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No power at the helm, remote trim not working, no power to Key switch

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  • artdf175
    replied
    Relays. There are two -exactly the same interchange and test
    However I doubt that is your problem
    From battery there are two leads off positive side. One to magnetic switch on starter motor -heavy wire maybe size 10 - from same terminal 2nd wire feeds back to 30A fuse
    2nd wire from battery feeds through a 15A fuse to ignition switch
    I believe with my boat this is a fuse under dash that besides feeding ignition switch powers everything else at the front end. This is the power source you need to find. As I mentioned it could be where this wire connects. It could be a bad ground wire as well but less likely
    Positive wire off battery switch - to dash - check splice carefully my splice is somewhat exposed to the elements connection was held together with insulation-wire was gone in the center - in my book #1 place to start looking
    Good luck
    Last edited by artdf175; 10-19-2016, 12:09 PM.

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  • artdf175
    replied
    I don't have the schematic handy
    however.. you should have power to the relay as you describe..
    except that the relay should require a signal to activate it and put power out the other side.

    What you describe is exactly what problem I was having..
    the broken connection is between the battery switch and the front power lead to the helm where a lot of things happen
    check under the dash where the power source feeds the panel.. could be the female end connection has come loose
    could be a bad in-line splice..
    let me know what you find
    thanks art

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  • pelermon
    replied
    Originally posted by Steve G View Post
    Having much the same problem's with a friends boat [80 HP Suzuki] Have been advised to change relay in fuse box on side of engine [ relay no 156700-2480] , Have done this and set motor running ,It did not stop in that time of 45 minutes . This relay has WHITE wires going to it , so maybe its part of this problem !! . Can any one send me a copy of wiring diagram for this area around the fuse box as we would like to put some kind of test on the old relay . Regards Steve ... In Western Australia ....
    hmmm I am have the same problem.
    after sitting for six months -- no power - new batterys
    I have Power at engine tilt.
    No power anywhere else.
    None to the key or gauges.
    It may flicker for a split second, after turning the key, -- then nothing.
    Testing - I have power from the battery all the way to the RELAY relay #156700-2480 -- white going in is hot - nothing going out.

    David
    Last edited by pelermon; 03-26-2014, 08:57 AM.

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  • nbh00d
    replied
    Sorry for the late reply has been busy with work and boat is not at my home. I have taken it to a mechanic and have skinned back to good cooper by removing 30cm of wire. However, wires checked by the mechanic and still same issue. He suggested me to go to suzuki spe******t and diagnosis the ECU module. I will book for a session with suzuki and see what they say. Hopefully it doesn't cost me an arm and leg. I have not been in the water for few weeks and it is killing me.

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  • gdubroc
    replied
    nbh00d, did you skin the wires back to good copper? I had to cut over an inch off to get a good connection. At first I cut the wires and skinned 1/4", connected them and still nothing, then skinned back to bright clean copper and it has worked since.

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  • artdf175
    replied
    So where you reconnected wires. Can only suggest a simple volt meter to see where power fails
    Do you have a battery switch that can power off just about everything?
    There should be a main wire out the back--from memory a red wire. 6 or 9 inches long -should splice to white
    Can take a straight pin to push through the wire to attach volt meter probe to
    Go from battery out until you find the break in the circuit

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  • nbh00d
    replied
    No good guys... I thought I got it when I spotted a white battery cable was corroded but after rewiring it i still receiving no motor start at the helm. I have rewired all the connectors but now even lost power for trim at the helm. I double checked to make sure I wired the correct wires.

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  • gdubroc
    replied
    Steve G, try this. The white wire starts at the battery.
    Attached Files

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  • Steve G
    replied
    Hi gdubroc , Thanks for the reply ,We did swap the relay from another harness , problem was it was in one of its "" I'll start this time thanks moods"" but fired up and ran for the 45 minutes while we replaced some lights on the front of the pontoon , Was looking for wiring diagram to see where power in and power out were on that relay , Don't want to risk powering the wrong terminal !.
    Thanks for your time ,Regards Steve...............

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  • gdubroc
    replied
    Steve, the white wire actually feeds through that relay from the helm if I remember correctly. When I started troubleshooting the problem, I received some bad information that the engine fed the helm and looked at those relays (there are two) and since they are electronic, they are hard to test. I found something on the net that showed how to test them but I had already figured out that the source of the problem was elsewhere and didn't save the info. If you think you have a relay problem, you could swap it for the other one. I don't have the wiring diagram with me; it is on the other computer but you can easily trace the white wire from the harness, through the fuse and through the relay.

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  • Steve G
    replied
    power cutting off & on

    Having much the same problem's with a friends boat [80 HP Suzuki] Have been advised to change relay in fuse box on side of engine [ relay no 156700-2480] , Have done this and set motor running ,It did not stop in that time of 45 minutes . This relay has WHITE wires going to it , so maybe its part of this problem !! . Can any one send me a copy of wiring diagram for this area around the fuse box as we would like to put some kind of test on the old relay . Regards Steve ... In Western Australia ....

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  • nbh00d
    replied
    Thanks guy for making it as simple as possible for me to understand. This weekend is going to windy so perfect time for me to stay home and do some repair work.

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  • gdubroc
    replied
    artdf175, we are saying the same thing but nbh00d said he wasn't mechanically inclined so I tried to simply it without him having to test anything. Your method is more technically correct but I figured he could at least pull the harness into the helm and check the connection. If that doesn't work, he may have to get some help to do what you suggested.

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  • artdf175
    replied
    Gdubroc
    I think we are basically saying the same thing..
    the power lead from the battery to the helm
    if you are not getting any power to the helm.-gages etc.. . then the break is between the battery and helm.. my case...
    if you are getting power to the gages and nothing to the motor.. the break is between at the split or between the split that you describe and the motor..

    nbhood -- I am sure the power loss is not at the motor..
    if you have no power to gages at helm.. start as I described at the battery switch.. follow that wire to the helm .. and check all the inline splices..
    for what it's worth..

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  • gdubroc
    replied
    Your pictures were taken from so close, it is hard to tell but in your third picture, that large connector should be the main connector that connects the cable that runs to the helm with the engine and (if that is the case) your white wire is in that harness (you should be able to see a white wire going through the connector). On my boat, there is only one harness that comes out of the engine and goes to the helm. The break is somewhere along that harness that runs from the engine to the helm and probably closer to the helm. On the engine side, that cable leaves the engine as one large cable, goes under the deck and (on mine) exits as two cables under the helm. The spice that is corroded is where the large cable splits into the two smaller cables. On my boat, there was 6 - 8' of extra cable by the motor under the hatch and no slack at the helm, so I pulled roughly 4' into the helm and found the splice. On my boat, this wasn't an easy task because all of the other harnesses were twisted around this one so it actuall took a couple of hours to finese it through. Once you have that pulled into the helm, you can follow my original post and repair the splice.

    Hope this helps.

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