Suzuki (Lowrance) SMIS Multifunction Gauge

[Harper]

For any and all of you out there who have experience with the subject gauge, have you had any problems with a "check sum error" message? Mine is experiencing this problem every few hours of operation, and in yesterday's case twice within 15 minutes of operation. When this happens, the gauge no longer works until you go through the process of entirely reconfiguring the gauge to your motor, and your boat (i.e., how many motors on the boat, how many fuel tanks, total fuel capacity, how fuel usage is obtained, etc.), and reconfiguring exactly what you want the gauge to monitor.

This is rendering the gauge virtually useless, and since the amount of fuel the gauge thinks you've used vs. the actual amount used is lost in this error, calibrating fuel flow has been impossible, so it remains way out of whack.

Fortunately, when the gauge experiences a "check sum error," (always happens at startup) it does not wipe out the calibration already done to the engine adaptor, so what fuel flow calibration I have already done (though still not quite right) is still the flow that the gauge "sees" once I reconfigure it.

In any case, yesterday I wrote to Lowrance, explaining the problem and asking for their assistance in the matter. The gauge is only six months old, so hopefully they will have some remedy.

[Harper]

Lowrance has said that the gauge is bad, needs to be replaced. Of course, although it is made by Lowrance, it is Suzuki branded, so I need to do that through my Suzuki dealer. It was purchased six months ago, so should be under warranty.

[Harper]

Kudos to George Jansen and Browns Point Marine. He has sent me an RMA number and will replace the SMIS Multifunction Gauge that I purchased from him six months ago.

[Chech789]

I am having the same issue with mine. I have a suzuki 300 I just got mounted a month or so ago. Have about 38 hours. Only happen once last time I was out. Ran fine all day came home to wash it down on hose and it did it at start up. After reconfigure it hasn't happened but I haven't been out.

I called my dealer and they said it could be because if the "white wire" need to be connected directly to the battery. I checked it and it is on the battery. My voltage was fine all day at 14v running and around. 12.4 at rest.

Now I'm wondering if I have a defective gauges. I have 2.

I really not sure if it's the battery or what. I also really don't like that I have this wire hooked up straight to battery. I have 3 battery's and just created a single point of failure. I think I'm going to move it to the common on my switch. It's right next to the battery.

Anyways just wanted to share my experience. Hope mine stays away.

[Harper]

I seriously doubt that it would have anything to do with the white wire. I've been all through that white wire scenario, long ago, long before I installed the gauge. It was answers such as you got from your dealer that caused me to go directly to Lowrance first. They made the gauge, and make the same gauge for Mercury and Evinrude, so I knew that they would know a lot more about the gauge than any Suzuki dealer. Once I had the verdict from Lowrance that the gauge was bad, there was no way that Suzuki could dispute it.

[Chech789]

I agree. Does not seem to be this white wire. How did u can contact lowarance about the problem? Maybe if my issue happens again I will contact them.

Just curious how you have your white wire hooked up? Straight to battery? Common on switch? Or maybe to the hot leg on the switch?

To me the common on switch makes the most sense.

Thanks.

[Harper]

White wire should go directly to the starting battery. It is not "hot" as the engine sees it until you turn the ignition key on, because it goes directly from the battery to the ECM power relay to provide power to the ECM. So there is no power draw on the white wire until the power relay is activated by turning the key on. The only purpose of the white wire is to give the ECM its own power source independent of the rest of the motor, ensuring that there is no voltage drop in the ECM power source due to other loads on the motor. Mine is actually connected to a positive buss bar in the transom, since the batteries are mounted under the console, instead of near the stern as in many boats. That way the heavy 1-0 battery cable goes the 10 feet or so to the buss bar, then all power cables to the motor are connected there, including the white wire.

[Chech789]

Thanks. That make sense. I guess maybe my problem is I have 3 battery's but the dealer connected them all to a 1,2 1&2 switch. So I don't have a "starting" and "house" I have whatever the switch is on. So I have the potential of running down the battery that the white wire is on, leaving me dead in the water I think.

Maybe I should change this.


How did u go about contacting Lowrance about the issue?

Thanks.

[Harper]

You shouldn't have to move the white wire, regardless which battery it's connected to, since as I said, it is not connected to anything until the ECM power relay is activated by turning on the ignition key. No reason why it would cause any battery drain with the key off. Usually, the white wire only effects starting or running issues with the motor, due to the ECM's extreme sensitivity to any voltage fluctuations.

I got to Lowrance via their website, lowrance.com, and at the bottom of the home page clicking on "contact us" and used their contact form to get with customer support.

[Chech789]

Thank ill contact them if it happens again.

Unless I dont understand somthing to me it seems like I can have problems with my setup.

What happens if I am out drift fishing listening to the radio for a while. My switch is on to the battery that has the white wire connected. I forgot to switch back and forth and run down the battery. I am now dead in the water right?

It really seems like it needs to be on the common on the switch so if I do run down the battery I can switch to my other bank and keep on going. Other wise I would have to get the tools out and change the white wire to another battery. Doing this in 6ft seas would really suck

Sorry if Im wrong just trying to see how someone els is handling this issue.

Thanks!!!

[Harper]

Okay, I understand what you mean now. Yes, run it from the BATTERY switch common. I thought you were referring to connecting it to the switched terminal on your ignition switch. In effect, mine is wired to the equivalent of the common on your battery switch, since the only cable that goes to that positive buss in the transom of my boat is whichever battery is connected to the motor at the time. My original battery switch was like yours, and I replaced it with a Blue Sea switch that turns on both batteries in one position, with one for the motor and one for the house. The circuits are separate unless I put it on "combine batteries" which parallels the batteries for starting if needed. I have the dual battery isolator lead for the motor to charge both batteries.

[Chech789]

Do you know which switch that is? (The Blue sea switch you have). I sounds like this is what I need.

One house bank, One starting bank. If I run down my starter I can flip the switch to somthing els and basically join all the banks to get going.

I also have the dual battery isolator lead.

Thanks again for the help. Going to have to move some wires around this weekend!

[Harper]

I took out the Perko switch that came in the boat and put in the Blue Sea 5511e. e-Series Dual Circuit Plus™ Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems

[Moonlighter]

The white wire on my DF115 is attached to the pos terminal for the starting battery on my BEP switch.

Mine is the BEP 3 way cluster with VSR, dual battery system that allows me to connect both should the starting battery fail. Works fine that way.