no change with the same 2-2 code and one beep....anymore idea?

[Harper]

What is the "CTP?" My manual indicates that a 2-2 code is a problem with the intake air system, i.e., throttle position sensor out of spec, intake air temperature sensor problem, a leak between the manifold and the head (bad gasket, loosened manifold bolts, or a cracked manifold, etc.) Granted, mine is a DF150/175 manual, but Suzuki's fault codes are all standardized, as far as I know.

[artdf175]

Mike
Sorry to say for 40-140 2-2 code is CTP
Closed throttle position switch
Check terminal voltage - terminal "24" 2001 models and later
NO - CTP switch failure
If ok possible cause ECM failure
Or wire continuity/connection failure
Art...
The 150 and larger use a TPS

[Harper]

Thanks Art. That explains that! But, curious..... does the diagnosis of the CTP code 2-2 include anything other then the switch itself? Often the diagnosis involves eliminating several sources as possible causes of the fault code, even though it is triggered by one component, which in this case would be the CTP. In other words, could a manifold leak or some similar situation cause a higher idle RPM, or a lower vacuum signal to the MAP sensor than the ECM expects to see at closed throttle, thereby triggering a CTP fault code? See what I mean?

[artdf175]

From following the schematic In this case it appears to be either the switch failed or a wiring failure

[bigisland]

I have checked continuity on terminal 24 ...o.k and also swapped ecm's with other motor as stated in previous thread and same results any more ideas is greatly appreciated

[artdf175]

I am curious about the code that it is throwing off
the one beep ...
my boat does not have the Suzuki guage on the dash.. so in that case it displays a little differently..
but.. the one beep? when my motor threw me a code over the weekend.. it annouces it with the number of beeps (yes the one indiciator on the dash also blinks)
my motor threw a 5-2 code on me the other day.. then cleared itself.. but the code comes with the number of beeps being sounded from the warning buzzer..
so the question is - would not the buzzer also be announcing the code? 2 beeps-short pause-2 beeps ---longer pause -- then repeats itself????

Art...........


Mike.. I really didn't get a chance to answer your question more fully
The schmatic in this case for the CTS switch does not appear to be tied to other sensors.. the switch is in an always on mode.. or it is an ECM or wiring problem
Since bigisland has the second motor and swithch out the ECM to no avail.. it is either the switch gone bad or an evil hard to find intermitant wiring malfunction..

bigland -- since you do have 2 motors to work with... how difficult would it be to interchange the CTS switch itself from one motor to the other? I have not looked in the book far enough to see where the pysical location of it is and how hard it might be to get to .. the switch could be frozen in one position -corrision or such- it might be possible that the electric side is indicating ok but mechaniclaly is actually bad.. just a thought anyway.
Art

[Harper]

Mike.. I really didn't get a chance to answer your question more fully
The schmatic in this case for the CTP switch does not appear to be tied to other sensors.. the switch is in an always on mode.. or it is an ECM or wiring problem
Since bigisland has the second motor and swithch out the ECM to no avail.. it is either the switch gone bad or an evil hard to find intermitant wiring malfunction.. Art

I guess you didn't see what I mean. I'll try again. The CTP would not have to be tied to any other sensors. An intake manifold leak would throw off readings on the MAP sensor, due to an incorrect closed throttle vacuum reading, and would also cause a faster idle than what the ECM would expect at closed throttle, due to air getting into the manifold via some route other than through the throttle body, and so throw a CTP code. That's why there are usually more than one reason for the code from any given sensor, and more than one thing to have to check when you are trying to diagnose the problem, even when the fault code shows one sensor giving incorrect readings. The ECM gets a signal from the CTP that the throttle plate is closed. Yet the idle speed tells the ECM that the throttle can't be closed, because the idle isn't where quite where it should be, and the vacuum being read by the MAP sensor also indicates that the throttle can't be completely closed, else the vacuum would be higher than it is. The ECM can't tell you why these things are happening, only that the CTP must be wrong, because everything points to the throttle being slightly open. So as far as the ECM is concerned, the CTP is at fault. It takes someone with a brain to think through the other possibilities for these discrepancies between idle speed, manifold vacuum, and throttle position.

Bigisland has so far made a number of electrical checks on the CTP switch and wiring, has swapped out the MAP sensor and the ECM, and still has the problem. What hasn't he checked yet? Ummm..... manifold integrity, maybe?

Now, see what I mean?